washer fluid 1989 3.0 shorty
#1
washer fluid 1989 3.0 shorty
HI All, 1989 Shorty - 3.0
problem with washer fluid - the motor seems to work, but nothing comes out of the tubes...
I know the motor works, cuz there is water all over the engine compartment (near the battery) and down... soaked there...
so, my guess is that the rubber has come off the pump? where is the pump first off, and second, how do I get to all that? - just remove the cowl?
any diagrams or photos would be great!
Thanks
problem with washer fluid - the motor seems to work, but nothing comes out of the tubes...
I know the motor works, cuz there is water all over the engine compartment (near the battery) and down... soaked there...
so, my guess is that the rubber has come off the pump? where is the pump first off, and second, how do I get to all that? - just remove the cowl?
any diagrams or photos would be great!
Thanks
#2
Sounds like a clogged jet or a hose that has come off/broken/cracked.
First, pull the battery and battery tray out. The washer fluid tank is part of the overflow tank, a one piece design. Once you get the battery out of the way you can see the motor on the bottom (barely) and the hose.
Start from there and work your way to the jets. The only way to get to the jets is to pull the windshield cowl.
Actually, the Jets are actaully part of the cowl, so if you need new jets, the cowl needs replace.
First, pull the battery and battery tray out. The washer fluid tank is part of the overflow tank, a one piece design. Once you get the battery out of the way you can see the motor on the bottom (barely) and the hose.
Start from there and work your way to the jets. The only way to get to the jets is to pull the windshield cowl.
Actually, the Jets are actaully part of the cowl, so if you need new jets, the cowl needs replace.
#3
If the sprayer jets are plugged, blow them out with compressed air. Take the hoses off first or the compressed air will.
The hoses often plug from algae bugs dirt growing in the water tank and hoses. Will cause the hoses to blow off from pump pressure. Also plugs the jets.
Most of the commercial washer fluids contain alcohol of one form or another. There are alcohol loving algae bacteria that go grow crazy on the booze fluids.
Use one of the low cost liquid dish soaps, add 3>4 tablespoons to each tank refill
Far easier on your van paint, pump and not a bug feast.
The hoses often plug from algae bugs dirt growing in the water tank and hoses. Will cause the hoses to blow off from pump pressure. Also plugs the jets.
Most of the commercial washer fluids contain alcohol of one form or another. There are alcohol loving algae bacteria that go grow crazy on the booze fluids.
Use one of the low cost liquid dish soaps, add 3>4 tablespoons to each tank refill
Far easier on your van paint, pump and not a bug feast.
#4
if there is water all over the driver side at the engine compartment, that means there is something broken or disconnected from the washer motor.
sometimes the wiper motor's nipple breaks. sometimes the hose gets disconnected from the nipple. sometimes the hose might have a hole.
have someone press the washer button while you look with a flashlight to see where exactly the water is coming from. (ignition switch in START position but engine OFF)
If you have a REAR WINDOW WIPER & WASHER, and your FRONT motor is broken, you can use the rear motor at the front.
I doubt the cowl assembly is the source of the water.
sometimes the wiper motor's nipple breaks. sometimes the hose gets disconnected from the nipple. sometimes the hose might have a hole.
have someone press the washer button while you look with a flashlight to see where exactly the water is coming from. (ignition switch in START position but engine OFF)
If you have a REAR WINDOW WIPER & WASHER, and your FRONT motor is broken, you can use the rear motor at the front.
I doubt the cowl assembly is the source of the water.
#5
Thanks - Im hoping it's just a broken or disconnected hose - being that it's 25 years old, and original rubber, it wouldn't shock me...
I forgot that the overflow and the washer tank are split like that... hopefully, I can get to it by just yanking the battery out?
My 89 actually has the jets on the actual wipers themselves, not in the cowl like my 96 exp does... I can see the rubber tubes there. I always loved that design, puts the stuff where you need it, and even on the Hwy or a windy day, it's right on the windshield. of all the cars we have, the wipers work best on the aero...
but, Im sure that to gain access to the tubing from that point to the pump, you have to pull the cowl. Im really hoping not to have to do this :-) looks like there is some metal tubing there at the base of the wipers too...
I'll let you all know what I find out - is the pump under the tank?
Thanks
I forgot that the overflow and the washer tank are split like that... hopefully, I can get to it by just yanking the battery out?
My 89 actually has the jets on the actual wipers themselves, not in the cowl like my 96 exp does... I can see the rubber tubes there. I always loved that design, puts the stuff where you need it, and even on the Hwy or a windy day, it's right on the windshield. of all the cars we have, the wipers work best on the aero...
but, Im sure that to gain access to the tubing from that point to the pump, you have to pull the cowl. Im really hoping not to have to do this :-) looks like there is some metal tubing there at the base of the wipers too...
I'll let you all know what I find out - is the pump under the tank?
Thanks
#6
in all my Aerostars, the pump / motor has been on the side of the container/tank, a plastic container separated into washer liquid and coolant overflow compartments, but the same part.
Yes, remove the battery and maybe the battery Tray. (in my 1997 the battery Tray must come off too).
the motor snaps onto the side of the front compartment. Just pull it to remove or push it to reinstall. But you need to find out FIRST where the water is coming out before you pull the pump motor. The 2-wire electrical connector is at the top of the pump.
in my 1997, the nipple at the bottom of the plastic pump body was partially broken off, so water was spraying everywhere. It wasn't until I pulled the container that I noticed where the problem was. I just took the pump from the rear window washer and put it in the front, then I went to a salvage yard and pulled one from another van and replaced the rear pump. The front washer is the important one.
By the way, I use only water in all my cars, the blue fluid is a ripoff, it is water with colorant and alcohol and soap. I have never had a clogged washer system using only water. In winter I add a spoon of alcohol to the water and it doesn't freeze. (that tip I learned from the Service Manual of my 1965 Jaguar S type).
Yes, remove the battery and maybe the battery Tray. (in my 1997 the battery Tray must come off too).
the motor snaps onto the side of the front compartment. Just pull it to remove or push it to reinstall. But you need to find out FIRST where the water is coming out before you pull the pump motor. The 2-wire electrical connector is at the top of the pump.
in my 1997, the nipple at the bottom of the plastic pump body was partially broken off, so water was spraying everywhere. It wasn't until I pulled the container that I noticed where the problem was. I just took the pump from the rear window washer and put it in the front, then I went to a salvage yard and pulled one from another van and replaced the rear pump. The front washer is the important one.
By the way, I use only water in all my cars, the blue fluid is a ripoff, it is water with colorant and alcohol and soap. I have never had a clogged washer system using only water. In winter I add a spoon of alcohol to the water and it doesn't freeze. (that tip I learned from the Service Manual of my 1965 Jaguar S type).
#7
Jose - so, I can just mix up water and like a tablespoon of rubbing alcohol, and all is well? - yeah, beats paying $2 a jug for the stuff... good tip on the non freeze idea - it does get cold here in MA!!
so, dumb question, but if I pull the pump to examine it, the tank will drain any water left in there?
I kinda like having both rear and front washers, but yes, the front is key - esp on the hwy where if you can't see, you would get in trouble fast.
can you get these aftermarket? or dealer only?
Thanks
so, dumb question, but if I pull the pump to examine it, the tank will drain any water left in there?
I kinda like having both rear and front washers, but yes, the front is key - esp on the hwy where if you can't see, you would get in trouble fast.
can you get these aftermarket? or dealer only?
Thanks
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#8
you welcome,
yes, water only, I just fill it with the garden hose, then add a spoon of alcohol as soon as water starts to freeze. (late Fall) I've been doing it for years without ANY problems, including in my two Jags. Doesn't leave a stain on the paint either, like the blue stuff does.
yes, if you pull the pump, all the water will drain, I do that every now and then to power-wash the container with a garden hose sprayer, remove built-up crud, check the container for cracks, etc.
yes, you can get these pumps aftermarket, (Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, NAPA, etc), but I refuse to pay $40.00+ for a new one. You can find them for $5.00 at salvage yards, usually it is the same pump from any Ford.
here's a link for one on eBay for 1989 Aerostar under $13.00 delivered; Make sure you look at yours and compare it to the picture first.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Windshield-W...9be77b&vxp=mtr
yes, water only, I just fill it with the garden hose, then add a spoon of alcohol as soon as water starts to freeze. (late Fall) I've been doing it for years without ANY problems, including in my two Jags. Doesn't leave a stain on the paint either, like the blue stuff does.
yes, if you pull the pump, all the water will drain, I do that every now and then to power-wash the container with a garden hose sprayer, remove built-up crud, check the container for cracks, etc.
yes, you can get these pumps aftermarket, (Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, NAPA, etc), but I refuse to pay $40.00+ for a new one. You can find them for $5.00 at salvage yards, usually it is the same pump from any Ford.
here's a link for one on eBay for 1989 Aerostar under $13.00 delivered; Make sure you look at yours and compare it to the picture first.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Windshield-W...9be77b&vxp=mtr
#9
One of the characteristics of commercial windshield washer fluids is that they have a detergent that's not supposed to foam up. This is important for a windshield; you don't want your visibility obscured by bubbles. So be careful using dish soap or other common detergents.
I think the 1989 Aerostar uses the same washer motor that Ford has been using since the mid to late 60s, so it should be easy to find a replacement. $13 sounds about right.
But your situation sounds more like a loose hose. Mine came with a small in-line filter to keep crud out of the actual jets. It started to come apart a few years ago, and sprayed water all over the engine bay.
I think the 1989 Aerostar uses the same washer motor that Ford has been using since the mid to late 60s, so it should be easy to find a replacement. $13 sounds about right.
But your situation sounds more like a loose hose. Mine came with a small in-line filter to keep crud out of the actual jets. It started to come apart a few years ago, and sprayed water all over the engine bay.
#10
Found the problem - very easy:
There is a connector that looks fancier than just a coupling, that connects the lower hose with the hose that sits just below the cowl... that was cracked in 1/2
my guess is this is a sort of check valve sort of thing... since it has an arrow on it for direction of flow - it's a clearish piece, about 2 inches long, nipples on both ends, and is a little bit fat in the middle...
So, what is it, and where can I buy one? Is this Dealer only?
glad I solved this - but I want to replace it with the right part, and not just a straight coupler.
Thanks
There is a connector that looks fancier than just a coupling, that connects the lower hose with the hose that sits just below the cowl... that was cracked in 1/2
my guess is this is a sort of check valve sort of thing... since it has an arrow on it for direction of flow - it's a clearish piece, about 2 inches long, nipples on both ends, and is a little bit fat in the middle...
So, what is it, and where can I buy one? Is this Dealer only?
glad I solved this - but I want to replace it with the right part, and not just a straight coupler.
Thanks
#11
#12
I ended up just super glueing it back, it was a good clean break, so it set up nicely for that. - I normally wouldn't have done that, for a free fix, I now have an OEM part again :-)
BTW Ford wants $9 for this stupid thing... I think I saw them for $.49 at AZ. Our Napa is so 1970's - everything is looked up in books still... can't understand that in today's world...
anyways, if this does fail, I'd do the match up thing next, but at least it seems ok for now... I let it dry for 4 hours, and curing overnight... it was that gel stuff - super strong :-)
Cheers
BTW Ford wants $9 for this stupid thing... I think I saw them for $.49 at AZ. Our Napa is so 1970's - everything is looked up in books still... can't understand that in today's world...
anyways, if this does fail, I'd do the match up thing next, but at least it seems ok for now... I let it dry for 4 hours, and curing overnight... it was that gel stuff - super strong :-)
Cheers
#13
#14
I think it is an anti-backup check valve, it keeps the water from going back into the container so that there is always water ready at the washers.
My 1986 had it, my 1992 did not have it, and my 1997 does not have it.
there is another similar check valve located at the top of the engine, in a vacuum line leading to the blower case.
My 1986 had it, my 1992 did not have it, and my 1997 does not have it.
there is another similar check valve located at the top of the engine, in a vacuum line leading to the blower case.
#15
Here we are, American car culture at its worst.
If this had broke on my bmw or mercedes I would have the part number in under 30 seconds, either by looking directly at the stamp on the part or by doing an online search of the model/year catalog.
Even google it.
But no. 3 hours later on an American vehicle, its still a mystery.
It's as if it never really exists.
If this had broke on my bmw or mercedes I would have the part number in under 30 seconds, either by looking directly at the stamp on the part or by doing an online search of the model/year catalog.
Even google it.
But no. 3 hours later on an American vehicle, its still a mystery.
It's as if it never really exists.