Yep yep for some people that might be their only option, or at least the only option they want to do without modifying stuff.

Offering a charcoal canister might be a good idea , perhaps our tank manufacturer knows of a good one that wouldn't cost too much.

 

Only downfall of a canister is they require a connection to intake vacuum to suck the fumes back into the engine so gas doesn't accumulate in the charcoal.

 

Oh ok, will have to look into that then, we don't really mess with engine stuff, we just recently started to sell simple stuff like gaskets, only for original engines though.

 

I received the parts today and I am a little concerned about the size. Is this large enough to displace enough air to prevent the gas from backing up in the fill pipe? It seems awfully small. Has anyone seen one of these in action?

The hose is also too short to follow the fill tube to the top. It just makes it under the bed side. I think it will be too low. I was hoping to run it up in the fender well next to the fill.

The tootsie rolls were good though... thanks.

 

Try one thing at a time, e.g. try filling with you new 60 deg bend first. If that fixed your problem save the money and return the vent kit. That is what that is designed for, a tank vent when running a non-vented cap not as a fill vent. Think about it can you run a hard 90 deg turn faster than you can run a sweeping turn, No. Fix your flow issue and you fix your problem unless you want to throw parts at it all at the same time and then you won't know which one fixed the problem.

You said the other day you put a 60 deg turn in the system, did that help at all, or have you even tried to see if it made a difference. Test your fixes and let us know, it helps with educated responses from us.

 

I tested the new fill pipe to see if it was good by it self. It was a little better but still backed up.
Looks like I will have to vent it. Just want to make sure the vent from Mid Fifty is big enough before I install it.

 

I would be drilling and tapping that vent bung for 1/2" NPT and doing the same on the filler tube for a 5/8" vent hose. With a vacuum cleaner, grease on the drill bit, and a shop vac you would get very few chips in the tank if any. Even with a 3/8" hose I would not of used their parts, just needed a fitting at the tank and to install a barb fitting on the filler tube with a 3/8" hose connecting them. Their way vents to the outside which means gas fumes all the time coming out of the tank and fumes being pressurized out of the tank around the truck during fillup. Myself I dont think a 3/8" hose is large enough to help much regardless.

 

I read on here somewhere you had two 90's. So I went back and looked at the pics you posted and sure enough you have a 90 fill neck, a sweeping 90 but still a 90. Can you try a straighter fill neck? Those 90's are going to kill you, nothing like a 90, not even exhaust. My old '76 F-150 took twenty minutes to fill and it was stock, Fords better idea. Saw a guy at the pumps one day with the same vintage F-150 who parked his truck on a 4x4 he carried in the cab to try and get more drop into the tank so I know the problem was not just my truck. What I am saying is try making a straight run, as much as possible, even if it means making some custom parts and dropping the tank to put in a straight pipe at the tank welded at an angle.

 

Try a neck like this and get rid of the upper 90.

Recessed Fender Fill

 

The only 90 I have now is on the tank. There is a slight bend at the top of the filler but the nozzle goes past that so I don't there is a problem there.

My concern is the size of the hose and valve. I was hoping someone has used one of these and could say if it works or not. I dont want to install and have a problem returning it if it doesn't work for me.

I think if I was going to drill the bung I would take the tank out and drain it first. Don't want to drill on a tank full of gas...

 

I'd expect a 3/8" ID hose would be an adequate vent, at worst it might whistle while filling. Just keep it as short and straight as possible, remove the filter end if still too restrictive, loop the hose up and point the end downwards will keep any junk out of it.

 

I'm running a non vented marine style filler neck also



I drilled and tapped the side of the neck to add a 1/2' fitting so that I could connect the big vent line from the tank. This works well for filling the tank bu the overall system is still not vented.
I've been running like this for several years without any issues. This year on a cross country road trip, after a couple hundred miles, my truck ran out of gas. It felt like a vapor lock which. I'm running an electric pump so vapor locking shouldnt be an issue. I pulled over and sure enough, no fuel at the carb. I cracked the lines at my filer and, no fuel there either. I went back and cracked the fuel cap, cracked the lines at the filter and rant the electric pump. A minute or so and I had fuel again. I tightened everything down and was back on the road.

I think what happened is that, since this is a closed system, the fuel is being pumped out and air cannot enter the tank to replace it so a vacuum eventually builds up that the electric pump can't overcome. I think my best bet is to head to the wrecking yard and dig up one of those vent/check valve doohickeys from the camaros/firebirds.

One more thing added to the "To Do" list

Bobby

 

We had an issue where when you filled up there was a large rush of air into the tank. The tank would also emit a high pressure whistle sound on hot days (which we have a lot of in Texas). We added one of those 3/8 rollover vent valves connected to a charcoal canister we picked up from a salvage yard (because new ones were $218).

This solved our gas tank venting issues.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

If it doesn't work Ill make sure you can return it, just ask for Mike

Im hoping it will though

 

AX - This is only 5/16". That's why I'm concerned.

bobbytnm - The cap I have is vented so running is not an issue.

midfifty - Thanks, I will install it over the weekend and test it.