It's not about the bracket. It's the distance from the frame to your steering box causing extra forces on the mounting bolts. The benchworks bracket is a really heavy duty sucker. 3/8" or 1/2" steel if I remember right, so it's not that. It's the compromise you have to make to run that box that is the problem. You are much better off doing the frame modifications to run a saginaw or a 78/79 4x4 box.

 

Do you have a pic of the saginaw box ?

 

Here is my setup

 

I found an article over on Fordification to convert a Highboy: Ford Highboy Power Steering - FORDification.com

I understand what you mean by needing a drag link PN... the solution in the article above was to cut the OEM draglink, sleeve, and weld it in position.

 

I did not want to hijack so I made a new thread for my answer here.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...a-highboy.html

 

Thanks I appreciate it

 

I converted my '75 highboy with a similar kit but from Ibling Repair and it used the same steering box in the same location.

drag link was 3 pieces: a right hand 1-ton chevy tie rod end (TRE), an adjuster sleeve, and a left hand 1-ton chevy tie rod end.

The tie rod ends were meant to be on a tie rod and not a drag link but they are beefy, work well, and end up being the right length for a drag link.

* 1-ton Chevy TREs do require a new taper, 7.15° reamer.

Tie-Rod and Drag Link ends

On this web page you can see 2 different types of TREs; one with a longer tapered body and the other which is short with no taper in the body. I used the longer tapered type for my drag link (not from this company though)

In the description it says these a different taper than standard 1-ton units so I don't know what reamer is required in that case.

My brother should have the NAPA part numbers from his conversion & I will check with him when he wakes up.

 

Hi
I am trying to do this same conversion. The adjustable drag link I found for this is slightly bigger (taper) and I need to ream it out. How much can I safely ream? It looks like both the arm off the spindle and the pitman each need to be about 1/8inch reamed.
I have a reaming tool and the pitman arm said it is OK to ream, but didn't know about the factory (eom).
Thanks!

 

I was able to build an adjustable draglink for this same system using all ford parts with zero reaming all for much less money than a factory 78/79 replacement. Anybody can pm me and I'll look up the exact part numbers and can get pics

 

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Pittman arm and arm coming off spindle



Part I would need to remove to ream

I don't know what you call this part that goes from spindle to the drag link but it looks to be difficult to remove and I can't get my reaming tool in from underneath
My the hole on my Pitman Arm tapers to 9/16 on top. The Ford spindle steering arm is 7/16 so I either need to buy a different drag link that I got with this conversion kit or I need to ream it slightly