Hi,
Here's a question about rims. The '65 F250 CS I got today came with six wheels. They are all 8-lug 16" wheels, and all appear to be the two-piece split rims. It looks like they are all using inner tubes, and the tires are all "vintage" bias belted. The four wheels that are currently mounted on the truck all appear to be the "outie" style, as is one of the spares. The other spare is the "innie" style.

Based on what I've read, if I want to put radial tires on it, I need to be looking for new rims from later model years, and I've seen a post that says what years will fit and what the available hubcaps look like.

Can I get confirmation that the split rims are not useful for every day use and incompatible with radial tires? Any input on the wisdom of continuing to drive on the existing rims and "ancient" tires, at least around town? There appears to be plenty of tread on them and they don't appear to be too rotted. Anyone want six rims?

 

A tire is a tire. It doesn't care what wheel it is mounted on, as long as it is the right size. If you can find anyone that will mount a tire on a split rim, which is doubtful. You can mount a radial on a split rim. I have done many. You will however need to use a tube that is radial tire approved. The thing about split rims is they are easy to mount and dismount tires yourself if you are careful and make darn sure the ring is on well before you start to inflate the tire. And whatever you do, don't stand above it while inflating it, in case the ring comes off.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. So it sounds like if I want to use radial tires, then I need to get inner tubes and mount (and balance) the tires myself. That has me leaning towards finding new rims.

Another post I read said that the shape/angle of the rim might not be compatible with the bead on a radial tire. But maybe that's not so much an issue with a tube?

Sorry for the dumb questions - this is my first encounter with split rims.

 

There are two basic types of split rim wheels, two piece and three piece. A two piece split rim has the main body of the rim and the inner portion of the barrel as one piece, and the outer removable rim section. These are the older style going way way back. If you do not know what you're doing with a 2 piece split rim and lack the safety cage for inflating them, you may find out why they have the nickname of "the widowmaker". If the outer ring is not properly positioned when inflating the tire the ring will blow off with enough explosive force to kill someone. even if the ring is positioned properly they can still break apart just because they are all at least 50+ year old rims. with 50+ years of corrosion and metal fatigue.

A three piece split rim has the inner barrel and wheel center as one part just like the two piece split rim, a second part that is the outer part of the barrel (the outer tire bead mounting part), and a separate locking ring that goes on last. Just like the two piece, you need to inflate these inside a safety cage when seating the tire beads.

A 7.50-16 (or P235/85-16) doesn't care if it's going on a one, two, or three piece rim. Advantage of a 1 piece rim is you can go tubeless if it's a tubeless design tire. Like Skidoo pointed out, if you get radials and run tubes, you have to get radial rated tubes designed to deal with the sidewall flex.

Just as a point of reference the wheel & tire company I worked for back in the mid 80's stopped servicing the 2 piece split rims all the way back then just because the liability insurance was too high and the risk was too great. It may have also had something to do with one of the mechanics changing his own tires after hours and when one of the wheels exploded not using the safety cage, it blew a big honkin hole right through the corrugated steel roof about 20 feet up.

 

alecs, There are a few basics that you need to be aware of, split rims are PRE radial as they were not here yet. Split rims whether they can be safely used or not were considered dangerous to tire changers and were discontinued.

The radial tires of today are designed to fit a different rim and be run tubeless. skidoorulz you are welcome to hold your opinion that they can be used, use them if you like, but I feel strongly that your thought that a tire is a tire is not safe to recommend to others. respectfully



John

 

John opinions vary but you look like you are old enough to know that there were millions of split rim wheels running radial tires back when radials first came out and split rim wheels were the only wheel that came out on 3/4 ton and up 2 wheel drive and 4 wheel drive pickups. Not to mention all the over the road trucks out there. We had a 66 1/2 ton Ford 4x4 that came with 15 inch split rim wheels on it' factory. 2 things killed the split rim wheel. The fact the not knowing what you were doing when mounting tires could get you killed. And the fact that everyone was going tubeless. Buying a tubeless tire and then buying tubes to put in them made no sense. I would have absolutely no problem using split rim wheels with todays tires, but as I said good luck getting someone to mount a tire on them. You would end up doing it yourself.

 

The only advantage to the split-rim wheel is that it can be serviced in the field with basic tools, as skidoorulz suggests. I have seen two methods of safe inflation: a chain snaked around the tire and through the wheel, and a jack between a board (across the ring) and the vehicle.
Many vehicles are still sold new with such wheels for this reason. You probably can live without this feature.
Eric

 

skidoorulz, I do not wish to get into a pissing contest over tires. I believe the beads or mount points on the narrower split rims are different from the wider wheels used today. I don't know when the last factory split was offered on a 3/4+ ton truck but would have to guess it's in the 35+ year range.

The concern that I have here is recommending to all of our fellow readers that new radial tires are OK to run on split rims. PLEASE sir feel free to run dirt dobber tires on your truck, it's your call.

I feel very strongly that tires made in the last few years do not carry a recommendation to be run of the unsafe split rims, and will loudly protest here anyone saying that they are safe to use to other readers of this forum.


John

 

Radial tires invented by Michelin.

First vehicle with radial tires as standard equipment: 1955 Citroen ID19, Citroen was owned by Michelin back then.

First US vehicle with radial tires as standard equipment: 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado.

Both the Citroen and Toronado have front wheel drive.

Ford did not offer factory installed radial tires until the mid 1970's on F100/350's and they were optional.

1966: Last year that F100's were available with split rims, Ford truck parts catalog sez use with tube type tires.

These were factory installed on 1965/66 F100 Camper Specials, all 2WD.

 

Ok, out of 6 wheels, only one is original to the truck. Very typical, somebody found some later F 250 wheels with good tires cheap. What are your plans for it? How is it going to be used? Is this just a work truck or a restoration project? Is originality important? IMO, truck used once or twice a week for short distances would be better off sticking with your present bias ply tires. Why do you want to switch to radial? Better ride? It is not a Cadillac, its a 3/4 ton pickup, ride is not going to be that much better. Better gas mileage? It is not a Prius, its a 3/4 ton pickup, gas mileage increase would be very minor. IMO, if your bias tires are good, just leave them on and wear them out. About the rims, the multi- piece wheel was always the "heavy duty" option on pickups back then, the one piece was the standard "light duty" wheel. In severe service work, tube type tires have a tendency not to loose air pressure when going over rocks, curbs or sharp curves. The 16" 8 lug wheels on your F 250 are the safer "lock ring wheels" which truck tire dealers still work on, not the more dangerous " split rim wheels" which many truck tire dealers do not work on any more. The "split rim wheel" ( connected together in the center of wheel) is a completely different design.

 

Not trying to stir up things but I'd like to mention that when you're swapping wheels between years (this includes aftermarket rims) you also need to pay attention to making sure you have the right style lug nuts for your wheels. Half ton trucks and cars typically have what's known as an acorn style lug nut which has a 60 degree taper that completely mates with the flared hole in the steel rims. 3/4 ton and larger trucks depending on the year of the wheel being used could have the 60 degree taper in the flare, or a 75 degree taper which needs a duplex style lug nut. Never mix the two because the lug nuts will have no holding power and they will loosen up after a short distance, then your wheels get ruined. if you hold the two types of lug nuts side by side you can see the difference.

If you wind up grabbing four matching one piece wheels from a salvage yard, make sure they are 16 inch and not 16.5's, it will be stamped on the wheel. 16.5's started being used in the 70's and fell out of favor by the early 80's when most brands went back to 16's.

 

E8AZ-1012-A (replaced C0AZ-1012-A & B-1012-A) .. Lug Nut - 1/2" -20 / Use with painted steel wheels / Available from Ford

1948/52 F1/F3 / 1953/83 F100 / 1953/95 F250 (except 1980/95 H/D & 1985/95 with DRW) / 1961/67 E100 / 1966/96 Bronco / 1969/74 E100/300.

1975/96 F150 & E100/250 (except E250 H/D) / Misc: 1932/90's Passenger Cars.

 

Here is why most people will not work on split rim, lock ring, 2 piece or whatever they are called. There are many names for them. I have mounted tires on plenty of this type of wheel from 15 inch up to 22 inch. Always put the big ones in a rack like on the video but never the 15 or 16's. Why I will never know. If a 15 came apart the result would be the same. Guess I was just to lazy to take the little ones off the tire machine and the big ones were always done on the ground.
This is what a tire looks like exploding in slow-motion - Autoblog

 

I am running radials on my orginal split rims. 1966 F250 CS. I did have the old tires dismounted then sand blasted wheels and rings, re painted. I have them worked on at a truck tire place. These guys deal with Semi truck tires all day and my tires are like toys to them. $25 to dismount and mount a tire. I will not touch them for that.


A aggree with John that a novice shouldn't play with these tires. I also have a 1963 Dodge one ton with different rings. They are actually split, not a complete ring. I really don't mess with those. Same $25 to dismount/mount. A friend of mine chains them up and changes his Dodge tires. More power to him. Not me.


Not to steal the thread, but I aways assumed that the idea behind these type rims is that tire technology back in the day couldn't keep a tire in a conventional rim at the higher pressures of truck tire. Is that true?
Here's my tires mounted on orginal rims




http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0955a50a.jpg
Rich in Colorado www.photobucket.com/1966f250

 

If you want to keep the original look, don't mind the expense of tubes and tires, and have a local place to mount them, I would keep them.


If you don't want to screw with the added work and expense, go for the modern wheels.


Its all personal preference.