Help no start
#1
Help no start
Hey guys. I've got an 07 f250 Harley edition. Arp studs, sct tuner, and well maintained. Truck didn't start this morning. Ficm is good at 48v sync is at 1. My ipr is showing 7-15 and sparatically spikes to 300-400. I changed the ipr to try that since I already had a brand new one on hand. My icp is at 15% before cranking and spikes to 85% during cranking. My thought would be hpop. My gauge on oil pressure on truck doesn't show oil pressure building during cranking. However with the ipr reading 7-15 during cranking I would be inclined to think my lpop is working. It's just not showing on my dash gauge. Please help guys as the hpop is expensive and I don't wanna waste money. This is my first post but you guys have helped numerous times from diagnosing blown heads to finding a bad ficm. Thanks. Blake
#2
Hey guys. I've got an 07 f250 Harley edition. Arp studs, sct tuner, and well maintained. Truck didn't start this morning. Ficm is good at 48v sync is at 1. My ipr is showing 7-15 and sparatically spikes to 300-400. I changed the ipr to try that since I already had a brand new one on hand. My icp is at 15% before cranking and spikes to 85% during cranking. My thought would be hpop. My gauge on oil pressure on truck doesn't show oil pressure building during cranking. However with the ipr reading 7-15 during cranking I would be inclined to think my lpop is working. It's just not showing on my dash gauge. Please help guys as the hpop is expensive and I don't wanna waste money. This is my first post but you guys have helped numerous times from diagnosing blown heads to finding a bad ficm. Thanks. Blake
IPR is def. Way too low. Do you have oem oil filter and cap? What are cranking RPM? Also I would think dummy gage should move unless it was broken if you had good lpop.
#3
Hey guys. I've got an 07 f250 Harley edition. Arp studs, sct tuner, and well maintained. Truck didn't start this morning. Ficm is good at 48v sync is at 1. My ipr is showing 7-15 and sparatically spikes to 300-400. I changed the ipr to try that since I already had a brand new one on hand. My icp is at 15% before cranking and spikes to 85% during cranking. My thought would be hpop. My gauge on oil pressure on truck doesn't show oil pressure building during cranking. However with the ipr reading 7-15 during cranking I would be inclined to think my lpop is working. It's just not showing on my dash gauge. Please help guys as the hpop is expensive and I don't wanna waste money. This is my first post but you guys have helped numerous times from diagnosing blown heads to finding a bad ficm. Thanks. Blake
From what you said you seem to have a pretty good monitor. I would be more worried about the ICP reaching the required 500-550 psi. If the gauge on the dash does not move after a long crank you need to figure out if its a bad gauge (sender) or if you have no oil pressure from the LPOP. Easiest way to do that remove the oil filter and depress the check valve the filter holds down and have someone crank the engine, the housing should fill with oil and you just verified LPOP is good. Your IPR jumps to 85% so You might have a HPOP system leak somewhere. You can also try starting with the ICP unplugged and see what happens. So did you change the IPR or ICP?
#4
I don't have a fitting to blow air into the icp port so I'm not sure if it's leaking however when I removed the icp oil was to the top of the hole. Makes me think it's not leaking there. I have oem filters and caps
#5
Think you have IPR and ICP mixed up. ICP shows HPOP pressure and you need between 500-550 psi to start. IPR is in % and that's duty cycle (basically how much oil its letting thru depending on demand)
From what you said you seem to have a pretty good monitor. I would be more worried about the ICP reaching the required 500-550 psi. If the gauge on the dash does not move after a long crank you need to figure out if its a bad gauge (sender) or if you have no oil pressure from the LPOP. Easiest way to do that remove the oil filter and depress the check valve the filter holds down and have someone crank the engine, the housing should fill with oil and you just verified LPOP is good. Your IPR jumps to 85% so You might have a HPOP system leak somewhere. You can also try starting with the ICP unplugged and see what happens. So did you change the IPR or ICP?
From what you said you seem to have a pretty good monitor. I would be more worried about the ICP reaching the required 500-550 psi. If the gauge on the dash does not move after a long crank you need to figure out if its a bad gauge (sender) or if you have no oil pressure from the LPOP. Easiest way to do that remove the oil filter and depress the check valve the filter holds down and have someone crank the engine, the housing should fill with oil and you just verified LPOP is good. Your IPR jumps to 85% so You might have a HPOP system leak somewhere. You can also try starting with the ICP unplugged and see what happens. So did you change the IPR or ICP?
#6
Recommend you verify LPOP is good via the filter housing then. '07 HPOP rarely fail unless you have the old STC fitting on the HPOP, those blow out all the time. Like KDAVID1 says it could be the standpipes or dummy plugs, rail nipples, injector o-rings. You will need to verify the HPOP system isn't leaking. Oi at the top when you remove the ICP sensor just means the rails have oil in it.
#7
Recommend you verify LPOP is good via the filter housing then. '07 HPOP rarely fail unless you have the old STC fitting on the HPOP, those blow out all the time. Like KDAVID1 says it could be the standpipes or dummy plugs, rail nipples, injector o-rings. You will need to verify the HPOP system isn't leaking. Oi at the top when you remove the ICP sensor just means the rails have oil in it.
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#9
You need a NPT 1/8" threaded fitting that will also fit on the male end of an air fitting.
A hardware store should have it. Just match the threads on your ICP sensor and if you have air tools just disassemble one of your fittings and match them up.
You can also order them from Ebay.
#10
The fitting you need is a M12X1.5 to 1/8" NPT and you can find it at your local hydraulic shop. And my bet is also on the standpipes, dummy plugs and or STC fitting.
#11
Just bought one yesterday, stopped by the International dealer and they wanted over $100.00, went to a hydrolic shop and it cost me $7.00 without the air chuck. I would recommend a short chunk of hose and a ball valve to help isolate the system and make it easier to connect and disconnect the air chuck.
#13
I got the fitting and put air in the system. I can hear air moving (gurgling) sound in the oil fill tube. And also coming from the hpop area. The sound is not loud but I only have 80 psi running to it
#14
#15
No. But I took the valve cover off the passenger side and put the air to it again. I definitely heard a leak then. Sounds like it's coming from the tube off the oil rail. When I unbolted the oil rail it came right off the tube. The tube stayed in the head. Is there an easy way to get the tube out without using pliers. I don't want to mess it up pulling it out