I have had this truck for few months, replaced and done a lot of work to it, trying to improve it and make it safer and dependable. Today I was leaving my parents house with my gooseneck with atvs when I backed up, put it in gear, it idled rough and shut off. I tried to restart it and it would turn over. Could smell gas, so I know it was getting fuel. I check coil wire and got no spark. Went to auto zone and got new accel coil, still no spark. Put code scanner and checked the flashes. I got 111, showing system passed.

Previous owner installed new motorcraft distributor, timing chain, water pump.

I have installed maf, tps, plugs, accel wires, accel coil, distributor cap and rotor.

I have fuel, getting no codes, great battery, just no spark! Since distributor been recently replaced, would the ignition control module be bad, pcm be bad or could the pick up in dist. be bad already?

Thanks for all the help.

 

how are you checking for spark. did you test the coil you replaced. do you have a volt meter and test light. does your mil go out while cranking.

 

I check with screw driver from coil wire to metal. Yes checked new coil. I do have a volt meter and test light, been using both on truck. What is the mil? If you referring to check engine light, yes, it does go away when cranking truck.

 

based on the check engine light going out and you checking spark at the coil making sure the wire at the coil is good you need to check that the coil has control and that it gets power when you turn the key on should have 12 volts at the coil.

 

what do you mean coil has control? I do have 12v at coil with key on.

 

do you have a yellow wire at your coil use your test light and a t pin and crank the engine it should light or flash on and off while cranking also check key on engine off and key on engine cranking. make sure when you do this you have a good connection with your test lamp. only pin the wire you are testing

 

ok I will check tomorrow. If it flashes on and off like it should, what else could it be? If it dosent flash on and off, what could that be? reason I ask, that way I could pick up some parts while im at work. I hate my truck being down and not knowing whats wrong.

 

if your light flashed on and off and you have 12 volts ignition on then either your new coil is bad you have contact problems in the connector or a testing issue so be sure you verify your connections. if you do not get a light and flash then you either have a wiring issue bad TFI module or false input to your TFI.

is your ignition system stock and what type of TFI module are you running. and try this with the spout disconnected while cranking.

 

The black ICM very seldom goes bad. You need to unplug the PCM Computer and see if spark returns. Maybe just unplug the SPOUT shorting bar to be sure unplug the computer. If someone has installed a Gray ICM change it back to a Black one as your truck is not wired for a Gray ICM.

The MIL is what Ford calls the light in the cluster that other car makers call the CEL.

You say you get 111 but it sounds like you just checked the KOEO and not the CM codes that come after the KOEO codes and the space mark. The CM codes is what will tell you if the PIP sensor is bad in the distributor. These are the stored codes from when the engine was running in the last 60 start ups.

 

This video may help… another member here posted it a few days ago. You can skip thru all the useless banter and get right to the diagnostics and the fix…

 

I spoke with a retired ford mechanic today, told him about the truck and he said to try replacing ignition module, if not then the ecm. The ignition module is black, but not factory, theres no ford numbers, and I can tell that's its not oem. I spoke with ford today and a local parts house who sells motorcraft parts and they both said my truck takes the grey one and actually that's all I can get for it. Whats the difference between the black and grey????
Thanks for video, I had an 81 f150 with 302 that pick up would go bad every year around same time, but lucky didn't have to pull distributor to replace.

If I have to replace pickup, im planning on replacing distributor, even though it is a new motorcraft. Whats a better one to go with, maybe longer lasting pickup??

 

As I said above your truck is not wired to take a gray module. The part stores and some Ford dealers will try to sell you the wrong gray one. The Ford dealer and the local parts house are wrong and do not know what they are talking about.

The look up computers at both the ford dealer and the local parts house have the wrong information in them.
If you put a gray one on you will get a error in CM of the self test as the computer will not get the IDM information.
You will also have less power and poorer MPG.
All Ford trucks 1994 and newer take the Black ICM.
Just go to the local parts house and tell them you want a Black ICM for 1995 5.0L Mustang. Then they will sell you the right one.
But as I said above the Black ICM very seldom goes bad.

 

Thanks for the info, I entered 95 mustang 5.0 in advance and the picture they show is a black module, different parts number and about $8 dollars more. They have it instock, so im gonna buy it and try it, if works that's awesome, if it doesn't help, at least I have a spare or return it. Will the mustang still work for my truck? Is the mustang module just a loop hole in system to get correct part? Thanks again for info.

 

Yes it is loop hole in system to get correct part. Some how Ford did not get the part number changed in 1994 for the F-series trucks 1994-1997. Then the local parts house all copied the wrong information. This ICM Black vs Gray comes up on this Forum about once every two weeks so we are very well up on this problem.
You can do a search on this Forum and you will a lot of hits on the Black ICM.

 

If you looked at the video above of the 1996 truck you will see it also has the Black ICM.