Thanks Doug... Again, I have over a 1000 pictures and happy to share any of my experiences. If I don't have a picture, I can always take one. I don't take the time to show or describe everything I'm doing, but if you or anyone see's something is a picture.... or have any questions..... well, just ask. I'll do my best to explain.

Mark

 

Mark, just one question from a newbie. Why do u like the temp and oil sensors in the pans? Cleaner look? Do they function just as adequate? I love your build. It blows my mind that you're so knowledgable. Every hurdle I tackle I have to research the crap out of it instead of just doing it.

 

jrock, I'm not sure what "in the pans?" means? Since you said temp and oil (and left out volts) I assume you mean the left cluster gauges in the recessed dash? I'll assume that's what you meant for my answer/response (but please correct me if I'm wrong). I have several reasons... 1) the original had a 4 gauge cluster, 2) It's much cleaner with 4 gauges in one small area, 3) there's not much dash area to add gauges and since I'm also adding the other 4 gauges mentioned above, it was the only way to go for me and lastly 4) I chose those four because each is vital for early warning of trouble/failure. Do they function adequately?.... well yes... it's the same internals as a single gauge... i.e., it's just packaging.

Know let me address my "knowledge". You're giving me too much credit. What I do have is a natural mechanical ability.... had it my whole life. Like you, I have to research, watch You Tube videos, read instructions, make phone calls, etc. Obviously, you have to weed out the BS and "stuff" that just doesn't apply to a custom, one off, build. The other thing I do, like most custom builds, is plan, plan, plan. I make drawings, layouts, schematics, and diagrams. Being a good visualizer is most helpful.

Hope this answered the question?

Thanks Mark

PS: I'm watching your build also.... you're doing a great job!! I wish I thought of some of the things you're doing.

 

I was referring to the oil temp sensor and tranny temp sensor. Have you bled your brake lines yet? I'm having a few probLet's with mine. Pedal isn't firm. I know it's probably air. I think I might move my wilwood proportioning valve to make the location more easily accessible like yours

 

I just like gauges.... so that's the biggest reason for the trans and diff rearend temp gauges, along with the vac and fuel PSI. I have bled my brakes. even did it twice because of spongy feel. Here's what I think "our" problem is.... it's really not a problem. We're both using vac assist power brakes. I think (and won't know for sure until I start and test drive the truck) it's a natural spongy feel of a vac assist with the engine off. I'll know soon... but that's my hunch. I know one thing for sure, it's NOT air in my lines!!

jrock.... did you bench bleed your master cylinder? If not, it may take a lot of brake fluid while bleeding your brake to remove all air from the master cylinder.

Any brake experts to weigh in?

Mark

 

I did bench bleed the master, and I also haven't started my engine yet. So your response makes me feel much better!!!! I just thought with the engine off, if I press on brake pedal once or twice it would become very stiff like the modern vehicles. What master cylinder are you running? Did you have to insert a depth correction plug so the booster rod would make contact with master cylinder piston?

 

jrock, The typical setup for aftermarket brakes... i.e., Corvette master cylinder. No rod needed as I bought the pwr assist and master cylinder as a package (although, maybe a rod could be installed and I just don't know it?).

Mark

 

Wow Mark, beautiful build, and a well put together build thread. Thank you for sharing it . Even if I could afford it, I wouldn't have the skill to do a build like yours.

 

That is a sweet build. I'm interested in the chassis. My son wants to build a 48 or 49 F1 hotrod. Since he has less time than I do, I suggested "buying some time back" by getting some of the really time consuming items done outside by other people. Some of the things that I spent time on were the frame, the rear end, and setting up the suspension. It appears that the chassis went really well for you!

That is a really nice truck!

Dan

 

In my opinion, a new modern chassis is the only way to go. Just be sure to coat the inside and out with quality corrosion products right after receiving it. Total Cost Involved provided me a good package deal and quality product. I had not fitment issues. In fact, I'll be doing a 50 F1 soon for a friend and have already ordered another one. There new custom IFS package is to die for.

Thanks for your comments. .... Mark

 

Mark, thanks for posting the dash and gauge pic's. That was great,and what I was looking for. Looking forward to the final pic's.

 

With "most" of the exterior complete (still waiting on tailgate final paint and bed wood being cleared), I'm focusing on the interior.





As you can see, the ABS headliner is installed, multi-functional rear-view mirror (temp, compass, rear camera, self dimming), windshield, wipers and sun-visors. Note the garage door (home link) in the head liner and clock.





I installed a later model dome light, the security systems 2-way antenna installed on rear glass and ss screws attaching the ABS liner. The ABS liner also covers the rear of the cab below rear window and then I covered.





Here you can see the carpet cover and 3 point seat belt installed.





Starting the rear carpet with bating insulation/sound proofing pre-installed





With rear carpet in place, the center console installed with wire installed.

I'll show more detail later... stay tuned

Thanks Mark

 

Wow, very nice. Looking forward to more updates. Great stuff!

 

I spent most of Saturday (yesterday) connecting my security system, console shelves, wiring, master door lock/unlock sw, etc. I'm using my security system to lock my doors when "armed" and unlock doors when "unarmed". I also want a single master rocker switch in my console to lock/unlock the doors. My electric locks have two wires, blue and green. To lock, the blue wants +12v and green (-) chassis ground.... and reversed for unlock (Blue - and Green +). Here's what I came up with. The center console will house all the wires, switches, security master control unit and input components (shock, tilt, glass brake). So I needed some "shelving".... not pretty, but functional.




I first made some shelving. Note the carpenter's pencils epoxied in to hold top shelf. On the middle, long shelf, is a Piazo siren, master security control unit. The other "stuff" will be mounted on the top shelf. In the lower left is a battery backup battery and a power control unit to manage the trucks main battery input and the backup battery. To the lower right, you'll see a set of relays to control the doors electric locks.... more on them below.



On the top shelf, I mounted the tilt sensor (bottom) the glass break sensor (middle) and double shock sensor (top). The mic connected to the glass sensor will be mounted to the back of the console, out of sight, but clear open to hear any glass break.



This shot shows the two relays and master lock/unlock switch. The diagram below shows the logic I used to make the switch and the security control the electric door locks. My locks have a blue and green wire. When B+ & G- is applied, doors locks and vise-versa, B- & G+ doors unlock.



I crammed a lot of info on the sheet. The top left shows how a relay works for those not familiar with a relay. Feel free to ask questions or Google relay for details. +12v constant is connected to pins 85 and 87 on both relays. Chassis ground is connected to both pins 87a and the master lock/unlock switch. When a (- ground) hits pin 86, +12v will be sent to pin 30. Otherwise, pin 30 has - ground. This in turn will supply +/- to the appropriate door locks.

Before the console is complete, I'll put permanent supports to replace the pencils, the unhook each wire and apply wire wrap. Each wire was cut to length... I then connect everything and test. Once tested, I disconnect, wrap and attach as appropriate. The console frame will have covered panels and topped with a BMW S3 tray and arm rest. The console will run from the back of the cab, past the shifter and up/under to the lower dash.

Well, that's Saturday's report... Today... front carpet and start the console panels to close the console frame in. I focus on the drivers side, leaving the passenger's side of the console open for any "last minute" items. This way I can get the drivers seat in, steering wheel on and test drive.

Stay tuned. Again, any comments, questions, etc. welcome. I do learn from every one.

Mark

 

Hey Mark,
Looking great!

I'm a few weeks ahead of you on the interior install (see attached). I started building a lower valance for the dash out of aluminum, but didn't get too far, yet - want it to cover some of the wiring at the bottom of the dash. I might be a buyer or a tester of yours

My plan was to build mine from 2 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum and bend it to follow the curve of the dash (but be installed vertically). Then I'd glue some dense foam and shape it and then have it upholstered with the same material as the seat. It'd attach to the bottom of the dash by horizontal tabs bolted to the bottom of the dash via threadserts.