Probably going to go the wood route. My bed has some rust on it and the bottom is thin in a lot of places, and all the mounts are rusted and collapsed. I was going to fix it or replace it, but I can't find an affordable replacement, and to be honest I dont think I want to bother with cutting and welding in new mounts and all. I've been looking at some wood flatbed builds and I'm starting to like the idea. Cheap and functional. The truck is only used for hauling stuff on weekends and stuff, so I dont care about looks, its just a beater.

I do like this build so far out of the ones I've seen, think I'm going to build mine similar to that. The only thing I do want is some sort of permanent wall at the back up to where the glass starts, so nothing falls in between the bed and cab, but I also want either removable sides and tailgate, or better, where I can unlatch it and let the sides and tailgate drop if I want to haul something large that requires just the flat bed. The reason I want the sides is so I can still throw stuff in (and dirt or anything I haul) that is either not able to be tied down, or if its just a bunch of small items that can't really be tied down. I'm looking for ideas on that. The bed will be a tad bit wider than the wheels, so if I do a latch system that just drops and hangs there, it shouldn't hit the tire. I think a latch system would work better than just removable sides that you un pin and remove, because then I have to store them somewhere when not in use. I just dont know what I'd latch the walls to when its in the up position, I don't want stationary posts on the back corners because then its in the way of the full flat bed.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/988683-wood-bed-construction-write-up.html

 

Can't help much on the bed wall part, but I do have a suggestion if you're going the full-wood route-

There are two types of treated lumber- those rated for continuous ground contact and those NOT rated for continuous ground contact. For your main frame that will attach to the frame of the truck, use the "rated for ground contact" treated lumber. It will make the whole bead last a heck of a lot longer.

 

Finally took the bed off. Gonna start measuring and getting ideas for my flatbed build. I may go steel for the base and headache rack, then just wood planks for the floor and (removable) sides.

 

personally, you could save a lot of time and effort and buy a bed from a local truck upfitter.

here is a SRW pickup box delete i did some years ago. Super Duty's are super easy to build a sub frame out of 2"x2" 3/16 tubing and bolt it through the factory bed holes, then weld the bed directly to the sub frame. this way if you ever wanted to put a pickup box back on it you could, thats how we do all ours with pickup box removals.

 

Looks awesome. Ive been searching CL daily to see if I find an affordable one that I like. If not, I was considering just a full wood build. Seen quite a few wood flatbed builds and ppl say they hold up quite well.

the frame looks pretty flat after I removed the bed. Ive seen a few guys used 4x4 pressure treated posts to anchor to the frame, then just 2-by planks long wise for the flatbed floor. Another guy used 2x8s I think for the crossmembers for added height vs 4x4s. Not sure yet what I need on height until I get my brakes done and wheels back on. The 4x4s may work. Im gonna talk to a buddy tomorrow that has a metal shop and gey some prices on that too, if he hooks me up and its not too much more compared to wood, I may build the frame and cross members and headache rack from steel. Otherwise I'll have to stick with wood m

 

typical flat beds will have a 4 or 6 inch long sill running the length of the bed. then 4" crossmembers on top of that with either wood or steel top deck.

The pickups don't have a flat frame like the cab and chassis, this is why they need a sub frame when mounting, because of the hump in the rear wheel section of the frame.

Wood may hold up better down there i have not a clue, if you do make sure its treated and very securely put together, i would take steel over wood any day but thats me.

I can sell a bed (after freight to AK...its a killer) for about $2,900 with headboard. a set-up like i pictured above would sell here for $5,000 installed all day long.

I'm sure there are dirt cheap beds to be had down your way, then you just need to get it mounted and i know you have some skills so i'm sure that could happen.

 

Hahaha I'm looking to spend no more than 500. For what I use it for it would be a waste lol

 

Have you looked at buying an old farm truck with the flatbed already on it? You can buy a junk flatbed truck here for about $500, take the bed off of it and then sell the truck for scrap and make about all of your money back.

 

Yea I check daily, I see a few, some nicer ones for 1200ish, theres a few for under 500, but I'm thinking im just going to build it so I can incorporate a headache rack and everything exactly how I want. Was gonna do all wood, but my buddy today said he will weld me up a nice sub frame then just use wood for the deck. So I think I'll do that. Gonna extend it a tad in the very back, I wanna try and get it as close to 12' in length as I can, so I'll have to move the hitch back also. I'll probably just sell the OEM hitch and just get a square receiver and weld it into the sub frame.

On the headache rack I want to also have a small roof rack attached to it just to put. I want to make it as practical as I can since its just a beater work truck. I think whenever the 5.4 dies, I'll take the v10 from my excursion, and that'll give me an excuse for a cummins swap in the excursion :-)

 

Should a por15 this or rustoleum prime and paint?

 

If it was me I would sandblast the whole thing, rust converter primer, paint and then coat it with oil every year or spray it with a monstaliner type coating.

 

Whats the oil do? Also keep in mind I live in Florida so no snow, this originally came from PA from the previous owner though.

 

The oil just works to stop rust and serve as a protective barrier against moisture. Not as big of a deal in Florida though. Without taking it down to the metal and properly treating it, it will rust through the paint again in no time.

 

Gotcha. Yea I wanna sandblast it and just coat it with something, the rust isnt bad just surface rust that looks like its been painted over once before.

the front part of the frame is gonna have to stay for now until the day comes that I need a new motor, then I'll probably pull the cab and coat it all.

 

I would just knock off the loose stuff, use a rust converter like the Eastwood product (but there are many good brands) then topcoat it with a chassis paint.