1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1983 F350 5L straight six with gas

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  #16  
Old 09-12-2014, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Mavericksgarage
VIN: 2FTHW35G9DCA79840

I've just bought a chilton ford manual and it shows G as it should have a V8 351M engine and its got a straight 6.
2FT = FoMoCo of Canada Limited - Ford Truck - Compete Vehicle.

H = Class G Hydraulic Brakes, 8,501-9,000 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

W35 = F350 2WD Crew Cab Pickup.

G = 351W 2V (no 351M's after 1982).

9 = Check digit, FoMoCo usage only.

D = 1983.

C = Oakville Ontario Canada Truck Assembly Plant.

A79840 = 1983 Numerical Sequence of Assembly, the trucks specific serial number.
 
  #17  
Old 09-13-2014, 04:17 AM
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Hi I would love to retore it to original, but its just about getting the parts
 
  #18  
Old 09-13-2014, 05:02 AM
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Hi Bill thanks for that, thats briliant, do you know where I can get secound hand or new parts for my truck
all the best
mark
 
  #19  
Old 09-13-2014, 05:48 AM
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www.car-parts.com. You can search salvage yards all over the US, starting closest to you.
 
  #20  
Old 09-13-2014, 07:38 AM
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Thank you for that information, yes its really good site found quite a few places
all the best
mark
 
  #21  
Old 09-13-2014, 08:54 AM
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The semi float rear doesn't surprise me for an 83, the F350 crew in the 83 brochure has one.

As for engine coding, the g code stayed and just transferred to the W.
 
  #22  
Old 09-13-2014, 10:08 AM
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Hi so basically if I can get the 351w gas engine that would pop straight in on the tranny ive got
all the best
mark
 
  #23  
Old 09-13-2014, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mavericksgarage
Hi so basically if I can get the 351w gas engine that would pop straight in on the tranny ive got
all the best
mark
Along with different frame brackets for the motor mounts, different radiator, and other little misc things.
 
  #24  
Old 09-14-2014, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Along with different frame brackets for the motor mounts, different radiator, and other little misc things.
It is possible that the V8 frame brackets are still in place. They bolt/rivet to the back of the crossmember, while the I6 brackets bolt to the top of the crossmember. You can add the I6 brackets, and drop in the I6, without having to remove the V8 stands. On the other hand, you cannot drop in a V8, with the I6 stands in place. The oil filter needs to go thru the hole in the crossmember that is covered by the left I6 bracket.

Yes, the radiator has to be changed, as the I6 has the outlets reversed from those on a V8.

The alt/PS pump/AC and air pump (if equipped) brackets are also greatly different for the V8, so you would need to find an engine that has all the needed brackets.
 
  #25  
Old 09-14-2014, 01:06 AM
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sweet setup there!
 
  #26  
Old 09-15-2014, 08:00 AM
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Hi all thanks for all the information, any advice where to get a 351w preferably one all ready refurbed or new
all the best
mark
 
  #27  
Old 09-15-2014, 08:21 AM
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Buying a used engine is like buying a pig in a poke. Don't do it unless you get a guarantee. Some salvages will do that, so that's an option.

You can buy rebuilt engines from places like Jasper, or even some of the parts stores sell them. And they come with a warranty.
 
  #28  
Old 12-29-2014, 10:39 AM
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Water Pump

Hi all im looking for a water pump D2TE 8505 AA and a thermostat to fit thermostat housing EOTE 8594 DB prefereably from somewhere in uk but any where would also be fine
all the best
Mark
 
  #29  
Old 12-29-2014, 11:16 AM
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Mark - Not sure where you got the # for the water pump, but it isn't correct, for two reasons. First, as the illustration below shows, the # for a water pump is 8501. Second, in the 80's there are no "AA" suffixes, as shown in the second and third pics.

On top of that, the thermostat "connector", which we usually call a "housing", is #8592 not 8594.

So, these pics should give you the info to find your own # as I don't know what engine you are working on since last I remember you were thinking about replacing the engine. Anyway, if you want to tell us what you are working on we can help. But wherever you are getting your numbers from is not correct.

As for acquisition, perhaps with the right #'s you can find them over there. Or, have them shipped to you.











 
  #30  
Old 12-29-2014, 02:09 PM
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UPDATE - Chris/ctubutis, has gently pointed out to me the error of my ways. The #'s you gave may well be what is shown on the parts, and the confusion is around "engineering #", "casting #", and "part #". It is all very confusing, but let's just say that the "Part Number" column shown above is typically not the number shown on the part. And, people advertise parts based on what is shown on the part rather than what is in the parts catalog.

So, what does that mean? It means you can't always go search for the # shown on the part and find a hit. That's because the parts dealers typically go by the # in the parts catalog. But, as said, some people have NOS parts and go by the # on the part. That would seem to give you two approaches:
  1. # on part: Use the # on the part to find another one with the same #. Typically that'll be someone on ebay.
  2. Catalog #: Google the # from the catalog and you will usually find a number of parts dealers with the parts you desire.

My apologies to Mark and thanks to Chris.
 


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