This is a truck I heard about a month or so ago. Never followed through on it. Realized I was wanting (told wife needed) a dependable daily driver to haul parts and such for the 71 SWB Flareside project truck.
The 71 is crude and generally speaking not all that pleasant to drive.
I did not realize how crude it was until I finally got this 69 running today, after paying for it. Clutch is so much smoother, gears shift a lot smoother and the engine has honest to goodness power. And for some reason it is a lot easier to stear (I have a too small of a wheel on the SWB, but that is not all keeping it from being easy to steer it seems).
But getting to run today required some effort. I had to clean out the all-steel fuel line (it was full of something equivalent to tar), and running a stripped piece of romex wire through the fuel outlet on the tank to clean it out (not quite to the bottom yet). It was running on old gas with some new.
The PO and his son both thought the fuel tank was what was keeping it from running - it had set about 3-4 months he said. They tried a new fuel pump and pretty much gave up after that.
After getting to run and driving around the ranch where it was kept, we started to head home with the wife following. The truck studdered and died. A click of the starter returned with click-click at the solenoid. I replaced the solenoid and the solenoid to starter cable and had the same results. Being 23 miles out, I was weary of the drives back and forth. Pretty sure the truck is out of gas as to why it died, or it down as far as I had cleaned out on the fuel outlet.
The particulars;
1969 F100 Custom;
3-on-the-three;
240 CID I6;
32,600 miles.
Other than getting it running, needs include mirrors, repair/patch some surface rust in the following areas - drip rail, driver's side,, both corners of the bed, and top side of the hump on both sides of the bed. A little more than surface rust in the bed corners and on the drip rail. Also windishield wiper blades, windshield washer reservoir, battery cables, change fluids. Down the line - fix the grill dents, fix small dent in driver's door, re-route fuel line. Honestly not planning on doing more than stabilize the truck and enjoy driving it while I work a little more leisurely on the 71.
I believe I will have to have the muffler replaced as well to pass inspection. Current setup has tail pipe exiting in front the the right rear wheel. I will have go back to to the factory style.





How I first saw it. At PO's barn.





It was pointing in the right direction to head home, but alas was not to be the case








Seats are in good condition, I am told, under the seat cover. Dash board is cracked. Both arms rests cracked.








Not terrible under the hood.

 

It's not a Custom, it's a Standard Cab, Custom's were introduced in 1970.

1969 was the last year for Standard & Custom Cabs in F100/350's.

Standard cabs do not have stainless steel windshield reveal mouldings or side mouldings. Have painted dog dish hubcaps.

Custom Cabs have both, and stainless steel dog dish hubcaps.

Rangers also have both, plus a Ranger emblem in the grille which is unique in 1969, as are the headlamp doors, as they have black paint surrounding the sealed beams.

 

I realized that last night as I was going through the VIN identification at Fordification. My old mindset just assumed it was a Custom or base level truck.
Now, if you could just tell me where a set of west coast mirrors are for this truck. I don't want to settle for the standard door mirrors that I can find at Dennis-carpenter.

 

Looks like a pretty solid old truck and it's the right color too.

 

Looks like a nice old truck for the $$ congrats !

 

It is a base level truck, which was referred to by FoMoCo as a Standard Cab thru 1969.

Two different types of Western Junior (aka West Coast) mirrors.

The type usually seen on 1967/72 Camper Specials has a 3rd steady rest arm, these mirrors stick out well past the cab (no pic available).

Other type of mirror is referred to as a Swing-Lock (see upper pic below). Its mirror head (C7TZ-17723-A) is the same, most everything else is different.

 

Well went back out today to "retrieve" the truck loaded with five gallons of gasoline and a new starter.
Starter was definitely bad.
Truck started right up.
About a mile into the return trip. It "ran" out of fuel and died.
I could choke it, hold down the accelerator to the floor and it would start run a few seconds and die.
At the fuel tank, I can pull the outlet and run a piece of wire down that hole to nearly the bottom of the tank. The piece of wire does not get wet. Yesterday it was.
So, Jimmy's Wrecker and I are taking the 23 mile trip back out there this afternoon to retrieve it and park it in my driveway.
Carb looks new. Very new. But it could be gummed up . I think this truck set longer than I thought. Inspection sticker is 02, but it was a ranch truck so it may not have been inspected regularly. The PO thinks the tank was replaced a few years ago and he had a shop do a bunch of general maintenance on it a few months ago (what is a few, I don't know).
On the mirrors, a forum member has come to the rescue and has a set for me for a nominal fee. Hot diggity dogs.

 

Oh, one other question. Has anyone ever used that epoxy that your roll out and form? I was thinking of this as a "simple" way to make a repair in a not so conspicuous spot - the front corner of the bed where I found something a little more than surface rust. I was thinking of cleaning out the seam, forming this epoxy into the crack, sanding later and painting.
Just an idea. Probably a bad one.

 

I think it is going to be a nice truck. Starting out a little shakey, but I am hoping for this to be my daily driver.
Price - $3500. Same as my rust bucket of a 71 SWB/Flareside. I don't see spending near as much on this truck as I have on the 71. I am going to kind of try to leave it stock, untouched as much as possible.
Yep, Ultranger, good color. Actually think the shine can be brought back to some resemblance of life.

 

I've used it to fill big spaces and stick things together. I don't know if you could fill a hole and sand it flush though. It would fall through without some kind of backing.

 

I am of two minds on this. Not sure which way I go.

I used the Loctite underwater epoxy putty to fill some holes in my floor pan. I later decided this was an unnecessary step, but it seems to have held up fine.

On the other hand, isn't this exactly what Bondo was made for?

 

Not having a welder any longer. I used pro-15 with a fiberglass boat patching cloth cover each floor pan rusted area. Clean good and painted floor one thick coat let it get tacky and added glass cloth worked out any air or bubbles then added top coat of more pro-15. keep working until no air pockets.

Don't get this paint on your skin or it will be on you for a good week if you let it setup.
Clean and wipe off any area you know want it to stay..
Orich

 

So lets see a pic or two the that pretty blue
all waxed up and shinny. Looks like it will
clean right up.

 

Actually, that's basically what I ended up doing. But the putty was still there in the spots I used it, and it continues to be there. So, I think it would work OK for his body-panel fix, but it also seems like the kind of thing Bondo is made for.

 

Very nice! Everything you need and nothing you don't. Love it.