Yeah, I have been looking for over 3 years for a 6.4 The CHEAPEST one I found was a stripped out work truck in AZ that needed 4 tires and a bed side for 12k. Hell I have seen empty cabs on Ebay for 5-6k

As for the bus Idea, I have been in the search for one of those even longer. 2 years ago I bought a 93 IH dump truck for 3k to pull the motor but it was just too nice to part so i sold it for twice what I paid for it. I just picked up my DT for 1300 last month. Wish I had whole truck for some of the engine mounts


As for putting a 2011+ bed on your truck it is a direct bolt up. The problem is the fuel door is the big rectangular one instead of round. AND the wheel wells have the built in flare. It is a dead give away to me. It sounds like you live in a rust free area(I wish I did ) the 08-10 beds should still be plentiful and cheap. We have to pay 2200 for a 11+ bed.

As for the nose, I have seen it done, just don't know where. To me the 8-10 has the best looking sheetmetall out of all the SuperDutys

 

Yeah I read the bed is a direct fit, asides the fuel door which isn't a big deal.
Just wondering about the front panels, grill and hood.
If it's a major project like the earlier trucks with frame cutting and such, forget about it, but if it's easy, I might do it to make use of the box.
It's not rust free here, it's pretty bad, but not as bad as some places.

I also think the 08-10 trucks look the absolute best, but when they first came out, I thought they looked ugly as sin.
So Should I give the 11+ look a try if it's easy? poll? lol.
I just know I haven't found a 08-10 box for the same price as the newer style.

The cab body is 100% identical I think? Just different box and front?

 

Yup scouring the internet, can't find jack shnitzel on 2011+ front panels and hood on a 08 style truck.
Lots of 1999-2007 swaps to 2011+ body panels, but nothing on 2008-2010.

 

 

So yeah,

I don't know why the truck was thought to have a broken crankshaft?
Looks like the bolts just sheared off that hold the damper/pulley on.

Dropped the oil, it was dirty but no metal in it.
Turned the flywheel with a long screwdriver, front of the crankshaft turns.
Pulled codes, nothing much at all other than communication error to glow plug module.
I'm now thinking there is nothing wrong at all with the engine or crankshaft, and that the sheared off bolts are the only issue here.
I might try to start it tomorrow if I have time.

 

I just finally had some time to check this thing out today, and I took out the steering stabilizer, (more like DESTROYED it trying to get it out), and thats when the damper pulley fell out, and I noticed the bolts still stuck in the crank out the front.

Who ever diagnosed or looked at it, never took anything apart obviously, or else it wouldn't have been sitting in there lol.

I think the fan has a few little knicks on it from hitting it, and the belt ripped apart, looks like it caused a rip in one of the coolant hoses. No overheat codes in the truck though.

 

Wondering...

What if I put these fender flares:
Ford OE Style Fender Flare Set of 4 | 20918-02 | Bushwacker

And then a 2011+ box ?

And put these fender flares on the box ?
http://bushwacker.com/fender-flares/...set-4-20932-02

 

Hey, just for conversation sakes, what the heck is this....

Box looks 2011+ style, but sans airplane hanger size fuel door?

 

LOL, you fell in S H I T on that one. broken harmoncer bolts!!!

Again, I WISH

 

i think parkland need a 2 week "vacation" for rubbing that in our faces.
what think you Brad??

 

should i try starting it without the/ pulley/balancer on?

 

you could, but i would remove the broken bolts, put the balancer back on, and video it running and maybe even driving. that will bring a lot more money selling a running driving engine trans combo than a not running with balancer bolts broke in the crank engine.

 

Biggest problem so far, tearing away at the 6.4 engine bay a little, and the driver side battery hold down screw was previously stripped.
I tried hammering a smaller socket on it, but didn't work.
Tried putting vice grips on it to break it loose, but the stupid screw is like 4" long, so it just flexes instead of breaking loose.

I need like a reverse easy-out lol.

 

I was thinking about it today, looking at the dt360, looking at the 6.4, and I think I might attempt to use the compound turbocharger setup from the 6.4, on the dt360, if I can. (if it will fit, work etc.)
I know guys say the 6.4 compounds run high back pressure, but I have only seen it with the vanes partially closed, which makes sense.

Some major benefits here; first of all I have them already.
Then, if I do need more boost, I can buy upgrades.
I wont need to custom fabricate much more than a mount.
6.4's make similar power with a tuner and stock turbo's to what I'm aiming for, so it should be in the ballpark and with the VVT housing, WILL work great.
BUT, I wonder if mounting the compound turbo setup sideways will cause issues? Maybe oil won't drain when shut off? Maybe vibrate the **** out of them leading to early death?

How could I control the VVT setup?
I'm thinking a air actuator, plumbed into the intake, and the more boost pressure, the harder it pushes the vanes open to make less boost.
And then, connect a cable from the throttle to a spring to the same actuator, so the harder you push on the throttle, the more boost has to be present to relax the vanes.

If that makes no sense, picture how some other guys rigged it up on cummins 5.9 mechanical engines; using a wastegate actuator to work the VVT lever.... All it is is an air actuator, with a spring. Low boost = vanes more closed, trying to build boost; then when boost increases, pressure overcomes the spring in the wastgate actuator, and opens the vanes more and more.
I'm basically thinking the same concept, only using the throttle position to adjust the spring rate.

So basically foot off throttle, it will aim for making 0 psi of boost, half way throttle would align it to make about 25 psi, and to the floor should net about 50 psi, just roughly for example.

This has it's own inherent problems, mostly that the fuel delivery won't be totally linear with throttle position; there are fly weights and other stuff in the pump, that are going to change the fuel flow characteristics, so foot to the floor at 1000 RPM probably isn't going to push the exact same CC of fuel per rotation as at 2000 RPM.
But, I think theres hope, if the boost is linear to the throttle position, the aneroid on the injection pump should help meter the fuel to a degree to the boost available.

This should give the engine super duper low end power, which is what I was aiming for, and the big sled pulling turbochargers have not a chance in hell of delivering.
As soon as the throttle is floored, the spring should push the VVT closed to build boost, and it won't let off until it reaches 50 psi (if it's to the floor. ) This has the potential to run wicked lol.

This should really help the truck run clean, if the injection pump is a little hot on the low end. Instead of living with smoke, or only running high RPM's like some guys do with modded injection pumps, and giant turbo's, I should be able to tune out the smoke with boost.

Also I should be able to use an electric air solenoid, and hook up to one of the upfitter switches, and use it as an exhaust brake. Turn the switch on, the air solenoid vents the pressure from the tube going from the intake to the actuator and spring, That bugger in essence sees 0 psi of boost, and closes, thus acting as an exhaust brake.

I'm really thinking of going for it, provided running the 6.4 turbo assembly sideways is a recipe for disaster. Or maybe it can fit a different way... too early to tell.

 

If you have a good 6.4 why would you put in DT360?

I like a 360, but if I had a 6.4 that worked, there would be no way I would remove it

I would get the broken bolts out of the crank, put balancer on and fire it up. If all is good, DRIVE IT