My 1991 Club Wagon has an Exhaust Manifold Leak. I'm not sure if it's the front or rear at this point, but OEM from Ford are NLA.

Any suggestions on which aftermarket Mfg. to go with, or any other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

is the manifold cracked ?

 

Not sure about the cause as yet, but plan to look into it this weekend.

 

probably a broken bolt, check it over before you dig in too far.

 

Good advice. Will be inspecting over the weekend.

Thanks

 

FORD EXHAUST MANIFOLDS

Exhaust manifold info.

 

Jimbbski. Thanks for the info!

 

What's NLA?

 

No longer available.

 

I think I might have an exhaust leak on mines too. Wondering if you can help me out on my post.

 

Ford has a famous Long history of - Right exhaust manifold leaks.

My '94 was bad, so bad it took the plug wire boot insulation off, cracked, burned off, causing mis-fire, with the plugs grounding out on the manifold.

Looking at the rust crusted bolts, thinking........if one snaps off in the head

So, took the plunge, and was surprised how easy the bolts came out, once I got a socket "hammered" over the bolt head, and didn't snap one off.
New gasket, new manifold bolts, and no more listening to the poof-poof sound on a 4 hour drive, or even just around town.

 

I was told that my 1991 did not use exhaust manifold gaskets. Is this true with others that have experienced the leak.


I know that Dorman sells gaskets for the exhaust manifold, so I'm wondering if I should add them. (?)


Again, thanks for all your feedback.

 

When the vehicle is assembled most often there is no gasket used between the head and the exhaust manifold. With both surfaces clean, smooth, and rust free they will seal fine. It's when you take them apart years later and then want to reassemble them again that it can get iffy. With a cast iron manifold and cast iron head I have just used high temp silicone successfully but using a gasket is also OK. You do have to be careful when using a gasket though. Don't over tighten one bolt. You need to do all of them in steps or your could put stress on the manifold and cause it to crack. If using just silicone you don't have that problem.

 

Im considerinh jumping into this soon. 96 w/5.8. Is this a big task or is everything pretty easily accessible?

 

Really not too bad, once you get the bolts cracked loose, the worst is the #1 cylinder, with the egr tubes and bulk head in the way.
I would suggest to remove the egr tubes to gain access.

The other problem is the studs nuts holding the Y pipe on the manifold.
If your lucky, you would not need to remove the nuts for the Y pipe, and just get the manifold pull back enough to slip the gasket in.

But, do spent the $8 - $10 for the stud kit, replacing the 'old-worn-out' bolts.

Once your have the manifolds in place, and torqued up, warm the engine up for about 15 minutes, let it cool for a couple hours, or over night, and then re-toque the bolts.