I have a project truck that is a 1979 F250 with what I believe is a 6" lift. (2" suspension + 4" body.

I had a couple previous posts with pics on cross over steering options and dual steering stabilizers, but I though I would start a project thread given the long list of remaining problems

The PO had rebuilt the truck for running the dunes here in MI, but I am turning it back to a daily driver for the summers.

This includes a long list of needed body and interior parts which I get from Ebay or the local junkyards.

The big block is a 71 Continental and the heads are 72 continental best I can tell from casting #. PO said it was a 71 429 small cam w/ Edelbrock 650 manifold and carb. It has Dana 60s w 456 gear lockers (not sure what that means. Also has 38" superswampers and a c6 Trans with shift kit.

With weather turning colder (60F) the truck has been getting more difficult to start in morning. The clear fuel lines drain back to pump.

The choke sticks bad, and I was not able to get linkages to move freely from open position with cable removed.

Question 1: Electric vs manual fuel pumps. On my last toy (VW) I did this conversion. What are most people runniing for a pump? It seams that an electric pump is a good upgrade over the stock.

Question 2: The PO installed a plastic fuel tank. Is this common? The fuel sender joint leaks whenever fuel is higher the the joint. I do not see a way to fix the tank side metal ring without going to a steel tank.
thanks

 

Bump..........

 

First off, we need pictures!

? #1. Unfortunately a lot of replacement parts these days are junk, no matter where you buy them. For simplicity you can buy a QUALITY aftermarket mechanical pump. If you're set on an electric pump then there are some very nice write-ups on FTE about properly installing one with oil pressure switch, relays etc. For what pump to use I really like the Holley Red electric pump, it's a Vane style pump and fully rebuildable. I got mine used at a junkyard 8 years ago and it just now needs a rebuild, just the at least 5 years of daily driver use I put it through is saying a lot for an electric pump lasting and who knows how long it had been used before I got it.

? #2. Are you sure it's an aftermarket tank? Some 79s did come with a Poly saddle tank. Pictures man, pictures. You could swap in a metal saddle tank or may be able to seal the Sender mount. Most aftermarket poly tanks do not have senders so this leads me to believe it's one of the factory tanks.

 

i like my manual choke personally, and as far as the poly tank goes my 79 f-150 has the poly side tank, i put a new sending unit in it and it leaked like you said yours does, the seal happened to move on me when i put it in so i held the seal in with seals all and tightened the big nut back down and no problems.

edit: alot of times if the fuel drops that quick that means you may have an air leak in the system somewhere or i heard it can be from the fuel pump itself but that is just what i heard. if mine sits for a few months it will drop the gas, the po of mine hooked up an inline electric pump, i ran the hot wire up to the battery and i just hold it on the positive mount of the battery until i see fuel fill up the fuel filter and it pops right off. that is the only reason i keep it hooked up.

 

Not the best but hope this helps explain what I have

 

 

 

Take the air cleaner off and take a pic of your carb set up ..

 

Looks like he fuel pump was replaced fairly recently, based on how clean it is compared to the rest of the engine. Failed replacement pumps are quite common.

I would just swap to a new steel tank. I thought you were talking about the saddle tank and not the rear tank. Could also upgrade to the Bronco 34 (maybe it's 32) gallon tank as it looks like you have the 37" frame.

 

I have sprayed the links good to lube them, but choke is still vary hard to rotate. I did verify cable moves freely when disconnected.

I did have a clear filter on previously, and it would be dry after sitting for a day. No signs of a leak, so I assumed it was draining back down through pump.

 

Unless I'm missing it you have no kick down linkage for your C-6 tranny .. Also there is no PVC valve .. Running just the breathers on a daily driver is just going to make a mess in your engine bay .. See here

Also see here

 

I will need to do some reaserch on what you say about a kick down lincage for the tranny. Did you pick this up from the carb pics?

For the PVC, is this the lines on the carb that are capped off?

Tks

 

there should be a metal bar that comes up behind the engine from the trans (its usually blue) that connects to the carb around where the throttle linkage hooks up to. thats the kick down linkage

it doesnt even look like you have the bracket on the carb to hook it to

 

On the PVC just remove the passenger side breather and put a rubber pvc holder there for a PVC valve and plumb it to the big connection center front base of carb





Or this style just make sure it fits your valve covers


This is what you need for the carb http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/.../1000/1483.pdf

Kick down linkage for C-6 auto trans

 

The kickdown linkages are different per Motor and Tranny so make sure you get the right one.

I know I have the Edelbrock Kickdown adapter and should be able to find the linkage pretty easy if you'd like me to. Can discuss cost through PMs but I'll always beat retail.