1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Bought a bump today - 69 LWB Custom

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  #61  
Old 10-13-2014, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt
I show code 7 - harbor blue.

These are aftermarket mirrors. The PO used torx to install them.Might pull out the wife's hot glue gun (: Or might run down and find me a cheap, better one until I can get my west coast ones in.
I think those are cloned from Ranger mini-trucks cuz yes, they use Torx screws. I have a set on my 73.

Working on the West Coasts... no worries there.
 
  #62  
Old 10-13-2014, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
I think those are cloned from Ranger mini-trucks cuz yes, they use Torx screws. I have a set on my 73.

Working on the West Coasts... no worries there.
Hope you are not changing your mind on the mirrors after seeing that Ebay listing for West Coast mirrors (: Gads.
 
  #63  
Old 10-13-2014, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt
Hope you are not changing your mind on the mirrors after seeing that Ebay listing for West Coast mirrors (: Gads.
Nope... not at all.
 
  #64  
Old 10-13-2014, 02:42 PM
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That has got to be one of the cleanest 69 trucks, or for that matter any truck from the 60's, that was just sitting around waiting for a new owner to come along. I am amazed!
 
  #65  
Old 10-13-2014, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt
Think I figured out why the fuel kept flowing when I pulled the line. Did not disconnect from the tank. Duhhh.
As to the bed rust, my initial thoughts on the repairs are the scrape and sand the area. Tape it out and then rattle can primer and the correct Ford blue. Won't be a great match, probably, but will stop the rust for a while. Still thinking of one of those spray in bed liners, but really think that would hurt the look and the value.
What I do with surface rust is to clean it off as clean as possible. Then wipe Picklex 20 and let that sit for 1 minute before wiping it off. That stuff will kill the rust. Let dry them prime and paint. Wheel wells I don't like any kind of undercoating. Can always trap water if and when there is a little crack in the surface. POR-15 is prone to that. I would clean, Picklex 20 and then use Zero Rust on top. The inside of my fronts were painted the body color while the rears are red oxide up inside.

Spray in bed liners always seemed like a disaster to me and I won't do it in my truck ever. Just paint it like Ford did and if I need to ever carry anything then use a cut out rubber mat for the event then remove.
 
  #66  
Old 10-13-2014, 03:17 PM
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Sharp truck! Ready for a load of gravel to KC and back, too.
 
  #67  
Old 10-13-2014, 03:42 PM
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Will post some picks of the bed - not just surface rust there, unfortunately. I will have to look up picklex. A co-worker, who is working on a Falcon, mentioned using CLR for some surface rust. Might try that in my rear wheel wells.
Tedster - KC and a load of gravel. Could not imagine driving this thing with its 240 and light duty tranny and rear end with a load of gravel. And this truck won't be touching the roads of the midwest during the winter time (:
 
  #68  
Old 10-13-2014, 04:00 PM
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Wow nice paint! Keep us posted!
 
  #69  
Old 10-13-2014, 04:04 PM
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Noob question, I know. (Groans incoming)
What does "bump" mean? I know its normal usage in other forums, but it seems to have a much different meaning here...
 
  #70  
Old 10-13-2014, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Gabrielc1925
Noob question, I know. (Groans incoming)
What does "bump" mean? I know its normal usage in other forums, but it seems to have a much different meaning here...
'Bumpsides' are the '67-'72 model (5th generation) F-series trucks. This is in reference to the convex ridge that runs down the middle of the body sides. It resembles a bump.

'Dentsides' are the '73-'79 model (6th generation) F-series trucks. Their body line is concave and resembles a dent.
 
  #71  
Old 10-13-2014, 07:46 PM
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Yeah yeah, I know, the point is you could,, now that you've gone through it and such. That's what trucks are for, reliable transportation.
 
  #72  
Old 10-14-2014, 02:09 PM
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I use Ospho. It stops rust and prepares the surface for painting.
I apply it with a squirt bottle after cleaning the dirt and loose scale
off. I squirt it a couple times a month in this wet dirty area and
it stops the rust dead until I can get the weather and time to fix it
right. $25.00 a gallon will last about two years on both cars. I have
painted over it with primer after one application and In two years the
rust has not yet came back through the primer. Read up on it to know more.
 
  #73  
Old 10-14-2014, 02:54 PM
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I have used Ospho as well and it might be a good application to squirt in my bed corners. I have a co-worker who has restored a couple of older vehicles (40s) who said he thought the stuff was not good to use of bolts as it can contribute to brittleness. Don't know how true that is.
I started to use Ospho on frame rust and found myself switching over to Por 15. That stuff is more solvent than paint.
 
  #74  
Old 10-14-2014, 03:07 PM
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I don't think the POR15 stops the rust.
Don't it just cover it? Where as the Ospho
chemically changes the rust and stops it
before painting with something like the Por15.
I never have used the Por15 so I have no
idea if it chemically changes the rust. Anyone
know for sure as I have only read the label on
the Ospho. I like in this wet gravel road country.
I don't know if salt is used on the roads here. But
we all live on the beach so the salt air is wicked.
If ya leave your project truck parked in the yard
for say a year with one side to the bay. It will
rust way more than the other side.
 
  #75  
Old 10-14-2014, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy

The type usually seen on 1967/72 Camper Specials has a 3rd steady rest arm, these mirrors stick out well past the cab (no pic available).

Anyone know where I can find these besides CL and the local JY?
 


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