This thread lays out the benefits and lists the micron numbers and how they are calculated.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-install.html

 

If it were me, I wouldn't want to guess, especially at $25.00 to $42.00 per filter! And asking anyone else is still guessing, because everyone's truck is slightly different by this age... different sag rates of springs due to operational fatigue from different driving styles, loaded weights, "leveling kits", "lift kits" etc.


I'd personally measure the distance between the frame mounted bump stop (the "bottoming out stop") and the top of the axle at the cast spring caps. Let that be distance X, which will vary depending on the age, type, and rating of the trucks specific pair of springs, and the weight of the truck on the front axle.


Then, I would add 3/8" for compression of the rubber bump stop.


Then, I would add an amount equivalent to the amount of caked on mud observed to cling to the sway bar from time to time until cleaned off.


Then, I would modify the above addition with the amount of hard packed, snow, ice, or icicles that may stay frozen on the sway bar if operating in those conditions.



So I might end up with something like:


"X" + Compression of Bump Stop + Probability of debris clinging to sway bar + Desired Comfort level for free Clearance to bottom of Oil Filter = a new number I'd call "Y."


I then would take a small square with the short leg resting on top of the sway bar and the longer leg oriented vertically next to the existing oil filter, and measure "Y" upward from the top of the sway bar along the vertical leg of the square.


With "Y" marked on the vertical leg of the square, I'd measure upward from "Y" to the bottom (gasket surface) of the oil filter base, and call that distance "Z".


Distance "Z" would end up being the maximum allowable length I'd want for an oil filter.

 

HA HA very funny

 

Last oil change I noticed the Donaldson on mine got "clearanced" on the sway bar. I reckon during an off road escapade but I cannot say where or when. See pic. At first I was not concerned, the filter appeared to have conformed easily and did not even crack the paint. I put another on since I had it. But on reflection I cringe at putting the filter mount thru such abuse. IIRC it's just an aluminum casting and busting that off would be an quick and messy halt to the festivities. The front springs have a slight negative arch, common enough on these, and combined with some articulation... unlikely but potential badness. Not sure where my comfort level is with that.

New blue part # is DBL7405, btw.

 

My $0.02 FWIW...

I run the LF691A and have since about 24k miles. I change the oil and filter every 5-6k and haven't had any oil-related issues. No smoke, minimal oil consumption (maybe a quart between changes).

I have 440k miles now and still running strong.

I'm in the process of setting up a bypass system using the Donaldson filter. And I know, why not just use the Donaldson? I just like the idea of double filtration :-)

Anyway, the LF691A has served me well. Holds about a quart more than stock.

--Scott

 

Something to think about.
I just read through a related post.

 

Holy Smoke.. That thing needs some sort of bracket to support it from vibrations. Not to mention that one "wood chuck" Or "skunk" could shear it off. At least on my lower 2wd truck and my back roads

- t6 and motorcraft 1995 filter . 10k miles intervals (or once a year). Working well for us..


Although i am interested in the bypass set up.. But i have some questions about oil pressure, have to read up on first.

 

This is a point which generally does not get discussed, but it is the first real issue I ran across when researching available systems back in 2007 when I bought the one I use. There are some systems which will bypass as much as 10% of the oil flow, and if the bypass line is too long, it can result in robbing some critical pressure from the system. The one I chose reported a bypass rate of only 5%, and that is why I chose it (along with quality of build, price, etc.).

Essentially, what I discovered is that you should mount your bypass filter as close to the ports as possible to minimize pressure drop, and that becomes increasingly important with higher bypass flow rates. I have pictures in my gallery of how I mounted mine almost directly across from the stock filter on the inside of the DS frame, and I've never suffered a problem with low pressure.

 

Ok I give up. I went back through the thread and I cannot find where you actually mentioned the name of the one you use.


What bypass oil filter head and filter do you use?

 

I just see so many threads with high mileage psd's with regular Dino oil and standard filters . Some at 10k intervals and some at 5k interval oil changes . All over the map. . The high mileage that dad and I will never see. Makes me wonder , why bother! And putting in a lower micron filter over my mc1995 . We run 10k with mc filters and t6. Oil results came back on both saying "keep going" a few years back. but we don't go farther . We change . And we never retested after that . Just seems it is tinkering money spent ! Maybe I am wrong , and probably. I just can't convince myself to Install the bypass . But it interest me because I like tinkering and installing such stuff .

 

Sorry... typing too fast and not thinking enough. I guess it was a separate thread somewhere else when I mentioned that I'm using the OilGuard system. However, the OilGuard EPS20 system is the EXACT same as the Racor LFS801 system. For my second system, I built my own system by purchasing the Racor parts directly but made one change... instead of using the LFS801, I used the LFS802.

Admittedly, the 802 will allow a slight increase in oil flow (0.5 gpm versus 0.4 gpm for the 801), but is also almost twice the size of the 801 and the replacement elements are almost identical in price (literally within pennies of each other). I have really short hose runs to the filter head, though, and have seen absolutely no issue with pressures since installing the larger system on my truck (the original smaller system is running on my Excursion). Also, with the significantly larger filtration surface area, the flow velocity will be much slower through the larger unit and therefore will filter even more effectively and can run even longer.

The only downside I've found with the larger system is that the 802 housing does not have a removable drain plug. I can drill one myself, but just have not taken the time to do so, even though it would be much more manageable as opposed to dropping that 6" dia. x 12" long billet aluminum housing while its still full of oil.

The current Racor 800 series filter elements are also rated at "down to 1 micron" filtration.

 

Thanks for your response Pete.

It should be noted once again for everyone with 4WD that Pete has a 2WD, which affords him room for the near proximity installation he describes of such a large bypass filter, room that is unavailable to those with front drive shafts in the way.

 

Thats where I stand on the matter, too.

You get a TINY increase in actual filtration. If filtration is what you are after, a bypass filter will do much more. If you want 2 quarts of oil for cooling, well then you probably have a cooling problem. Once it gets up to temp it wont matter anyway.

They are too expensive for me to consider for what they do. Motorcraft has sourced a damn fine filter, any additional filtering should be done at the bypass level. And even then, its important to understand that particulates arent the only thing limiting the life of the oil. Filter and filter all you want, eventually that oil will still break down in the HPOP.

Now, if this were a motor NOT know for shearing, and VERY extended intervals could be achieved with extra filtering, I would say go for it.

 

You hit the nail right on the head. There is no reason to mess with the filtration or run synthetic oil on these engines. Dyno oil and a stock filter provides the necessary protection for these engines. Some people like to tinker and modify and that is just fine. But nobody should lose ANY sleep if they are using CJ-4 oil and the FL1995 filter.

The 4.5 and 6.0 engines are a different story though....synthetic oil and the stock Motorcraft filter is a must.....plus RevX. Our 4.5 liter Power Stroke engines won't start in the winter unless they are plugged in over night or they have RevX in the oil. Our techs hang their heads low when they get stuck driving any of those trucks....

 

I am not sure the issue is just that dino works but rather the amount of savings. For the sake of argument let's say you spend 9.00 on a Motorcraft filter and another 60.00 on dino. It would take roughly 69.00 bucks for the first change (14q). Now suppose you use T6 and a 7405 filter, it would cost you about 107.00 for the change (15q). I run about 20k between changes with my by-pass and larger filter(specs say to change by-pass filter every 60k but YMMV). Now if you changed your oil every 3k it would cost you about 414.00 dollars to my 107.00 for the same mileage. If you change every 5k, you would be looking at 276.00 to my 107.00 Now if you look at that over 100k it is about 1375.00 to 585.00 (had to add 50 for the by-pass filter)