Tie Rod Replacement For 1998 Ford e150
#16
What's so wrong with a good used gear out of a low-mileage six cylinder van that was used by a florist, for example? Thirty day warranty, right?
Going further: you should see many of the vehicles getting scrapped these days in my neck of the woods. Written on the windshield: "Won't start." Scrap it. "No keys" Scrap it. It's 'freakin unbelievable what this industry is coming to with all the title pawn nonsense etc. Hell, for the first time ever in my life I recently saw a complete Corvette in a salvage yard. Is nothing sacred anymore? Why just the other day I saw an E150 with fresh calipers, rotors, and brake hoses at a yard.
Perhaps I'm a bit too lazy these days or have more money than sense however scouring a DIY salvage yard to find something, pull it only to R&R the same part on my working van is a lot of work and time I can use elsewhere. Since I order a lot on line it comes to my door and is installed just one time.
I get the economics of gently used parts but time is one of those things I can't buy----have to use it wisely.
#17
We're living in a time when many are prone to toss something out for the most minor of reasons. When I compare what's seen curbside each trash day along with people complaining how expensive everything is these days I become completely confused!
Perhaps I'm a bit too lazy these days or have more money than sense however scouring a DIY salvage yard to find something, pull it only to R&R the same part on my working van is a lot of work and time I can use elsewhere. Since I order a lot on line it comes to my door and is installed just one time.
I get the economics of gently used parts but time is one of those things I can't buy----have to use it wisely.
Perhaps I'm a bit too lazy these days or have more money than sense however scouring a DIY salvage yard to find something, pull it only to R&R the same part on my working van is a lot of work and time I can use elsewhere. Since I order a lot on line it comes to my door and is installed just one time.
I get the economics of gently used parts but time is one of those things I can't buy----have to use it wisely.
#18
I replaced both outer tie rods and the inner center link today. It took about 3 hours including a a 45 trip to pick up the tie rod separator from Auto Zone. The right outer tie rod was in decent shape. However, since the part was so inexpensive from Amazon, it would have cost too much to send it back. Everything including the drag link has been replaced in the past 10,000 miles. The clunking is gone!
I screwed up on installing the tie rods. My steering is about 1/16 to 1/8 turn off to the right and it was not this way before I installed tie rods. I am driving down the road in the one o:clock position. It needs an alignment regardless. Will this get fixed during alignment or will I have to pay big bucks to get it back to 12 O:clock?
I am now bothered with the whining of the power steering unit. I will change the fluid with a pure synthetic to see if that quiets the steering. I found a link in this forum that sometimes solves noisy power steering units. Hey, it still steers! One forum post said to turn up stereo and most of the problems that we hear go away. I think he is trying to tell us to stop sweating the small noises of old vehicles.
I screwed up on installing the tie rods. My steering is about 1/16 to 1/8 turn off to the right and it was not this way before I installed tie rods. I am driving down the road in the one o:clock position. It needs an alignment regardless. Will this get fixed during alignment or will I have to pay big bucks to get it back to 12 O:clock?
I am now bothered with the whining of the power steering unit. I will change the fluid with a pure synthetic to see if that quiets the steering. I found a link in this forum that sometimes solves noisy power steering units. Hey, it still steers! One forum post said to turn up stereo and most of the problems that we hear go away. I think he is trying to tell us to stop sweating the small noises of old vehicles.
#19
My steering is about 1/16 to 1/8 turn off to the right and it was not this way before I installed tie rods. I am driving down the road in the one o:clock position. It needs an alignment regardless. Will this get fixed during alignment or will I have to pay big bucks to get it back to 12 O:clock?
I am now bothered with the whining of the power steering unit. One forum post said to turn up stereo and most of the problems that we hear go away. I think he is trying to tell us to stop sweating the small noises of old vehicles.
I am now bothered with the whining of the power steering unit. One forum post said to turn up stereo and most of the problems that we hear go away. I think he is trying to tell us to stop sweating the small noises of old vehicles.
While its good to investigate any new noise sometimes without going to extremes they'll persist. A whining PS pump could be cured with new/rebuilt but if new fluid does it it'll be okay for the time being. Pay attention to the steering feel, it that begins to change for the worse consider replacement only then.
#20
If you mention the steering wheel misalignment before the alignment they'll try to cure it. Its not uncommon when we DIY replace those parts for the wheel to slightly change position---its not a screw up at all.
While its good to investigate any new noise sometimes without going to extremes they'll persist. A whining PS pump could be cured with new/rebuilt but if new fluid does it it'll be okay for the time being. Pay attention to the steering feel, it that begins to change for the worse consider replacement only then.
While its good to investigate any new noise sometimes without going to extremes they'll persist. A whining PS pump could be cured with new/rebuilt but if new fluid does it it'll be okay for the time being. Pay attention to the steering feel, it that begins to change for the worse consider replacement only then.
The vehicle tracked well down the freeway on my test drive.
Firestone offers life time alignment for twice the price-$238. It used to be about $118 for lifetime from them. I think I will go to Works for $89 and get the 12 month alignment.
The whining on the steering needs to be addresses soon as it has become worse in the 2 years that I have owned the vehicle. With the cost of ATF being about $5 per quart, I may drop in a rebuilt unit once I determine the problem.
#21
My van is aligned and drives straight. Wheel Works gives 10% off on service when you make an online appointment. I paid $79.95 for the alignment They confirmed that my steering box has a lot of play in the notes section of the alignment. They greased the front end for me too at no charge. Over all, I was pleased with their service.
I replaced most of the front end steering components for about $300 including the alignment!
A re-manufactured steering gear is going to set me back about $180.
I may roll the dice with my buddy Dan and find a nice wrecked van. Dan's office is a few miles from Pick and Pull and he and a few of his employees like to go there during the lunch hour to scavenge for parts. There are 4 of us who all have Ford vans. Three of the 4 have E350 extended diesels. I have the light version all around including the 6 cylinder. If one of these guys can find a low mileage wrecked van, they will pull the part for me. It's nice to have motor head friends.
I replaced most of the front end steering components for about $300 including the alignment!
A re-manufactured steering gear is going to set me back about $180.
I may roll the dice with my buddy Dan and find a nice wrecked van. Dan's office is a few miles from Pick and Pull and he and a few of his employees like to go there during the lunch hour to scavenge for parts. There are 4 of us who all have Ford vans. Three of the 4 have E350 extended diesels. I have the light version all around including the 6 cylinder. If one of these guys can find a low mileage wrecked van, they will pull the part for me. It's nice to have motor head friends.
#22
#23
I had the vehicle aligned and the steering wheel is still off a few degrees. There is play in the steering wheel. I need to find out if the play is coming from the Pitman arm, idler arm, or the steering gears.
The vehicle drives so much better with an almost new front end.
The vehicle drives so much better with an almost new front end.
I am chasing all the same problems (clunking noise in steering wheel and loose steering) on my 2005 E150 cargo van with 220 kmi
So far I identified a lose/worn right inner tie rod bearing. I can twist it with pipe wrench and see the play. Should I replace only this right inner tie rod or all tie rods at the same time?
@coolfeet Did you ever find the cause for loose steering?
#24
I know this is an old thread..
I am chasing all the same problems (clunking noise in steering wheel and loose steering) on my 2005 E150 cargo van with 220 kmi
So far I identified a lose/worn right inner tie rod bearing. I can twist it with pipe wrench and see the play. Should I replace only this right inner tie rod or all tie rods at the same time?
@coolfeet Did you ever find the cause for loose steering?
I am chasing all the same problems (clunking noise in steering wheel and loose steering) on my 2005 E150 cargo van with 220 kmi
So far I identified a lose/worn right inner tie rod bearing. I can twist it with pipe wrench and see the play. Should I replace only this right inner tie rod or all tie rods at the same time?
@coolfeet Did you ever find the cause for loose steering?
Replace everything including ball joints when working on your front end.
#25
If I calculate you 220Km to miles it would be about 136K right? At that mileage I don't think it would be 100% necessary to replace everything up front however if the budget permits I'd do exactly that. It might seem extravagant to "fix what ain't broke." but for sheer peace of mind that'd be my first choice. I hate repairing one part of a system for now only to have other issues with remaining parts crop up in the near future.
So far I've replaced every front end part on two different E250's including ball joints---each van has had close to 100K miles each added since that refit and never another problem. I do keep it all lubricated which is another benefit to adding new parts--many of the OEM front end parts don't have grease Zerks, tend to wear out long before those that allow lubrication.
Good luck with your repairs.
So far I've replaced every front end part on two different E250's including ball joints---each van has had close to 100K miles each added since that refit and never another problem. I do keep it all lubricated which is another benefit to adding new parts--many of the OEM front end parts don't have grease Zerks, tend to wear out long before those that allow lubrication.
Good luck with your repairs.
#26
Sorry if I miss-typed the mileage: my van has 220 kmi = 220,000 miles.
I do have metrics background which is often mis-interpreted this side of the pond
JWA, I agree with you, I normally replace whatever I can around the problem area since I don't have too much time and lift access to work on my cars.
I am now shopping for Moogs tie rods etc.
Do you mean the front end parts on your vans last about 100,000 miles ?
Thank you! I was hoping to avoid ball joint work since I cannot fail them and can't DIY them, only tie rods are the suspects at this time.. But will see.
Now I need to learn what the Pitman arm is
I do have metrics background which is often mis-interpreted this side of the pond
JWA, I agree with you, I normally replace whatever I can around the problem area since I don't have too much time and lift access to work on my cars.
I am now shopping for Moogs tie rods etc.
Do you mean the front end parts on your vans last about 100,000 miles ?
Now I need to learn what the Pitman arm is
#27
Sorry if I miss-typed the mileage: my van has 220 kmi = 220,000 miles.
I do have metrics background which is often mis-interpreted this side of the pond
JWA, I agree with you, I normally replace whatever I can around the problem area since I don't have too much time and lift access to work on my cars.
I am now shopping for Moogs tie rods etc.
Do you mean the front end parts on your vans last about 100,000 miles ?
I do have metrics background which is often mis-interpreted this side of the pond
JWA, I agree with you, I normally replace whatever I can around the problem area since I don't have too much time and lift access to work on my cars.
I am now shopping for Moogs tie rods etc.
Do you mean the front end parts on your vans last about 100,000 miles ?
And yes I do mean the Moog parts will last at least 100K MILES!
Pitman arm is the link between the steering box lower shaft to the drag link or center tie rod end. Typically there's no need to replace it IF the drag link hasn't been loose and wallowed out the stud hole.
If you're ever replacing the entire steering box its a good idea to buy a new Pitman arm as they can be absolutely and terrifically difficult to remove and reuse. If you do try to reuse it remove it while the steering box is still mounted to the frame, use a lot of heat and a 10 ton or better gear puller.
Good luck with your repairs Vash---let us know how it goes!
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