I'm starting the wiring on my 1951 F1. The truck is mostly original (restored) with a few exceptions. It is 12 volt. It has power front disk brakes. I might add a T5 eventually. It's considerably cheaper to pick up a 12/3 universal hotrod kit from Rebel or EZ than to buy all the pieces from one of the reproduction places that charge by the piece. Anybody want to tell me why they would go one way or the other?
Ross
My Old Tools

 

Personally, I would go with the universal. Unless you are going for a show piece that will be judged it isn't worth the extra $$$ and more trouble than its worth. Also, considering you have changed out some things already, like the brakes, its more about cost and ease than being stock correct.

 

If you went 12v with an alternator (especially if it has an integral regulator), will have a stereo, electric wipers, a tach, or other accessories, go with a universal. Unless your are bone stock the repro harnesses make no sense, you'd just end up cutting the loom open to add/modify it.

 

Thanks. That's the way I was leaning. It's close to stock, but will never be concours level.

 

I went stock harness on my 53 sedan for two reasons. First, I like that it matches the factory wiring diagram. Second, I don't like how small the wire gauge is on all the reproduction harnesses I see.

 

The smaller gauge wire is the one of the advantages of going to 12V. Lower amperage draw allowing for smaller gauge wire.

 

EZ worked very well on my 52 F-1 and you can get all the tech help you would ever need.
Just tell him what you are trying to hook up and he will tell you exactly which end goes to what.
I'm pretty good with electrical and taught it for several years but I still need the tech help a lot.
TractormanBill

 

The 6V F1, F100s did not use a fuse panel, all the wiring was protected by two breakers. A Universal harness includes a fuse block and 9 or more individual circuits including turn signals, circuits for accessories like sound system, AC, electric wipers, 12V outlets for charging your phone, laptop, etc etc. There is 1/2 the current going thru the wires in a 12V system, so they can be lighter, more flexible/easier to route. The universal harnesses are color coded and/or the wires are labeled every 6". Finally the universal harnesses are a lot less expensive than the repro harnesses. Speedway Motors is another source for universal harnesses.

 

I've used a couple of the Rebel wire kits and they have been top notch, plus they are made here in Tennessee.

 

A slight hijack. Will the universal harness fork for a 6v system? Today's plan is to stay 6v but if a 6v harness is too much more that the 12v I may have to reconsider

 

I bought a unknown universal harness, for cheap, off ebay for my 1953 before I knew any better.I got lucky. It worked out great. For my 1965 I am considering Rebel Wire or StreetRodElectrics.

 

I wouldn't run 6v with a modern 12v harness. As AX pointed out, the 6v harness has bigger conductors to carry the higher current.

 

I am wiring my current truck project with discarded extension cords. Color coded, well jacketed and cheap at yard sales or free because other subs on the jobsites toss them in the trash when an end fails. I love finding the odd colored ones like green and gray to keep my circuits more separated visibly. My trucks also won't be judged at Pebble Beach. I'm not saying it's for everybody, but I've never had a wire failure in 40 years of using them. Of course I use old pieces of garden hose to further protect where it could chafe on frame etc.

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I sent off an email to EZ Wiring asking about 6v harness.
MidFifty has a 6V harness for $525. Compared to $185 for a 21 circuit, that scares me. Gotta do some more research.
Rebel Wire has an 8 circuit 6v for $260. Prices just seem all over the place.

 

If you plan to stay 6 volt, the 8 circuit harness may work for you.

I rewired my truck from scratch and only use 7 fuses in my 14 fuse panel. But I do have 47 wires in the harness using 4 terminal blocks besides the fuse panel. The terminals are so I can easily "unwire" the truck if I pull it apart for paint.

1. 30A ammeter/ignition switch
2. 25A cigar lighter
3. 30A stoplight switch
4. 15A light switch
5. 30A light switch
6. 30A dome light / door switches
7. 15A flasher

Of course your truck may have more circuits, and I have no idea what is included in the wiring harnesses for sale.