Got a 02 7.3 cc lb. Afe stage 2 intake,4in turbo back exhaust, edge cs with juice attitude. Looking to upgrade the turbo wheel and also whats the pros/cons of ebpv delete? Was thinking the wicked wheel 2 but is that the best one? I also have a cfm
intake manifold I haven't put on yet, not sure if its worth it but it came with the truck.

 

Welcome to FTE. The EBPV delete is the thing you'll likely notice the least benefit from unless your EBPV is currently leaking oil The WW2 or a ported housing would be the top of my list to deal with surge issues.

 

I cant even remember what the ebpv does lol, its been awhile, but no mine doesn't leak, my trucks in real good shape for a 02 with only 113k.
is the wheel better than the ported housing, ive read you dont do both since they both fix the same issue.im all for any hp or tq gains I can get or faster boost. I also forgot to mention I have a banks big head waste gate if that matters. What about these boost foolers ive seen. I've basically got the truck the way it is besides changing out the air intake for the afe, It had a low quality one before.basically looking for some good lower budget mods to do while I recover from buying the truck.

 

It closes a flap to increase back pressure coming out of the turbo to aid in warm up or keeping the engine warm at idle when it's really cold out.

They both accomplish similar things using slightly different methods. The wheel is cheaper, which is why it's so popular. It could be argued the ported housing is better, but as long as the mod cures any surge issue, it really doesn't matter which one you use.

Doesn't matter. Won't hurt anything at all.

Great mod if you're having trouble with overboost codes and it defueling the engine when you get on it. If you can't run enough boost , or your programming is set to ignore an overboost, then it really isn't needed.

There are several kits available. Some expensive, some cheap, and DIY instructions are available if you'd rather go that route. It's really not hard to do and you can get all the parts at the local hardware store. Just watch the pricing. Sometimes it's cheaper to just buy a kit from someone else if you can't get the parts cheap enough.

 

Like always Chris - great explanation

Riffraff makes a nice boost fooler with a very clean setup:

OCR - Overboost Code Regulator - Riffraff Diesel Performance

 

This was the easiest thing to install and very effective......

 

Good info thanks. Should I decide to spend more money is there a good turbo that I should upgrade to thats not insanely expensive and would I need to do a fuel upgrade? Also on the fuel subject is there any good budget friendly fuel upgrades?

 

X2! A great item! Easy install. Before installing this, every time I hit 24lbs of boost it would defuel and drop to 12lbs of boost. Now I can hit 30lbs no problem with a stock turbo. Next will be a 38R!!!

 

Looks like a good deal, anyone running that riff raff fuel rail cross over?

 

I have one on my F350, and just got one for my 250 I'm putting on along with a bunch of other stuff. It does quiet the injectors some but I didn't notice it as much as some have. Another thing to think about is gauges, especially if you are gonna boost the HP. EGT, tranny temp, boost, and fuel pressure can really help you make your motor last. Here's a good thread about getting your truck to 100%.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...his-first.html

 

I have the edge cs for gauges

 

Since you have OBDII gauges, here are the 4 you don't have - but want: Left EGT, Right EGT, Fuel Pressure, Boost. I have OBDII, but the boost fooler means I just use it for looking at the small boost. The big boost gauge is on the dash. I have a strange setup - I refuse to have more than three gauges on the dash, so I converted my Fuel Pressure gauge to a FP/boost gauge.

 

I did an EBPV delete pedestal to eliminate leaks AND gutted the valve to clear the restriction in the exhaust. Then an oil crossover line (HPX) and the FRX which combined really quieted things down and gave better throttle response. The injectors will live longer, too! IMHO, Just getting the intake and exhaust cleared out, with a WW2 and the rest close to what you have is the best, cheapest gains you're gonna get. Next up is big money for fuel supply ($600), turbo ($1400), big oil (900), injectors($1500- 2500)!
Good luck, isn't this fun?!