Well, my head gaskets are perfectly OK! No puking or losing coolant but I plan on doing some upgrades to the truck and I want to get this out of the way.

Here's the catch, I will be doing the studs one at a time without removing the heads. I have done tons and tons of reading and it seems everyone who has done it hasn't had any issues with it. Unless the gaskets are already blown or head issues.

I will remove the HVAC box on the pass side and on the driver side I will remove the intake and degas bottle.

Since I'll have the valve covers off if not done-I will be doing the upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs-will try to snap some pics for you guys.

I got the studs for $413 shipped from XDP!

 

I have everything to do mine and have thought about the one at a time procedure... Just kind skeard.. lol

Keep us posted sir!

 

When I did mine, one at a time, I removed the bolts in the recommended reverse torque sequence, installed the stud and torqued to 150 Lbs.-Ft, except for the 4 small bolts along the top of the head. After they were all installed at 150 Lbs-Ft. on one head, I went back and retorqued them to 200 Lbs-FT and then finally to 250 Lbs.-Ft.

I did not remove anything, except the driver side motor mount, to get the last three bolts out of the passenger side head. Jack the front of the engine on the driver's side. Remove the driver side motor mount. Let the exhaust manifold rest on the frame. Remove the nuts holding the passenger side motor mount. Locate a jack just behind the motor and jack the tranny and motor over until the bolts clear. It works well. Good Luck!

Ed

 

I always pull the airbox. Easy to do and makes a world of difference.

 

When I did the studs on my old 6.0 I removed the entire head obviously because they were blown.

I will remove the hvac box-just from past experience made my life so much easier.

I thought the torque on the bolts were 210FT LBS?

 

Tyler, you are correct. I believe I read that the ARP lube changed at some point, and at that time the torque also changed to 210 ft lbs.

 

did mine about 10k ago, 1 at a time no HG. removed the heater box. didn't jack up or remove anything else. torquing a few of the nuts down were tough but doable.

 

Was xdp best price on these ?

 

How did you get the driverside rear bolt in? The one closest to the fire wall?

Yes. I shopped around like crazy and couldn't find them any cheaper.

 

I've blown 2 egr coolers and still on stock hg. Why mess with it if it ain't broke.

 

I am currently running the SRL tune from gear heads but I am really looking to turn it up more. I'd rather do the studs now then worry about it later. More of a piece of mind.

 

I can't see your signature on the phone but if you are that far in and it applies to your year I would update the STC fitting and turbo feed/ drain tubes as well.

 

What's stc fitting and which years need turbo lines addressed? I'm taking mine in to have it "bulletproofed" next month and just want any problem areas addressed.

 

The STC fitting applies to the 2005-2007 trucks and is how the HPOP connects to the branch tubes that feed the oil rails.

As far as the turbo feed and drain tube, there are updates to both you should consider. Trucks built after January 2006 came from the factory with the updated turbo feed and drain tubes from what I remember.

 

Fwiw,,, I did a truck last week that the owner tried the one bolt at a time "trick". Didn't work so well for him. I personally would rather gamble at the casino.

The old arp lube called for 250 ft lbs. That lube wouldn't allow the torque to be consistent,, thus the higher torque value. The "ultra torque" lube arp has out now has iirc a 95% likely hood of hitting the value on the first sequence. I do final torque to 215 with ultra torque. I also lube the studs first,, then both sides of the washer while installing,, then the base of the nut n the threads just before threading them on. You will know if you did not lube enough if they "pop" while tightening. No pops here,,, EVER.