After 9-10 months of having my Infinity and EGT probe kit, im finally wanting to install the EGT probe. Ive never tapped threads before, and always thought the location was hard to reach and process was tricky or difficult.

Ive looked up a few pictures, and from what i understand i just crawl under the truck, and up is my driver side manifold, and by a bend at the end of it before the next pipe, i just drill my 5/16" inch hole, then use a 1/8-27 NPT tap and tap the hole.

One, is this the correct location to tap?
One.Five, do i have to be careful with metal shavings?

I found a couple "kits" with the 5/16" drill bit, and the 1/8"-27 tap. - about $15

Two, are there any kits with the *tap t-handle* included all for a reasonible price? The origionl $15 + about $10ish for the T-Handle all in one?
-If not i can make 2 seperate purchases, or find one dealer with both items.

Ive never tapped before, but if i remember correctly from high school, you drill the hole, and slowly making sure your straight in, start turning the tap in cutting the first threads. Then repeatedly spray with a lube, cutting a few threads, and backing out a little, spraying more lube, cutting a few threads, then backing out a little, ect, till complete?

Three, if lube is necessary, what do you suggest?

Thanks, and FOUR- if i left anything out for this process please let me know, or useful hints, tips, and tricks!

 

Riffraff sells a kit, drill bit and tap. Make sure whatever tap you get is for NPT threads.

You want to drill in the up-pipe right where it attaches to the exhaust manifold. I use regular motor oil when drilling and tapping. Go slow when drilling and most of the shavings will fall to the ground, and when tapping the oil will cause the shavings to stick to the tap. I usually pull the tap out about halfway down and clean it. Just take your time and make sure the tap starts straight and sounds like you got it.

 

This is where I drilled mine. It's a straight shot upward, laying on your back. Make sure to wear eye protection. You've got the right idea, and if I remember correctly, I was careful to not run the tap all the way in on the last few turns without test checking the fit with the thermocouple. I just wanted to be sure I didn't remove too much material so I could ensure a tight fit. Many will say to not be too concerned with metal shavings as they will harmlessly pass through the exhaust, but I went ahead and used my shop vac to suck out any fragments. I was a bit apprehensive about doing this, but it wound up actually being the easiest part of my gauge install.

 

I used to be nervous of tapping, but when faced with tapping 24 holes into 3/16" steel for mounting large LCD/LED displays - all caution went to the wind. A blast of that sticky chain lube and it's drill city. I set the torque very light, in case I had binding - but the 5/16" holes took no time at all.


For you... I do not suggest a drill to drive the tap. In your case, I would not have my manifold as my first tap. I would first practice on some scrap metal in a bench. Get a feel for it, and don't force it. Try going too deep and too shallow - to see how the threads on the adaptor will work. Once you have the experience, you'll have the confidence to go after the manifold.


Get the most powerful magnet you have (or acquire a good one) and use a paper clip. Bend it to get up in the hole to grab whatever shavings may have made it inside. While drilling, have your shop vac hose pulling the filings away. This is a better option than the filings landing in the Vee in your shirt, then falling to uncomfortable places when you stand up with your tucked-in shirt.

 

I just found it, (pyro tap and drill bit kit from RiffRaffDiesel) its the same price as others on the web, so of course id rather support RiffRaff Diesel, Clay has helped me out many times!


What about the T-Handle, i dont own a set of tap and dies, so including a handle in the "Kit" would be nice. Unless you can use something else?

 

Harmlessly pass through the exhaust by way of the turbo. I would definitely be concerned about metal shavings. I went with a shop vac while drilling and a telescoping magnet like tugly said. I didn't use any type of oil because I was afraid it would make it harder to suck the shavings out with the vacuum or magnet. I had a cheap tap and die kit from harbor freight but I might have used a 1/4" ratchet with a socket that fit the tap instead of the t handle. I don't remember why I did it that way but it worked pretty well.

 

If you have a full small socket set you should be able to find a socket that fits the tap well enough to run it in. I do and have done it when certain occasions arise like when I can't fit a T-handle in the spot. It really is an easy operation.

 

The exhaust wheel on the turbo is hardened steel designed to withstand 1600F. Any shavings from the soft cast iron manifold will pass through the wheel, which is not spinning very fast with no load on it, at idle. I still consider myself a newbie here, but having been on FTE for over 5 years, not once have I ever seen anyone post a destroyed turbo from metal shavings during a pyro install. When I did research of old threads before my own pyro install, most concluded the shavings were a non issue.

 

One other thing while I'm thinking of it...NPT is a tapered thread and thus a tapered tap (almost alliteration there). The wedge of the taper permits the pipe to tighten since there is no bolt head there to do it and it creates a seal. DO NOT drive the tap all the way in like you would with an SAE or metric bolt tap or the hole will probably be too big for the threads to tighten and you'll be asking what to do to build the hole up so it will get tight (don't ask how I know this). I would drive the tap about half way in or so (others may do differently) and see how it fits. Then tap deeper if you need to.

 

My two cents:

Location as seen in the Diesel Manor pic above. Lay on back, drill straight up.

Use drill/tap kit from RiffRaff.

Buy the T handle, it's cheap and easier to get the tap started straight, and every tool box should have one.

Do not use any oil. The tap will go thru like a hot knife in butter anyway, oil will just make the cuttings harder to clean up.

Wear safety glasses or those cuttings will get in your eye. Painfully ruining your day.

When started any shavings will pass harmlessly thru the turbo and exhaust. Wheel is inconel not steel, fwiw. Takes heat very well but bends easy.

X2 with Walleye hunter, do not tap too deeply. Assuming it's the same tap that came with my RR kit, stop about halfway and test fit the EGT fitting. No sense running the fitting all the way into the exhaust flow.

 

Sounds easy enough then. I will order the kit and a handle this week then give her a go when they come in.

 

If you have an oops moment and have a loose fit, conduit nuts use the same NPT threads as do pipes and can be used as lock nuts as long as you can match sizes.