Hello again,

I want to apologize first for not having done really any troubleshooting first, but I dont have the time at the moment. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated though, even with the little I know there is to work with.
I got in my truck to go to work today, turned the key and I got the infamous click, but no turn over. I tried it again, and the same thing. I started to fiddle with the ignition to see if I could get it turn over, and then something really nice happened. After the last click, I went back to the off position, but when I went back to the run position, nothing happened. No warning lights, no radio, no nothing, so I kept trying it, but no dice. For a little bit, I could put in run and leave it there for about 10 seconds and then the dash would come alive again, but still the click and no start. Then I couldnt get the dash to come back on at all, no matter how long I left the ignition in run. I had an extra ignition, swapped it out, no help (no suprise, either). I couldnt troubleshoot any further because I had to start steppin it out to work. I plan on jumping the relay to see if the starter works, but it wont quit pouring rain. I tried rapping on the ignition switch under the dash, but no help.
The battery, alternator, and battery cable terminals (not cables), are new. Im thinking its the ignition switch, but im not ruling out the starter (still original), until I jump it. I havent checked the cleanliness of my connections or my cables yet. As of right now, im a walkin' dude. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks in advance,

Chris

 

A bad starter wouldn't keep the lights in the dash from working.

 

It sounds like either the switch, or a bad ground wire somewhere. It is possible that the ground to the ECM is loose. By leaving the key on, it might have shorted out completely.

My first guess would be the switch.

If that isn't it, start tracing ground wires from the ECM.

But, it is also possible that the starter shorted out and drained the battery. I had a boat that was infamous for having the starter "freeze" up and it would drain the battery in a matter of minutes.

So, I guess, I would:

1. Check voltage at battery (no real way to check amps unless you have the tools)

2. Check switch. You can do this by turning the switch to 'ON' or 'RUN' and checking the voltage at some 'switched' power lead like the radio. Have a partner turn the switch to start, and see if you get power at the solenoid.

3. Someone else was having similar problems, in that some days the truck would run and other days it wasn't doing anything. It ended up being the ground wire to the ECM that bolts to the firewall.

 

I'd also check your actuator rod. I had a VERY similar situation happen to me... the "internal" rod in the column itself broke, and the long rod that went down to the switch kept bending and not fully engaging. It would move the switch a lil' at a time, but EVERY time...

Luke

 

Thanks for all the ideas everyone. Im gonna print this out and keep it for future reference. When I got home, I unhooked the battery cables and put a multimeter to the battery. 12.6 volts. I took the battery cable terminals apart. The areas where the cables connect to them was all corroded and had paint still on them. I brushed em shiny. Then I brushed all the relay connections and terminal connections and cleaned up the ground connection at that crossmember, and also cleaned the connection at the starter. I dont know exactly where the dash lights get their power from, but it worked. Truck started like a champ. I also brushed the ends of the battery cables clean. They were pretty corroded looking. So im gonna get me some new wires and replace them, cause they cant look much better under the shielding. Ive started it three times so far, and it started just like a Ford should. Hopefully this will fix it good. Thanks again for all the suggestions.

I have a couple of questions though if yall dont mind. What is the small terminal with the push on connector on top of the starter relay for? and What is that really small ground wire that goes from the negative battery terminal to a spot just behind the grille for? Sorry to be such a pest...

Chris

 

You're not being a pest - this is what the BBS is for.

The small terminal on the starter relay is the wire from the ignition switch. When you turn the switch, power flows from the battery, thru one of the ring terminals on the front post of the relay, thru the wiring harness to the ignition switch, then back thru that small wire, thru the windings of the relay, to the fender (ground) and back to the battery thru the big black wire bolted to the frame AND thru the smaller one that goes to the core support. The magnetic field that results from electricity flowing thru the relay's coil pulls a ferrite slug connected to a LARGE copper washer inside, which hits the heads of the 2 large posts, shorting them together. This allows a LOT of current (like 150-300A) to flow thru the starter motor, spinning it & the engine.

The little black wire is just an auxiliary body ground wire.

 

Thanks. I sure appreciate the expanation. There's nothing I hate worse than when something breaks and I dont know how it works completely. I appreciate all the help. I hope I can help yall in the future.

Chris