This weekend while I was 700+ miles from home I had 2 instances where the truck would not start. Both cases after several tries it started up. The second time I was able to get out and listen. It sounded like a soft click from the starter.
I am only familiar with early Chevy style starters and solenoids that are integrated. As I understand, they have a Solenoid and contact (one in the same) that advances the armature into forward position and the contacts applies power to it once advanced, then the starter rotates.
My question is:
Is the Ford starter of the same design? The click sounded more like contacts closing rather than the armature advancing and no spinning could be heard. If this is the case I am thinking about opening the solenoid and examining the contact plates. I have only owned this Ford for a few months and know no prior history, the battery and connections seem to be good.
Thanks

 

I believe that it is the same style where they are integrated into the same unit. I have had starter problems in the past. One of the commmon issue for our trucks is that the starter bolts start to walk themselves out over time with all the shake, rattle and roll that the engine does. The starter is on the lower passenger side of the engine at the transmission bell housing. I would go under the passenger's side and give the starter a good wiggle to see if there is any play (three bolts). If there is, that may be at least some of your problem. I check every time I change my oil since I've had them start to walk out on me even with blue (medium) threadlock on them.

 

What's your battery voltage? What are you doing or testing to determine that the battery "seems" to be good.
I've also seen cables and connectors that appear good but failed until cleaned or replaced.

 

Funny thing about the battery voltage. I noticed this morning!
I was out checking things out and looking at the starter, I measured 12.7v at the starter and 12.7v at the battery . I disconnected the passenger battery and then measured 3v across the terminals to the drivers battery (there was a lot of crusty corrosion under passenger terminal clamp) removed drivers battery terminals, same thing. Cleaned up with a wire brush and vinegar/ soda solution. I tightened up terminals and she fired right up quicker and stronger than I think I've seen yet. While setting the radio presets I rolled the windows down.
Up to this point I thought I had a weak motor on the passengers window, it always was kinda choppy going up and down...smooth as silk now. I will keep a close eye on it for the next few days, starting it up and let it run for a bit, and get some battery grease for terminals.
BTW the mounting bolts were nice and tight!
Thanks for the input!

 

Nice recommendation. I completely forgot about that one. Reps sent!

 

My power windows are very slow when the glow plugs are still 'on' - due to the naturally low battery voltage.

An '01 7.3 has the old style starter solenoid on the inner fender. I believe the later 7.3s were integrated.

 

I charged it up cleaned all the terminals (separated and cleaned each one both sides) with Scotch bright pad/ and round wire brush inside the ring. Applied dielectric grease. Disconnected batteries, turned on all accessories and ran fine off the alternator. I did perform the battery drain test in the manual very little drain, within the test range. Started up after a few hours OK. Let it set for 2 days would not start....just click.
Put Charger/Starter on it and fired right up. Drove into town ( 25 miles round trip) left running for 15- minutes 2 times while in a few stores. Shut it off to grocery shop, came out fired right up.
What is the optimum RPM and drive distance for a charge....some other vehicles I own will not charge (if the battery is drained) unless around 2000 PRMs.
Also looking to test batteries soon, any ideas on a reliable home tester for battery and charging system?
Thanks!

 

If you have an internal draw to drain your batteries enough to not start, I'd start there. Use a vom/amp meter with positive cable disconnected to measure amp draw with all shut down.

If batteries a relatively good, a very short drive will bring them back to where re-starting won't be an issue. If a bad cell, it will probably start after a good charge but won't if left overnight. A hydrometer would help to determine a bad cell or two.

The old style, single pole alternators needed to get "excited" to activate the charging, usually over 2000 rpm's.

I don't know of any vehicles these days that run that system. I could be wrong but I would expect all Mfg's to use a typical 3 wire system today, which activates charging upon start up.