Don't cut springs. these suspensions rely on stock springs to set the camber as there are no ball joints to correct it. You will need to rebend your I beams if you cut the springs or else get some djm drop beams. That are corrected to give the lowered stance and keep the right camber for a good rice handling.

 

Thank's for the pictures ultranger.you did a great job on your truck.I hope mine turns out like that. I want to get the front end down a 1'' or so if I can

 

Thanks. I realize the suspension components are something that mostly won't be seen and will eventually get dirty and, I could have gotten them installed a lot quicker if I hadn't spent as much time cleaning and painting them.

However, I guess my nature just won't let me do that. I try to give as much attention to detail of the things that don't show as the things that do.

You MAY be able to get away with a 1 " drop but, you won't be able to make a significant drop just by cutting the coils. It will start causing camber angle problems with the wheels when you start cutting the coil springs.

The only good way to lower the truck is with drop I-beams or by installing a completely different front suspension --such as installing a 2003-2011 Crown Victoria front suspension assembly.

 

Chances are if you have old springs they already gave you some drop like all springs do over time. Getting another inch out of them might give you camber issues. I haven't really seen anyone cut there stock springs get it realigned and post there results. Curious myself how much of a drop you can get with stock springs before camber issues start. Anyone test this yet to find out?

 

Has anyone here cut the front coil springs to drop the front end (PICTURES)

 

We are all trying to steer you away from cutting springs. Why do you want to do it so badly? You've been told that not only will it give you bad ride quality but that it will completely mess with your alignment due to the I-beam suspension design. We are not saying this to hear ourselves speak. We are saying this to stop you from making a mistake.

 

Many years ago, I lowered the upper control arm pivot mounting points of my '68 Mustang by 1" (Shelby/Arning drop) and, I removed 3/4ths of a coil from the front springs. This made a dramatic improvement to the Mustang's ability to go around tight turns because it slightly lowered the center of gravity of the car and reduced the tendency for understeer (where the front of a vehicle tries to plow through a turn).

Unfortunatley, with the stock front suspension components of a '67-'72 pickup ('73-'79 as well), there are no upper or lower suspension control arms. You have an I-beam on the lower end and a coil spring at the upper end. The coil springs height determines the camber angle of the front wheels. At standard spring height, the wheels will be perpendicular to the pavement.

As you start shortening the coil springs height, you begin introducing negative camber (tops of the wheels lean inward, from a perpendicular line). This moves the contact patch of the tires tread from being distributed across the entire tread to being concentrated on the inboard edges of the tires tread. It's easy to see that this would cause accelerated wear on the tires, as well as causing steering issues while trying to drive in a straight line.

With negative camber, the wheels will be trying to push towards each other. This is ok as long as both tires have equal traction. However, once one tire has less traction than the other, there's no opposition force to balance out the two. The tire with the greater traction will immediately force the front of the vehicle towards the tire with the least amount of traction (this would be 'darting') and causes sudden, unwanted changes in steering direction.

http://yospeed.com/wp-content/upload...n-negative.jpg

There are right ways to accomplish certain things and there are wrong ways. Cutting the coils on an I-beam suspension is not a good approach to lower the vehicle. --lowering I-beams or the Crown Vic swap are the correct methods to lower the truck, without adverse steering or handling affects.

 

I dunno. I'm just an engineer. But my two cents - cutting springs spells trouble. The twin I Beam is basically two arms swinging the radius of a circle. By design, the spring and shock assembly puts your wheel perpendicular to the road. Cut the spring and your camber will definitely will suffer. You'll be buying tires every time you turn around.
A more modern IFS system moves the wheel in a more vertical and perpendicular to the road motion.
Long and short, if you want to drop the front end, you either need to offset your spindles higher, or find a new IFS suspension to put under the truck.

 

I thank everyone here for what you think and say that's the reason I want to know what you think.This is where I saw You could cut the spring - http/www.fordification.com/tech/lowering.htm

 

I think I might have found what I want----CROWN Suspension-Made in USA-Lifetime Warranty---2'' front suspension Lowing Spring Drop Coil Kit #353420----$130.00---65-72 FORD F100

 

You will have to have the beams bent to correct negative camber issues.

 

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Do it once do it right DJM drop beams.

 

I know I don't think that will be to hard to do.My son works on big trucks for a living the man that lines all his 18 wheeler said it's a pie job for him.He bents beams all day long.Its hard to find a front end man that lines car----that will do anything to these trucks-Go to a big truck shop

 

They aren't difficult to bend with the correct equipment.
Your suspension travel will be reduced.