Forum newbie with a turbo/exhaust leak prob...

1994 F350 7.3L IDI, 8th number in the VIN is K. Garrett turbo, stock Ford exhaust downstream. I took the truck in for overheating/poor performance (black smoke under load at 1800-2000 rpm, hauling a 3000# truck camper up hills at 6000-9000'MSL).

Mechanic replaced clutch fan (oil leaking) otherwise cooling system checks out. Mechanic found 2 exhaust leaks, not familiar enough to technically describe but leaks at two joints, 1 is at the Y-pipe and another larger leak. The leak is audible when I have my foot in it, and the mechanic said there's a large deposit of carbon around the area of the leak(s). Mid section of the flooorboard gets hot during high loads. Mechanic stated he can't find Ford OEM parts and ATS doesn't make replacement parts anymore. Returned to service (ugh).

Mechanic claimed the leak was preventing proper exhaust pressure to spin the turbo up to speed. My plan is to inspect it tomorrow AM, identify exactly where the carbon buildup is, and continue to search for technical drawings, parts ID, and find the parts I need.

If the leak is found where the Y pipe connects to the turbo what are my options?

 

it's true.ATS dropped the ball on us just a few years ago (hypermax & banks support still here,but who knows for how much longer.)

you may need to just take it to an exhaust shop and let them weld/repair/bend up the pipes needed.
alternatively you can buy mandrel bends and have what you needed fabricated for ya using a combination of the above for what is best/fits your budget.
Tube Bending & Fabrication - Columbia River Mandrel Bending

 

Ford250, and the rest... Turbo is full up, well, as much as a de-rated stock ford/garrett/ATS can be. The problem was an exhaust leak, so bad that the exhaust wasn't producing enough pressure to create any boost. Both ends of the crossover pipe (connecting the left and right exhaust manifold to the "Y" pipe, up tube, and to the turbine inlet) were loose. Soot was the first big sign and physical looseness of the pipe the second. Tightened them up, took it for a 2 hour test drive up some long grades, 3000lb camper on the back, and viola! More power, lower temps, and passing semis.

J&S Diesel in Las Vegas can SMD. Total waste of time. They said they "Y" pipe was shot, couldn't find the parts, have a nice day!...

However excited I am for the fix, it's still just an operable factory ford ATS 093 turbo, small turbine section, smashed down pipe, and 2 1/2" exhaust. Still sniffing the net to find replacement parts to let the motor breathe. One win at a time.

Heat
1994 F350 7.3 IDI 4x4 CC

 

well banks sell a factory replacement downpipe (different than the one that fits their kit) you can search for the part # here.they make it (uncrushed of course) just for the factory units.you can call them and order it too of course,but summit racing might sell it cheaper than buying directly from banks even.sometimes this is the case.but that's your second step (for $100 range upgrade.)
you really should ditch the n/a exhaust too and run some 3 or 3.5" pipe.you can run universal hangers and muffler easy enough yourself.no kit required there.the cross overs are gunna be the beach but some universal mandrel bends and someone who will fabricate locally no doubt can help ya cure that too.even if you just go to a muffler shop and have them crimp bend ya up some cross over pipes,oh well.beats nothing or half rotted.

 

Thanks F250... gonna look for a larger turbine housing and turbine outlet before settling on a down pipe. I want the whole thing from the housing thru the end of the down pipe to be mated. Looks like I'll be re-plumbing the exhaust all the way out to end if I go with a 3" housing, outlet, and down pipe anyway. I'm just glad the turbo is happy again... for now.

I think it would be a good idea to throw a boost and EGT gauge on it as well.

 

welcome to FTE.
a boost and EGT gauge is always a good thing.

 

I couldn't find an upgraded housing for mine without buying a whole used turbo. That wasn't in my budget. You can cut your housing to make it 3" and get the down pipe and weld a 3" flange on it that takes a v-clamp. Then you'll have a 3" all the way. I used a 4" diamond eye exhaust kit on mine after the down pipe. BIG difference!

 

Did ATS stop making the 3" elbow and downpipe kit?


That sucks!


But, there are other options out there, they just require more fabrication. I was never a fan of ATS's slip fit connection for the downpipe anyway.

 

ats stopped making anything for their idi turbo kits a few years ago now.not even a seal,nut,bolt,fastener,gasket etc.....notta.0% support.i remember a few years ago,the rumor was that banks was supposedly the one to drop the ball first.not happened yet.....knock on wood.

 

Just curious, but how long ago?

I bought my elbow & downpipe kit when I bought my truck in 2007, but I recall seeing the Aurora 3000 kits still for sale in 2011.


I suppose that's bound to happen as these engines get older and their market share shrinks...I don't see too many IDI's around here these days.

 

Russ gave us the news on 05-06-2011

Wonderful news from ATS

it wasn't very long before that he wasn't able to find any more parts,that we found out no more turbo kits were being built.looks like i estimated somewhere between 6 months to a year before that about no more kits being made.......i dunno if id ever find one of the first threads where production of the turbo's was seized.

 

I have 20 some sets of castings for the 093 turbos, bought almost all of them or so they told me. so if anyone needs cast iron pieces, I have some.
There are NO outlet elbows left, and the banks downpipe makes a huge difference anyway.

 

Well I guess the "good" thing about the ATS stuff is there really wasn't all that many unique parts...the seals and rubber parts are the worst to lose. The turbo stuff is all pretty universal and I think you could fab a better exhaust elbow than ATS 3" one, but it was nice being able to buy a ready made 3" downpipe too.