1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Starter Solenoid Dillema

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  #16  
Old 09-08-2014, 11:28 AM
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Link works fine for me in both the native Samsung browser and Firefox for Android.
Goes to a page of heat protective wraps
 
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Old 09-08-2014, 11:45 AM
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Thanks. Must be me. I'm out picking up the engine and stopped in Barnes & Noble. May be their internet is blocking it.
 
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:15 PM
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And, now that I'm away from B&N it works for me. So, as I politely asked, it was me.
 
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:24 AM
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The problem with the solenoids are that they do not have Diode Supression, there is a small amount of voltage on the red wire going to the starter solenoid, this voltage will cause the solenoid to become stuck in the start position, tapping it will temp fix it until you start it again. The correct Ford solenoid is a Motorcraft solenoid, part number SW-1507-B or E7HZ-11450-A. Connect the red wire to the (S) Terminal not the (I) terminal. This will eliminate the problem presuming it is your solenoid.
 
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:39 AM
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I've tried 2 or 3 diode suppressed relays.
Same story...

The 'I' terminal is only used on older vehicles for 'I'gnition retard.
Attaching the 'S'tart trigger wire there will not do (or affect) anything.
 
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:35 PM
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In an earlier thread about converting a '93 from EFI to carb. and wiring in a Duraspark ignition, Franklin2 said this: "2 more wires to worry about:
The start/retard wire. Take a new wire and hook it to the red/blue on the "s" terminal of the starter solenoid, and run it around and hook it to the white wire of the module. This will retard the timing while cranking making it turn over easier.

The 12v resistor bypass. This may be a little bit more difficult. To do this easily, you need a solenoid with two small terminals. Many of the later trucks had solenoid with only 1 small terminal (the "S"). Swap in an older style solenoid with two terminals and then you will have the extra "I" terminal. Run a wire from this terminal around and hook it to the + coil terminal. This will put 12v directly to the coil, to give a hotter spark for starting."

It sounds like you are saying to wire the opposite way, so now I am confused. (I'm putting a Duraspark set-up in an '89, thus the interest). Could you clarify?
 
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:43 PM
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If you have a solenoid with an 'I' terminal use it to send power to the coil and the 'S' to the white module wire.

You can't do both from the 'S' terminal because the regular coil power will keep the solenoid and retard engaged.

You could use a diode in the coil leg of the circuit or get a solenoid with an 'I' terminal to make it work.
 
  #23  
Old 09-09-2014, 08:05 PM
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Thanks for the clarification, much appreciated. I have a 4 pole solenoid around here someplace, I think. If not I will get one.
 
  #24  
Old 09-09-2014, 08:19 PM
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FWIW,


The correct starter solenoid in my 1986 / 87 carbed 460 with electric fuel pump has both the S and I terminals.


In my application there is a fuel pump bypass wire attached to the I terminal of the starter solenoid and the purpose of this wire is to energize the fuel pump while cranking.


Once the motor is running the fuel pump is then powered via the regular fuel pump circuit.
 
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