Turning rotors
#1
Turning rotors
When doing a brake job do you recommend turning the rotors & what is the minimum thickness - Mine are original with about 58k on them & I just did new rotors -AZone rotors - I kept the originals thinking I might have them turned for the next time. Thoughts & recommendations appreciated. BTW- 2006- E-350 work van
#2
The minimum thickness is stamped right on the rotor, on the hub.
Don't know of any shops that still do that, was a thing years ago, but I think the last time I hear a price, it was like $20+ per, and the cost of new rotors is less that, or about that price, so it kind of went out of practice.
Plus, most rotors I've changed out, were wore down enough, that the cutting would put them below the min thickness.
Don't know of any shops that still do that, was a thing years ago, but I think the last time I hear a price, it was like $20+ per, and the cost of new rotors is less that, or about that price, so it kind of went out of practice.
Plus, most rotors I've changed out, were wore down enough, that the cutting would put them below the min thickness.
#3
It's still possible but rarely doable. Rotors don't come with a lot of extra meat these days. We've got a shop that will turn them nearby and I used them once on a 2010 with a warped rotor that showed up not that long after the warranty. It helped for a few months but ended up replacing the rotor later anyhow. It's rare you'll find a rotor these days that has enough material left to turn. New ones aren't usually $20 but are not super expensive either.
#4
Mine is 2007 E350 superduty and the spec is 1.180 initial thickness, with 1.100 minimum thickness. Fronts. I don't know the spec for rears.
Do you have Oreilly Auto parts near you? They do rotor machining. Also just about and small auto repair shop. Even Sears Auto repair shops.
May I please suggest a theory I've learned in recent months: don't put machined rotors on a car with old pads. The "bedding" between pad and rotor is vital, and if you use a bedded pad on a fresh rotor it will cause shaking brakes within a short time after.
Same with new rotors and old pads.
Lastly, wheel lug nut torque is vital. Do it in stages and do NOT use an impact gun. I torqued mine to about 35, then 80, then 110lb.ft. Star pattern of course.
Do you have Oreilly Auto parts near you? They do rotor machining. Also just about and small auto repair shop. Even Sears Auto repair shops.
May I please suggest a theory I've learned in recent months: don't put machined rotors on a car with old pads. The "bedding" between pad and rotor is vital, and if you use a bedded pad on a fresh rotor it will cause shaking brakes within a short time after.
Same with new rotors and old pads.
Lastly, wheel lug nut torque is vital. Do it in stages and do NOT use an impact gun. I torqued mine to about 35, then 80, then 110lb.ft. Star pattern of course.
#5
Thanks to all for the replies. I will get rid of the old ones then - I bought new Duralast rotors with Hawk pads ,when I did them a couple weeks ago, just wondered if the old ones were worth keeping.The new rotors were $75 each & they wanted $50 each to turn the old ones. Kind of a no brainer to go new, course the quality of the new ones is yet to be seen. Thanks again, Bill
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