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El cheapo paint job, close up pic shows imperfections (fish eyes, etc). What else on this truck was done on the cheap?

 

OH, OH, Pictures show enough to set the red flags for me. Considering the address is Charleston, on the coast, the pictures show what I've seen too many times.. Vehicles rust from the top due to the salt air bath. You won't know how bad it is till you look and feel but please use extreme caution. What do the bottoms of the doors and floorboards look like? Really don't know that I would drive six hours to look at it.

 

Bummer. I better request more pictures. The bottoms of the doors and rocker panels look alright in the ebay/craigslist pictures but maybe I should get some close ups.

 

First, welcome to the forum! In my opinion, pass on this one. Visible rust is usually the proverbial tip of the iceberg. Tackling this sort of rust usually means complete disassembly and taking the body down to bare metal. It would be better to find one needing some kind of work but with a solid body. Just my 2c, and good luck no matter what you decide.

 

Thanks for the welcome Horizonblue. What you say makes sense. I'm much more comfortable with mechanical work rather than body work. I'd like to find one I can drive as I improve upon it.

 

Is it realistic to think I'll find one rust free at this price range (under $8000)?

 

Yes. Or at least much better than that one. But you have to realize we must shop on a national market to find what we want with these trucks.

 

Just from looking at the pictures, this has a LOT of rust in difficult to repair areas covered with a cheap paint job. if these areas are this bad, I'd be willing to bet there is a lot more hidden rust. By the time these cabs rust around the windshield the lower sections are far gone. He knows what it is worth and it's much less than his asking price IMHO. FYI: Body work and rust repair is the most difficult and expensive part of building one of these trucks. My advice is always buy the most complete and solid metal work you can find. That usually requires going to the arid SW US for the project start. Even the cost of having a truck shipped clear across the country (~1K to 1.5K) is cheaper than just the cost of the rust repair panels that are available, and you are still will need to hand fab a lot that are not available like the roof and windshield surround and most of the hidden internal structure. I went all the way to NM from NC but my truck does not have a single external rust spot. (And I know how to fab repair panels and do rust repair/body work.)
The mechanical work is cheap and easy in comparison, especially if you aren't going to do heavy mods. Go west young man!
Rust free rollers (complete, engine and transmission removed or not running) are available in the 3-6K range, stock drivers (need paint, interior but running and licensed) in the 6-10K range.
Whatever or wherever you buy, be sure it includes a clear transferable title that matches the factory serial # stamped in the frame or else walk away.

 

I have considered expanding my search but I have kept it close enough that I could see the vehicle in person before committing. Feel free to give me a heads up if you guys see what I'm looking for!

 

You guys are awesome. I am very glad I decided to join the forum and start asking questions before proceeding any further. Thank you.

 

Besides craigslist and ebay what are some others good sources?

 

What I'm looking for is one that is close to original or that j can get that way. All I intend to do is upgrade the brakes to disc, get the drive train as dependable as possible, install seat belts, upgrade the rear end and maybe lower it a little. I'm not trying to build a beauty queen or a street rod. Just a decent looking driver.

 

Welcome to FTE!! That truck looks a little rough around the edges. I bought my '51 F1 and the body was all done (the previous owner did all the body work and painted it) but mechanically it was a mess. I'm much more comfortable with the mechanical work and wiring than the body work and paint. Take your time and look at as many trucks in person (as possible) because it's really hard to buy something based on a bunch of photos.

Wally

 

As you search, don't be shy about asking for more local members to look at a truck you uncovered. At heart, we are enablers. Use us.

 

That rust under the drip rail concerns me!! That could be a whole can of worms, it's really a tough area to repair correctly , that hood is gonna need a cut out and replace as well, I'm sure the cab corners are ( or were) as bad, I think 8 grand is on the high side for that. If you like it make an offer, if not .....no worries ford made a bazillion of those trucks.