64 6 cyl 200

Prev owner said he changed from a gen to an alt, however it has the stock regulator?? Has some issues and wondering if it is set up right? Vendor sells a regulator for alternator conversions (see link below) I have a Morotcraft alternator..

Whats the correct set up?


ONE WIRE VOLTAGE REGULATORS FOR ALTERNATOR - One Wire Voltage Regulators - Falcon Enterprises

 

A true one-wire alternator is internally regulated and requires no external voltage regulation.

 

The alternator in there has 3 wires connected to it.. One to GND one to FLD and one to BAT there is a large 22 cast onto the back. Stamped in ink is 21308191

 

"Julie" to the rescue. It's been posted many times. Note that none of them goes to ground (although usually the regulator is grounded by its mounting screws)

 

Nice!! NOw, is that the stock regulator that was used with the generator?

 

No, it's the regulator that was used with the alternator. If you have any idea what the alternator came off, just get one for that. Hard to go wrong, if you get one made for a larger capacity alternator, it might let it put out too many amps, but not real likely.

 

Generators produce DC current...alternators produce AC current. The stock voltage regulator used with a generator is a mechanical device. Most all regulators for alternators are semiconductor devices. A generator has a permanent magnet that sets up the field for the stator; an alternator establishes a magnetic field by running a current through the "field" windings. The strength of the field controls the level of voltage/current output of the alternator.

The title of the link uses the terms "one-wire" in error.

 

Here is the alt and reg

As far as i can read the reg is 02df505-A ???

 

Yes, I know.. Thats why it seems like it might be the wrong reg? OR was the PO wrong about it ever having a gen? Is theis reg from a gen?

 

It says 25 amps on the regulator, I don't know of any alternators that put out less than 50. That one looks like a 65 - 75 amp model, pretty late model.

PS -- it doesn't look like the alt pulley is aligned with the crank pulley.

 

I appreciate everyone's help here..

It seems to me, from what I have learned here today, that this is a fairly new alternator, and the regulator is not correct for an alternator at all..

The alt is wired into the harness with 3 wires, ground, field, and bat.

The regulator is still wired into the harness..

Its odd that it works at all???

QUESTION: What to do now?

1. Disconnect the regulator? and do what with the wired I take off of it?
2. Replace it with what? Wired how?
3. Will the unit in the link in my first post do the trick?
4. It that a 1G?

 

Look at the diagram I posted; it shows the regulator-to-alternator wiring is a dedicated bundle. Go to the boneyard and find a '70's or newer Ford with external regulator, and grab the regulator and harness. The BAT wire going to your old regulator needs to remain, disconnected from the old reg but that is how battery power is fed to the fusebox. What vehicle is this? Looks like a Falcon or Comet?

 

Thanks for helping.. Its a Falcon-good eye!

Can I use this simple unit?




ONE WIRE VOLTAGE REGULATORS FOR ALTERNATOR

ONE WIRE VOLTAGE REGULATORS FOR ALTERNATOR - One Wire Voltage Regulators - Falcon Enterprises

SKU: F7078
Eliminates the bulky tangle of wires from your alternator to your regulator. The little regulator attaches to the back of a stock Ford 1965-1972 65 AMP. small block alternator. This part will work on a Ford alternator UP TO 65 AMPS! YOU MUST USE THE INCLUDED 2 NUTS FOR STAND OFFS!!!!!!!. PLEASE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.
This part is correct for all models of the 1960-1970 Ford Falcon & Mercury Comet which is converted from a generator to an alternator.
Price: $30.00
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Installation Instructions for the F7078 One Wire Voltage Regulator
Disconnect battery.
VERY IMPORTANT: Add a 10/32" nut on each ground stud on the back of the alternator. These will act as stand offs and prevent the wires from getting pinched against the case and shorting out.
Connect the black wire to one of the ground studs while mounting the regulator and secure assembly with 2 more 10/32" nuts.
Connect the RED wire to the large red insulated terminal labeled "bat".
Connect the GREEN wire to the terminal labeled "fld".
Connect the YELLOW wire to the terminal labeled "sta".
Install alternator on the engine.
After installing the alternator and one wire voltage regulator, there is only one wire involved to make the alternator charge the battery. One 10 gauge wire from the back of the alternator - BAT terminal to the positive side of the starter relay. That is it. The alternator will now charge.
If you want to use the in-dash warning light, it must be connected to the Orange wire on the new regulator.
Now the problem is what to do with the wires on the old generator? Since you don't use the wires, you may remove them or just tape them back.

However, if you want to hook up the warning light, you might want to use one of the existing wires to do that. We have found that using the white wire from the field terminal of the old generator, which is now disconnected can be connected to the Orange wire of the new regulator. Now all we have to do is find the other end of this white wire and the wire that leads to the warning light, connect those two ends together and the warning light should function. The other end of the white wire is connected to the FIELD terminal of the original voltage regulator. The warning light wire is a small yellow/black wire connected to the ARMATURE terminal of the old voltage regulator. Disconnect both of these wires from the old voltage regulator and splice the ends together. The warning light should now function.

Now, what about the old voltage regulator and the rest of the wires going to it? The easiest solution is to just leave it in the car as is. However if you want to remove it, please read on. Again, we already know that the rest of the wires coming from the old generator aren't to be used so they can be removed, taped back or left connected. They can be left connected as there is no current on them. There are some other wires on the old regulator that would have to be dealt with if you want to remove the old regulator. The main ones of concern are the 2 wires on the BATTERY terminal. These are large wires and carry +12 Volts to the ignition switch. If the old voltage regulator is to be removed, these 2 wires must be spliced together to get the +12V to the ignition switch. If the old regulator is removed, there may be an issue with the horn relay wire. Since Ford was inconsistent from year to year with the wiring of the horn relay, you will have to examine this connection to determine how to resolve it if there is a problem.
If a warning light is not desired, the orange wire may be cut off flush with the case of the regulator if desired.
Ensure engine block, alternator and chassis are all grounded properly.
Reconnect Battery.
This is a 65 ampere device. It will not work on any alternator that has a higher ampere rating.

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It might be easier to put the generator back? Quicker than readin' all that. (Sorry!! )

 

Yes, if the alternator is 65 amps or less.