The hose going from the accumulator to the compressor in my 94 Explorer is all greasy. The technician at Meineke said it was probably leaking, which would explain why my a/c isn't as cold as it used to be. I had the freon recharged two years ago but now it's back to blowing not-so-cold air.

Replacing the hose would cost around $450. Ouch! $275 for the hose + $100 for labor + $75 for the R134 extract & recharge.

How hard would it be to replace it myself?

I'm no expert but I've replaced a fuel filter using that special coupling remover tool, replaced brake shoes/pads and shocks. Just basic stuff, really. I saw an a/c hose assembly listed on autozone.com for $120. Is that all I need? Will I need additional parts?

Do I need to bleed out whatever is left of the R134? How many cans of R134 would it take to refill it? About $5 a can?

Can someone who has done this share the experience?

Thanks!

 

That hose price sounds high. Go to http://www.ackits.com and see if they list it.

You'll have to have the refrigerant recovered before you start replacing the hose.

Check all your other connections for leakage, and if any are found, repair them or replace the o-rings as necessary with new ones. Have the system leak checked, evacuated and refilled.

 

You make it sound so simple. What about recharging the R134? Is it like connecting a few hoses and opening a valve until the can empties out?

 

To do it correctly, you need a set of gauges. Your system requires a predetermined amount of 134, as stated on the A/C info decal under the hood, or the shop manual. You don't just "add until the can empties out".

 

I think the $450 indicates a certain amount of greed.
I'd try to find the hose elsewhere, and pay to have someone to recover the R134, install the hose, evacuate the system and recharge.

You can do almost all of this yourself, it isn't rocket science but there are rules about you handle R134a.

Don't want to get you in trouble with the EPA!

 

Like what?

 

EPA say's don't vent to atomosphere.

 

This is certainly something you can do yourself. You will need:

1 set of R-134a manifold gauges and hoses
1 vacuum pump
Proper amount of R-134a refrigerant per manufactures specs
new hose
new accumulator/dryer $57.00 (Advance Auto Parts)

I know you can get the hose cheaper then 275.00, I just found one on www.partsamerica.com for 195.00.

You can get the pump and gauges from:

www.mvpro.com

and the refrigerant from Napa, Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc.

If there is any refrigerant in the system, you must go to a shop and have them remove it. It is unlawful to vent any refrigerant into the atmosphere. It is true that R-134a does not deplete the Ozone layer, but it does significantly contribute to global warming and ground level ozone (which is a health hazard and is ugly).

After the system is evacuated, replace the hose. It usually takes two wrenches and a little elbow grease. The accumulator is going to be hooked to one end of the hose and it should be replaced as well. There is desiccant in the accumulator and it is a really good idea to replace it when the system has been opened. Any moisture in the system is REALLY BAD.

That leads to the next step. After the accumulator and hose are installed, you need to connect the low side gauge to the connection on the low side port. Connect the service hose from the manifold gauge set to the vacuum pump and pull a vacuum to 29"of mercury (it will be indicated as a negative movement on the low side gauge). Close the valve and shut the pump off. Let the system sit for 5 - 10 minutes. Make sure the vacuum pressure on the system stays constant. If it starts to drop then you have a leak somewhere in the system and need to address that before recharging.

Turn the pump on again and pull a vacuum for at least 45 minutes un-interrupted. The longer the better. The idea is to get all the moisture in the system to evaporate out, remember, MOISTURE IS BAD.

Lastly, with a vacuum still on the system (the pump should be removed and service hose disconnected), start charging the system through the low side port. Be sure not to turn the can upside down. You do not want liquid on the low side of the system. Charge the system with the recommended weight of refrigerant. Follow the specific instructions on the bottles of refrigerant.

Good Luck

 

I don't need to do the entire conversion thing. Just the recharging of the R134. I did get one of the recharge kits. It was pretty simple after all.

As far as the leaky hose goes, a $30 recharge kit once every two years is much cheaper than a $450 hose replacement. I don't plan on keeping this truck for another 10+ years.

Thanks.

 

propellerhead,
You make two false assumptions here:

1). The leak characteristics are linear, in fact they never are. For example in the begining - time 0, there was no leak. Then at time 1 - (we'll assume you are there now), there is a leak. Since the rate of leakage increased between time 0 and time 1 is it not logical that the rate of leakage will increas over time?

2). That it is OK to knowing have a system that vents R-134a to the atmosphere.

Just my $.02

 

I haven't totally given up on getting the hose fixed. It only dropped a few notches down in my list of things. But the bigger driving factor is -- we are actually looking at trading her in for an Expedition.

How different is a slow leak of R134 from a car dripping motor oil or engine coolant?

 

I'm not trying to 'take your inventory' on this at all.
I know that the EPA is real sensitive about the greenhouse / ozone killer gases as opposed to 'killing the fishies'.

I doubt that you would get caught and so the choice is yours and yours alone.

BTW - I really like the Expedition, my only complaint is it doesn't come in a diesel - but that is a topic for another day.

 

Your points are well taken. I'm not a tree-hugger, but I like to keep this earth clean too.

 

Radically different. No one has shown any evidence of problems caused by releasing 134 at a slow leak, but a drop of engine oil can contaminat several hundred gallons (if not more) of ground water.

I'm not advocating venting R-134a, but it's not in the same league as engine oil or coolant.

 

That "Hose" is the manifold hose assembly, consisting of the low side hose, the manifold assembly, and the liquid line all in one assembly, which is why it is more expensive. I have repaired hundreds of explorers and rarely find one that isnt leaking at the compressor front seal, trash in the orifice tube from compressor failing. If you arent going to have it fixed right just refill it untill it fails completely and you get the whole ball of wax at once for the tune of about 1200.00. Or you could go to your local dealer and get a 35.00 AC diag and have them give you a complete analysis of the system. Its your money.