My truck is a 1986 F-250 with a 460, T19, BW1345, Sterling 10.25 rear axle and Dana 44 IFS front axle.

I bought the truck 3 days ago and it leaks every fluid it has.

I found a thread on replacing the universal joints, spindle bearings and such which is part of info I need but it was on a 1993 Bronco with automatic hubs. I don't know what's the same and what isn't so that's partially why I created this thread.

As for the front differential leaking I want to pull it out, replace the shaft seals and "cover" gasket. While I'm there I want to replace the universal joints and wheel or "spindle" bearings.

I have Googled "OEM Ford parts suppliers" to find a diagram and find out what I need, part numbers and such but I cannot find a good source of that information.

What I think I need is

-Spicer 40710 Drivers Side Inner Axle Seal
-Spicer 40773 Passenger Side Inner Axle Seal
-Spicer 5-760X Front U Joints
-Fel Pro Front Diff Gasket
-Permatex Ultra Black RTV
-Valvoline/Gear Oil 80w-90 (2 Quarts)

Still no idea on the bearings and such.

Part of the issue is my ignorance not knowing what these things look like in person, how the system is designed or what some of the parts are called.

I'm new to the 4x4 world, as its pretty evident by now I'm sure. This is my first "real" truck. I'm very familiar with forums and vBulletin in particular but I'm having problems finding what I need here. This forum covering so many generations and some of the information intertwines with other generations. Which is not what I'm used to. Like I said above, I don't know what's the same and what isn't. It's kinda overwhelming coming from a forum where there is only one generation covered and the vehicles had all the same drivetrains.

This is what I'm working with. I apologize if I'm too ignorant to help. Thanks in advance.

 

I can find the outer wheel bearing and race but I cannot find the inner bearing just the race.

According to this diagram I got from Autozones website the inner and outer are the same. But every website I go to only specifies that Timken SET45 is the outside...



1986 Ford F250 Truck (Timken) Pair Dana Axle for Models with Wheel Hub Bearing Outer Front 4WD at 1A Auto.com









-

 

use ultra grey rtv.

 

"Designed specially for high-torque and high-vibration applications."

"Temperature range -65°F to 500°F."

Sounds good, I see why you recommended it.

 

Judging from your second picture I would say to replace the pivot bushings while you have it all apart.

 

I was thinking about it. I might as well.

 

Do you really need to get into the frontend? I would clean the pumpkin off on the front, oil gets spilled on it usually when you take the oil filter out during a engine oil change.

If you are going in, you need to pull the whole thing apart, and it's a big job. I can't remember if you can pull the axles with the spindles in place or not, it's been too long since I did one and can't remember. But it would be very unusual for a truck like this to have original balljoints that are still good. So I would check them while you are in there, you probably need new ones. You only want to do this job once, what a pain. Also check the center pivot bushings that the arms pivot on, and check your front spring shackle bushings that are up inside the frame rail.

If you replace everything that is bad and then get it aligned, you will have a nice driving truck that doesn't wear the tires out. These ttb frontends get a bad reputation because they are never taken care of when they wear out.

 

I checked the diff fluid level and it's pretty darn low. I assume no damage is done but I know it had to leak from somewhere.

What I'm planning on doing is eliminating the possible locations it could be leaking from then not having to worry about it every time I drive it.

Pulling the axles with the spindles in place would be nice. I was hoping for that.

All four ball joints are good and the truck drives great. Only complaint is some cupping on the front tires. It appears to be on both front tires and on both sides. The tires reportedly have 6000 miles on them and have never been rotated. I can also tell they are a somewhat soft compound tire.

I will be replacing the center pivot bushings while I'm at it and I will look into the shackle bushings.

As for the TTB front end I plan on keeping it and not going straight axle. I'm not going to do any off roading or if I do it will be because it's necessary. The main thing I have in mind for it is snow this winter which is what I'm getting it ready for.

Thank you for your help Franklin2, I greatly appreciate it!

 

Head to the self-serve car wash and pressure wash underneath and the whole front area. Oil looks like it's coming from above the axle. As stated earlier, hard to tell with all that crap under there ~Bill

 

When the front of my pumpkin got oily it was usually that damn C2 power steering pump puking itself.

How many miles on this truck?
You may need a FMS.
They will run all over the crossmember and drip down.

A fresh 'straight up' timing set would probably do wonders in a 460 this old.

 

Will do.

The valve cover gaskets are shot and I'm pretty sure the oil pan gasket is too. I know some of the fluid on the differential is oil due to those two issues.

What has me worried about the differential is the fluid level. I pulled the plug out and stuck my middle finger down in it and it feels dry as a bone. When I pull my finger out it's not the least bit wet anywhere.

 

That makes sense because the guy I bought it from said the power steering pump leaked. Which I planned on rebuilding as I have done it on Honda's before.

I was also told by the previous owner that the water pump might be going out as he said it was making a ticking noise. When I drove it home I didn't hear it. But now I can and it sounds like the fan clipping the shroud but I cannot see that it's nicking it anywhere.

I planned on putting in a new water pump along with valve cover gaskets, front main seal and oil pan gasket. I was thinking about throwing a new timing set in and now that you mentioned it I will go ahead and do it while I'm there.

The odometer reads 66,000 so I assume it has 166,000 miles on it.

I'm reading up on a "straight up" timing set as I have never heard that term before.

 

Starting in 1972 cam timing was retarded 4 degrees (eight degrees at the crank)
Just install a post '88 EFI timing set.
You will get rid of the emissions timing and pick up a roller chain in the process.

 

Fan is probably clipping the upper A.I.R. pump pulley.

Ford C2 steering pumps puke all over themselves if you turn the wheel with the engine off.

Good luck getting the pan off a 4x4 460.
It will be easier to pull the engine right out.
If you go in there, do clean all the shards of plastic out of the pickup screen.

 

Ok got it. Simple enough.

Good to know about the power steering pump. I make it a habit not to do that anyways but it's still good to know.

Didn't know that about the oil pan. Hopefully when I spray the underside off it looks to be in good condition and doesn't leak

I plan on pulling the engine out in the spring and rebuilding it. So as long as it makes it about 2500 or so miles this winter I will be content.

Someone did some rigging at one time as the accessories are a bit tampered with. I noticed that when looking for the ticking sound.