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How to replace a front wheel bearing hub assembly

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Old 09-02-2014, 01:07 PM
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How to replace a front wheel bearing hub assembly

How do you replace a front wheel bearing hub assembly.
Anyone done this on there ESOF 2007 f250 yet? I need some direction and a list of parts I will need. Any helpful hints trick and or bumps that may cause me some grief would be greatly appreciated.
I have already ordered the wheel bearing hub assembly (fine threat stud).
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 01:33 PM
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I cant see it much different than this....but it is a guide you can use
Ford Super Duty Ball Joint Replacement Procedure | Superdutypsd.com

I just overhauled my entire front but I have a 2004....if you need help hit me up

If you are doing JUST the bearing, it will be very easy! Only advice I can give you is make sure and check all related components (axle ujoints, upper/lower ball joints, seals etc.....you're going to be in there and it might benefit you to do everything. Just my opinion

I found the SKF brand which is a great replacement at rockauto.com....just as good as OEM and 1/2 the price (well cheaper for sure)
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 01:42 PM
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Thanks.
All ball joints replaced with moog about 2 years ago. I grease them twice a year or more. the inner seals have been replaced as well. Any seals when replacing just the bearing hub?
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 01:57 PM
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Shouldn't have to replace any seals as long as you don't pull the axle.
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:03 PM
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Nope. If the vacuum hub seal is good (pretty sure you have the same setup) then it should be a simple swap. IMO striking the spindle at the ball joint taper with a heavy sledge is much better than using a fork to break the ball joints and steering joint loose..... This will keep you from destroying the grease boots on your stuff. Just fyi
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:05 PM
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Shouldn't have to take any tie rods off or ball joints to change the hub assembly.
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:09 PM
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Correct.... Forgot he was only doing a bearing swap. My mistake
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:11 PM
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Figured you knew that just didn't want him doing a lot of unnecessary work.
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:21 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply guys. One quick question. Will I need to borrow a snap ring pliers for the job?
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:22 PM
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More than likely if you don't have any. They are stiff so make sure they are long necked and heavy duty.
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:41 PM
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The only snap ring is for the thrust washer setup (snap ring,washer,nut,washer)located behind the vacuum hub assembly.


Make sure to lube all that stuff up on reassembly. Ps I sent you a pm with a discount code to rock auto if you want to use it.
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 05:56 PM
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The biggest problem you are going to face is the snap ring on the axle. It's a brute and not your every day snap ring pliers are up to the task.
Go here there are part numbers for a good set. The snap on ones I listed and own needed to be modified to work well so i would opt for the other ones listed. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1331889-05-f-250-front-axle-snap-ring-tool.html
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by joe blow
The only snap ring is for the thrust washer setup (snap ring,washer,nut,washer)located behind the vacuum hub assembly.


Make sure to lube all that stuff up on reassembly. Ps I sent you a pm with a discount code to rock auto if you want to use it.
Joe you must have a 99-04 on the 05'+ there is a heavy snap ring that holds the axle thru the bearing.
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 06:01 PM
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When you get the hub out you might want to take a good look
at the big O-ring and if it's getting flat you should replace that one.


Sean
 
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Old 09-02-2014, 06:26 PM
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John, replacing a hub and bearing assembly on our trucks is very straightforward. Just remove the brake caliper/pads/caliper bracket as one assembly and hang it up on one of the coils (so that you're not dangling it by the flex hose of course). Remove the brake disc (it just knocks off as you already know). Now disconnect the ABS connector from the inner fender, and pry the wire free of all the pushpin retainers as you follow it along the radius arm all the way up to removing the three 8mm bolts retaining it to the knuckle. Now you remove the three Torx fasteners that retain the hublock assembly and remove the hublock. This will give you access to the beefy snap ring deeply recessed into the hub. You will need a very beefy set of snap ring pliers to expand that snap ring while pulling it outward simultaneously. Once done, remove the four 21mm nuts on the back side of the knuckle retaining the hub assembly. If the hub is seized into the knuckle, I like to take an old brake rotor and install it onto the hub backwards, secured by only two wheel nuts at 180 degrees from each other. I then strike the rotor with a hammer, and the hub will usually come out fairly easily. Good luck and have fun!!
 


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