On another note.....

The slightly loose LH Upper Ball-joint is bothering me BUT iam not ready to put the cash into the full tear-down yet.
If I just buy a "cheap" Upper for now (plan on full proper repair/upgrade after Tax return).

Is it possible someway to change that Upper without tearing everything apart, basically beat the old one out.
Iam not sure if the new one can be finagled in there some redneck way with that darn axle shaft in the way

 

I dont remember exactly how they go but I think if you remove the safety clip then yes you can just beat the top ball joint out.....

galaxy S4 using IB AutoGroup

 

I believe it was closer to the $2200 mark when I just did my front end on my 05'. But that was all ball joints inc track bar joint, track bar, all new tie rods, ball joints, bearings, seals only non ford parts were reman calipers as I found they were iffy and just decided to get new ones and pads on. I figured the oem went 170k+ and were not much more expensive than good quality aftermarket. The wife was not impressed with spending that much but we bought a used truck and all vehicles need maintenance at some point.

 

Why would you put that much money into Dynatrac when the sealed hub assemblies are cheaper and have obviously lasted 126k+ miles on your truck? Seems like a no brainer to keep the sealed hubs to me....

 

Big fat waste of money. You can buy a lot of hub assemblies for the price of that conversion. I will never have to pack wheel bearings with my sealed hubs...

 

Just checked it out & seems as if my idea is crushed

The lower BallJoint has a large clip underneath but the upper does not, either way they both are designed to be pressed in/out & while I was hoping to just beat the Upper one out & installing a new cheap unit temporarily.

That idea is not happening because there is 1.5 inch's of Ball-Joint Body & only 1 inch of space between the Knuckle & Axle Shaft

 

Where do u get a quality Hub thats NOT like $500 Chris

 

350 for a Timken from rock quto

Sent from my Telegraph using IB AutoGroup

 

only issue I was told with the SpinTec and DynaTrac conversions is their replacement parts are proprietary. So if you do have a bearing failure you must use their parts. They are much more expensive and so buying spares ahead of time just adds to the cost of converting

 

I've got the dynatrac kit. The hub and spindle are proprietary but it uses standard Dana 60 front bearings and seals just like my 78 f150s swapped in one ton axle. The outer stub is a standard Dana 70 outer and the stock brakes fit too. Odds of destroying a spindle or hub are pretty slim. I bought the kit because I broke both outer stubs, locking hubs, and stub fragments took out the wheel hubs one night stuck with an arb front locker. It was $1800 for the dynatrac kit or 1700 wholesale through the shop I work at to replace everything stock.

 

Thanks for your thoughts SpongeCop & Tim

I mean this in a "good" way.....SpongeCop is killing me
Iam actually in process now (since Feb. actually) to become a NC State Trooper

 

You can pick up Timken from Amazon for ~ $200 or DriveWorks from Advance Auto for about the same and it comes with studs and o-ring.

 

Tax-Return came in

I just ordered all this (Raybestos brand)...

2 Hub Assembly's (pn 715081)
2 Lower BallJoint's (pn 505-1181)
2 Upper BallJoint's (pn 500-1048)
& a OTC Knuckle Seal Installer (pn 6697)

I know I need 2 Knuckle Seals & 2 Axle Dust Seals (the seal on the end of the axle tube thats always flopping around on our trucks).
I heard theres an updated version of those Dust Seals

What am I missing (besides say U-Joints)
Anyone have "proven" P/N #'s on those Seal's for my 2006 F250

 

The update axle dust seal is brs 170


I believe there is a gasket for the hub, and there is an o-ring that goes on the hub/bearing ( the new hub/bearing should come with this ).

I didn't replace the knuckle seal but wish I would have.

You need to seal it back up tight so there will be no vacuum leak when you use the auto 4x4.

 

The hub assembly is a yellow o-ring and there's also a black o-ring for the auto locking hub.

I always replace the knuckle seal whenever I tear the front apart. It prevents debris from fouling the assembly as well as holding vacuum. For the work and price going into there it's worth the $30 or so for peace of mind.