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  #16  
Old 09-08-2014, 08:30 AM
zmt zmt is offline
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Wow, thank you for the very helpful insights. Yes, 70F100, the engine compartment is darn near showroom. And I swear the stutter is getting less frequent and less severe. Is it possible that if they got water down in there it will just evaporate off and nothing else will be needed?

Been out of town and away from computer and vehicle for three days but will check hoses and manifolds above heads for drips this evening.

$10k is more than I paid for the vehicle, so as awesome as that scanner may be, I wouldn't say it's exactly a viable solution.

Finally, even assuming this has something to do with water intrusion and further assuming the symptoms clear up on their own--are you all saying I should go ahead and change the plugs based on mileage alone? Sounds like that's kind of difficult and delicate process--would you recommend taking it to a dealer for that, as opposed to an independent shop?
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:46 AM
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are you all saying I should go ahead and change the plugs based on mileage alone?
You could check with the seller to see if they've already been changed. Not everyone waits the full 100K miles before changing them. Considering the difficulty in changing them, I for one would rather make that phone call first.
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  #18  
Old 09-08-2014, 01:50 PM
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I bought from a small-time dealer, not the owner. But the previous (and original, according to Carfax) owner was allegedly an acquaintance of the dealer. Trying to get the dealer to put me in touch with the owner, but don't have the highest of hopes.
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Old 09-08-2014, 02:24 PM
alloro alloro is offline
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Trying to get the dealer to put me in touch with the owner, but don't have the highest of hopes.
The owner might not be receptive to that, but the dealer could always ask the question for you and let you know the answer.
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:24 PM
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I would go ahead and pull a plug or 2 and see how they look. They tend to break less when the engine is hot. You dont want to keep driving it with it skipping
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  #21  
Old 10-01-2014, 01:45 PM
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I've tracked the misfire to cylinder #8 (unfortunately, since I gather that's the toughest one to reach). There may be others misfiring that I'm unaware of, but because of budget constraints I'm going to go ahead and replace the COP and boot on #8 to see if that clears up the stuttering.

So my next question is which coil/boot assembly I need to buy. Strangely, there's quite a bit of disagreement between the various automated compatibility widgets on the Ford Parts site and other retailers. Some say the 2005 takes a DG-508 (the one with a small angle in it). Others say it takes a DG-511 (straight).

Anyone happen to have a firsthand knowledge? BTW, I am buying Motorcraft, not aftermarket. Just don't know which Motorcraft to get.
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  #22  
Old 10-03-2014, 12:43 AM
Jimmyrun Jimmyrun is offline
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Same issues

I'm having these same issues and same cylinder. It's best to replace all plugs and coils. From what I've read this is a common problem and will continue to be a problem.
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  #23  
Old 10-03-2014, 02:15 PM
pdqford pdqford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmt View Post
I've tracked the misfire to cylinder #8 (unfortunately, since I gather that's the toughest one to reach). There may be others misfiring that I'm unaware of, but because of budget constraints I'm going to go ahead and replace the COP and boot on #8 to see if that clears up the stuttering.
If you are facing budget constraints, swap #8 COP with #7, swap #8 boot with #6, and swap #8 plug with #5. Then retrack the misfire and only change what shows up as bad.
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  #24  
Old 10-03-2014, 07:47 PM
alloro alloro is offline
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Some say the 2005 takes a DG-508 (the one with a small angle in it). Others say it takes a DG-511 (straight).
You could always pull out an easy one and see for yourself, but according to fordparts.com you need a DG-511.

2005 Ford Expedition COP
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Old 10-03-2014, 07:47 PM
 
 
 
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