They make it easy but those valves have a habit of finding things to hit... Living in MN where snow mounds often end up being a lot of ice.......... Yeahhhhhh, those things are bad news.

Just going down the road isn't an issue, but even something as simple as turning into your driveway after a snow plow has gone past can become a big issue quick with anything hanging down off the oil pan.

 

Your front axle is going to hit anything first, I live in New England and have had a Fumoto on multiple trucks with no issues. I have never second guessed it.

 

I just don't trust them...

In most cases you are fine, I just don't trust it. I do love them for the block drain plugs though! Makes doing coolant flushes SOOOOOOOOOOO much easier.

 

I have the exact same reservations as Crazy, but I decided to try out the lower profile version fumoto valve with the "S" at the end (F111S) instead of the one with the full length nipple with "N" at the end of the part number (F111N). When I get the oil drained out I'll check fitment to see how low it hangs down. No lift on my truck, but it is 4wd and it sits a little higher than some of the other F250s out there. Should be here in a couple days so I'll report back when I see how that looks and if I decide to keep it on there before I refill with new oil.

 

Mine was the F111, with no nipple so it has a low profile. Looking forward to the next oil change with just a flip of the switch.

 

Finally took the time to change the warped brake rotor. Got some serious shaky braky, should be all good now!

 

On another note, can someone tell me off hand where the high beam and low beam headlight relays are located? I wired up a small "spider" that turns on low beam and fog lamps when switching to high beam on the 03-07 GM trucks.

I want to do something similar to my Super Duty. Checked owner's manual for relay locations but couldn't find it... might have to look on the truck!

 

today learned that I probally need 6.4 rocker arm / 6.4 push rod replacement. all the symptoms are there. started a thread about doing it myself.

doesnt seem to expensive...with the exception about the open question of neededing to replace the fuel rail (one time use? and is the first step in rocker arm removals)

Cant say Im a diesel mechanic, but in my previous life I've rebuilt gas and turbine engines, power train systems, transmissions, etc. I dont think its rocket science and am looking into doing it myself. will probally do all the rockers and all the rods to be done with this for a few miles. truck has 86K so its a little early for the 100K watch for rocker problems.

anyone been there done that...how long does it take to remove an entire bank of rockers / rods, and re-install?

 

Had a guy re n re new turbos for me. He did good at under 5hrs for the complete job. I didn't want to tackle that job but I did add upfitter switches to my duty today. It was kinda like tying your shoelaces with boxing gloves on! Lost a bit of knuckle skin but they are good to go now!

 

New high mount brake light, added weather stripping to keep from leaking. New driver window switch, new driver power seat switch, new S&B CAI, new Livewire TS, and new oem radio.

 

Whos tunes are you running?

 

Custom written by a local diesel performance shop. Street tune adds 65hp and performance tune adds 120.

 

My turbo is maxing out PSI and no power. Makes a rumble/grinding noise when slowing down rpms. sounds like the impeller is rubbing to me, but I don't know. I just replaced the transmission and now this starts a week later. Any advice, or am I now due to rebuild the turbo? she has 185k on her. 2008.
side note, I filled up the other day and noticed it was biodeisel after pumping a tank full in. Getting codes of Turbo Performance and Emissions Test not complete.

 

Gearhead has some great tunes! They run very clean!

 

As it turns out I thought they had a local guy writing tunes but it ended up being Vivian at Quick Tricks that wrote my tunes.