I got it to start, I started pulling all the fuses under the hood one by one and a 30 amp for the ignition system, instument cluster, pcm, absrelay was
blown, I have never had this fuse blow before and I guess this fuse doesnt
let the fuel pump operate either, although there is a separate fuse just for the fuel pump, but that one was good.
The only thing I can think of that blew this fuse is the passenger side electric seat, While I was trying to pull the engine cover I went to move the seat back and It did not move, back or foward and It sounded like the motor was straining.
What is odd is that this fuse is for the instrument cluster also, but it was still working while I was cranking the engine. I am not sure how the fuse blew, maybe I will go buy a pack of them, hit the button for the seat again and see if it blows....
I found a severely cracked vacumn line, So I taped it up as good as i could and will replace it when I can, I also found another broken plastic line going to some kind of sensor maybe?

 

Yea, that's odd, I've never seen a 30amp fuse blow either.

Hope it was just the power seat problem, cause blowing a 30amp fuse would be a big draw, or a short somewhere.

So, this broken plastic line you found, was it "Red" in color??

Did it go to an item like this -

If so, that's your fuel pressure regulator.
With that not hooked up to vacuum, would cause problems with your engine running and fuel delivery.

 

I am going to disconnect the passenger side electric seat controls.

Thats kinda of what the small plastic tube was hooked up to, Its similar but not exactly the same and the tube was either yellow or light green under the engine cover. I taped it up with electrical tape, lol.
I took a pic of it but cant get it off my phone,
The larger rubber hose I taped up, I have no idea what it was hooked up to, it just came up from below and went up into the engine compartment.
But... After I replaced the blown fuse I immediately went to buy backup fuses and after taping up that rotted rubber hose under the engine cover, The van no longer wants to stall when I am stopped and in drive, its like knight and day, so I drove it pretty fast and hit the brakes really good, without skidding and it doesnt stall anymore like it would if I came to a stop really fast. But, it still has a bad bucking, when I accelerate, It really does feel like the transmission.
Thanks.

 

Transmissions don't buck.



Fix the engine.

 

I didnt get any (engine related) error codes from the odb computer neither did the mechanic I had look at it. I guess i will have to take it to someone else.

Maybe I am not describing what it is doing correctly.

When I am driving at a steady pace it feels like its dropping out of gear, then slamming back into gear causeing the van to want to stop but then quicky keep moving, But it happens very fast.if that makes any sense.. Its kind of hard to explain. It does not do it on the freeway when I am going fast.
Would crossed spark plug wires cause that? Or would the van just not run at all?
Thanks.

 

What about clogged fuel injectors?
The van is old and no service has been done on the fuel injectors, would that cause the type of thing I am describing, or at least trying to describe

 

The large hose you "taped" up, is the fuel vapor hose from the vapor canister, to the throttle body, Again, another vacuum hose.

If you "taped" up a yellow or green plastic line, those lines come from the vacuum reserve canister (behind the right foot well on the outside of the frame) and control the EGR valve switchs.

As I wrote before, you really need to get all the vacuum lines repaired/replaced.

OBD I generally will not show up on a scan for vacuum leaks.

One thing you didn't post, was the mileage on this van?
That will help with some of your questions.

A good mechanic should find vacuum leaks, rotted hoses, but some are so busy, they just want to do your job, get you out of the shop, and move on to the next job.
That's why most of us on here do our own work, we give these older van the TLC they deserve

Cross firing on the 351W, check wires 1&3 and 6&5 that there apart, not touching.

Your stumble could be vacuum leak, fuel delivery (as posted, check your fuel pressure) mis-fire. EGR problem. Other words, many causes.

Take one thing at a time, vacuum leaks fixed, then move on the the next problem, like you fixed that vapor line, and it ran fine.
Bouncing all over on many problems at once, will not solve your problems.

 

It has Two Hundred and six thousand miles on it.
Thanks.

 

They do when the PSOM in the speedo cluster goes out. Really Screws the pooch when it comes to drivability.

 

The electric seat runs off a different fuse, unless you're talking about the main fuse box with the big fuses in it in the engine compartment. Then it may be supplying the power to the fuse box inside the van where the seat fuses are.

 

You can get either a misfire(s) or a cylinder running rich with old dirty injectors. They're somewhat easy to clean, once you pull em. All you need is a battery charger an injector pigtail and a couple cans of spray carb cleaner then blow em out with an air compressor. That old, you'll need a set of new o rings to reinstall em.

 

Yea, it was one of the fuses in the box in the engine compartment, Odd that the fuse that blew has nothing to do with the electric seats.
I think I should do something with the injectors anyway, just because they are the original ones and no service has ever been done on them.

Today on the way to work it had the same obvious miss but I also noticed that when it does, just at the time it misses, the electrical gauge dips negative then returns to its normal state, But it doesnt do that all the time.


Thanks.

 

You've got a short in it somewhere. Trouble will be figuring out where, that kind of short could be anywhere, not just the engine harness.

 

If it is a short affecting the engine idle wouldnt that mean that it has something to do with the spark plugs, cap, rotor or some other ignition/spark producing part?
I have already had the cap, plugs and wires changed.
The mechanic that replaced them said he did a smoke test, but he did not, because he would have seen the rotted vaccumn hose I taped up, it was very obvious as soon as I removed the engine cover.

 

If it's causing a visible fluctuation in the volt meter, that could be something other than the engine ignition system causing the ignition to misfire due to low voltage. Or it could be in the engine harness too. You'll just have to begin the hunt and hope it's a short one, something obvious and easy to spot causing the short