One more thing...check the wiring to the back of the IPR while it is running and see if it dies or sputters. Mine did this same thing you are describing except I wasn't driving it. It turned out that the insulation had worn off on the inside of the pigtail and they were touching each other and causing havoc. I put heat shrink over each one and have had no problem since. I also will agree that it was a very nice write up and very thorough. That's never a problem here at FTE. This place is full of good guys and good help.

On another note, I will be the first to admit guilt for being a **** on the punctuation for this simple reason. I cannot read 1500 words strung together without a comma or a period or even a cap! Call me a jerk, but if I can't read your post, I won't bother responding. I feel I make the effort, so why can't others? Now I can't speak for the font size. It didn't bother me but that's because I COULD READ IT. I type from my phone and my laptop and try to make a concerted effort to make it as clear and readable as possible to those who might be willing to help me. If that's hurts someone's feelings, wasn't meant to. I more interested in truth than coddling. That's just me though. Moving on.... let us know happens.

 

IF that were my truck..it would get a good caps first. I believed there are probably two issues but the dying and waiting and restart then die...classic caps I'm my pea sized brain.
I'm not good about punctuation.. I'm just trying to express my thoughts so they make since to people other than me lol.

 

I always understand you Aaron...but I am used to reading your texts! LOL!!

 

My texts are akin to hyrogliphics I think lol

 

I have seen trucks do very similar things, turned out to be the electrical part of the ignition switch (top of the steering column above drivers feet) several times I have seen the plastic part partially separate from the metal part but not completely come apart. if that is the case just tighten the tangs holding the plastic part and run a bead of jb weld on the seam. I put the jb weld on new ones anymore to prevent the problem.

looks like this one!

Replacement ARBF506201 Ignition Switch | Auto Parts Warehouse

 

I had left for the day, prior to reading about shaking the IDM and listening for water. I did, however, loosen up the 10mm bolt head on the IDM electrical connector, spray some contact cleaner into the mating surfaces, and then reassemble.

While in the vicinity of the IDM, the truck was started, and every wire that was within a foot of the IDM was shaken, and lightly tugged at. No problems arose. The truck continued to idle smoothly at 600 rpm.

Disconnected the ICP, and then tried to start the engine. It fired right up, and ran smoothly. During this time, the CEL came on.

Turned the engine off, and then reconnected the ICP. Fired right up, and ran smoothly. CEL was now off.

There was a very light film of what appeared to be oil on the inside of the ICP connector. The outside had no visible signs of any fluid. The ICP was again disconnected, cleaned with CRC QD Contact Cleaner (Quick dry, no residue, plastic safe), and then reassembled. Fired right up, ran smoothly, CEL still off.

"classic caps" - I probably will feel silly when I find out what caps are, but I do not know what you are talking about. Capacitors somewhere?

Tonight, I will try to wiggle the ignition switch. As mentioned in my opening description, there were a few moments when the truck would only momentarily run, when the ignition switch was in the "start" position"
* 10 minutes later, the truck seemed to run properly, but only when the key was in the "Start" position. As soon as the key was in the "Run" position, the engine immediately died, without sputtering.
This was not the norm, but never-the-less, it happened.

Stopped at the Ford dealer on the way to work this morning. The IPR Valve is in stock, at about $289.00. The ICP is not in stock. I have until 3:30 today to order one for a Saturday morning delivery. In the meantime, I am going to investigate where I can locally purchase an Aeroforce Interceptor. I would like to try to diagnose the problem a little bit more, before replacing expensive parts.

As an aside, I noticed that the ESN is in the 119,000 range. At least one reference indicates that this makes the truck, an "early" 1995 (as defined by being contained within the sequence of serial numbers between 501 to 187,099). I also noticed that the 1995 New Model Training 7.3l DIT Diesel Engine EEC-V Diagnostics Reference Book, page 1-3, seems to say that the diagnostic connection point in my truck, is called a Data Link Connector (DLC). This is reaffirmed in the 1995 F-Series Power Stroke 7.3 liter Direct Injection Turbo Diesel Supplement , J1930 Terminology List, page 2, that the proper acronym for what I have, is "DLC", per the directives of SAE J1930 standard for component names. This concerns me. To this point, I have heard people talk about using the Aeroforce Interceptors with OBD's and OBD2's. I will research this more, after posting this, but am wondering if I am going to have any compatibility or communication issues when diagnosing.

 

Just spoke with Jim at the Rosewood Diesel Shop, and he said that the Aeroforce Interceptor will not work with the 1994 through early 1995 trucks. He suggested that the only compatible diagnostic device that I may be able to purchase, would be from Auto Enginuity. Even at that, he thought that it "might" work.

I am going to follow-up on his lead.

In the meantime, I am really hoping to hear something optimistic from someone!

 

Things are getting worse.

Spoke with Evan of Auto Enginuity, and was told that their enhanced interface for Ford family (E101) 1995-2013 coverage, is only good for the early 1995 models, if the vehicle has been flashed by Ford Motor Company to 1996 protocol. He did not know a way for me tell if my particular truck has been flashed.

My reasoning, at this point, is that if the truck has been flashed to 1996 protocol, then the Aeroforce Interceptor may also work.

It seems that it may have become a little bit more important now, that I find out if I have a DLC that thinks it is an early 1995, or if it thinks that it is a 1996.

 

I actually carry a spare for that reason

 

I do as well. One of my many spare parts

 

^^^^ +1; we keep a spare IDM+PCM wrapped in foil (EMP-proof?), then bubble-wrap, in a box in whichever PSD we're driving.

As for the flash, if the truck has ever been to a Ford dealer service department in its life, it has most likely been flashed to a level where either the Interceptor or AE (or a Snap-On brick) will communicate with it. By this time in history, it's exceedingly rare to find a truck that has not been flashed. Maybe there's an FTE member in your area with one of these products who would be willing to try it out on your truck.

Another possibility - do you know anyone with a generic OBD-II device that's a little more sophisticated than that CReader? Something like an Actron or even Harbor Freight scanner, or a "Scangauge II"? These devices will NOT do the "Ford Enhanced" protocol, which allows you to obtain trouble codes or do diagnostic tests like the buzz and contribution tests. Nor will they allow you to view specific sensor data like the ICP, pedal position, etc. The most they will show you is RPM and speed. But, I *THINK* that if they show you that much, that suggests that the truck HAS been flashed.

 

It makes sense that the truck has probably been flashed sometime within the last 20 years. Still needs to be confirmed though.

I am not aware of anybody local, who has an OBD-II device, other than my neighbor, who gave me the CreaderV. I have only worked on SI engines, and all of the failure modes that I have experienced on that type of engine, are fairly obvious, and do not require a code reader. Therefore, I have never asked. There are some people that I can check with though.

After searching around for the Snap-On MT2500, it seems that for vehicles prior to 1996, that an MT25001099 Domestic Primary Cartridge is required, and that it is also possible that an additional FRD-4 (MT2500-70) adapter is required for testing on certain Ford trucks. The official Snap-On telediagnostics center has been disabled. I need to find another means of obtaining accurate information. E-Bay has several units available, but most of the sellers that I have looked at so far, are not too specific about what they are selling. My preference, would be to purchase a complete turnkey package, that is ready for my truck.

Do you have any thoughts on the New Generation STAR tester?

I have less than two weeks to figure out what the problem is. I am scheduled to take the truck cross country, with a departure date of September 17th. I would like to find a diagnostic tool to purchase as soon as possible.

 

I guess you could look into the Torque app? I am not sure what the years are though. Nate can probably chime in on that one.

 

I only have the internet while at work. Time to leave for the weekend. Will look for any more suggestions on Monday!

 

The New Generation Star tester, made by Hickok, is what Ford used for several years. I have one, and it works really well on our trucks. You need the correct card for it. They go by colors for the cards, and I don't remember off the top of my head which one is for our trucks. You can do the buzz test, cylinder contribution test, read and clear codes, and about every diognostic test there is.