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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old 08-30-2014, 11:34 PM
garm59 garm59 is offline
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48 f4 convert to f1

I just purchased a 1948 f 4 & would like to put cab & front clip on 2002 e xplorer chassi,with v8 & auto trans.bed & running boards coming soon.any info on this project would be helpful. thanks Garm59
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Old 08-31-2014, 04:36 AM
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Welcome! Suggest you do a search on this forum. Frame swaps are demanding of budget, time, and skills - tending to result in more unfinished projects than success stories. C/L is littered with your predcessors, unfortunately.
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Old 08-31-2014, 08:23 AM
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There are a heap of threads on this. Frame swaps seem to be often started, rarely finished. Far easier to adapt the running gear you want to the original chassis.
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:14 AM
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Far easier, and cheaper in the long run, to start with a half ton. Stu
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:37 AM
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Welcome to FTE! Depending where you are at garm59, I may be interested in your F4 chassis. But like the others are saying, swaps rarely finish. What you are looking at in the end, is only getting the cab, grille center and hood. Everything else is different than the half ton, including front fenders. My 2 cents. That being said, others have started this swap using an Explorer chassis, and doing a google search with the words www.ford-trucks in it, will help in finding the threads, since you don't have enough posts to do an internal site search yet.
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Old 08-31-2014, 11:54 AM
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thanks for the input.Iam still in planning stage so plan may change.I was told ,fenders

were same as f1 but inner fender may be different .Don't know for sure,new at this. Note; f4 complete chassi ,6flathead motor&4 trans,4 extra tires on wheels will be for sale when I get started. in mi.
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Old 08-31-2014, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garm59 View Post
thanks for the input.Iam still in planning stage so plan may change.I was told ,fenders

were same as f1 but inner fender may be different .Don't know for sure,new at this. Note; f4 complete chassi ,6flathead motor&4 trans,4 extra tires on wheels will be for sale when I get started. in mi.
Wheel openings on the f2-f6 are the same, much larger than the f1.

Click the image to open in full size.
F1 Smaller wheel opening to accommodate 16" wheels
Click the image to open in full size.
F2-F6 Much larger wheel opening to accommodate up to 20" wheels

BTW, your wheels, if original (most likely, will be 'widowmakers', you won't find any takers for those as the only value for them is scrap.
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Old 08-31-2014, 02:12 PM
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thanks for info,pics help lots. I am new at this,and not good at finding forum I need. btw what is widomaker wheel,mine look like f4 pic. front are 18 in" back are 20 not split rim.
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Old 08-31-2014, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by garm59 View Post
front are 18 in" back are 20 not split rim.
Please do yourself a Google search for the widow maker term, and trade name of the wheels, Firestone RH-5°. Your 18" fronts are widow makers, because they all were. Your 20" rears are too because you don't see a split rim. There were no one piece 20" rims, and the fact that you don't see the joint says it's disguised as a hump in the middle of the rim. Stu


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Old 08-31-2014, 06:04 PM
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after a closer look,i found front 18" rims are widowmaker split rims. but rear wheels are SPLIT RING. 2 are 20"x 6" and 2 are 20" x 5". also I have 4 extra tires & wheels that are 20"x6" SPLIT RING,in good shape. thanks for looking
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:42 PM
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I say welcome, and honest advice: Too many first timers jump into a project in this hobby bassackwards. They somehow fall over, are given, or are offered what seems like a "good deal" project purchase (typically a basket case because "it was cheap") without any real research, knowledge, skills space, time, or financial means to have any chance to ever complete making it into a drivable vehicle. First, there doesn't seem to be any major compelling reason to start with this truck you are looking at, there isn't anything but the cab you seem to want, unless the cab is in excellent condition and very cheap, then buy it for a parts cab for a more suitable project base. Second, carefully evaluate the time, space and financial commitment you are willing to make. No matter what they show on TV or are told by friends who are dreamers rather than experienced builders, these trucks DO NOT just fall together like some giant model car kit or cost small pocket change. They typically take a skilled fabricator many years (average 5-20 years!) and cost a minimum of $15-20K (doing ALL the work yourself, double that + if you have to farm out any of the work) just to make drivable. Are you willing and able to make that big a commitment? It also requires a very well equipped dedicated shop a minimum of at least a 2 car garage size, or more for the duration of the build. You will need a laundry list of fabrication tools: MIG welder, oxy/acet torch set or plasma cutter, large 220V air compressor, sturdy work bench with large vise, a large assortment of hand and portable and stationary power tools and the ability to use all of them competently, and have better than average automotive mechanical skills and knowledge.
if you are lacking in any of these areas, and really want an old truck to drive I'd highly recommend saving your money while you take your time to find an already licensed and drivable truck you like. The better the truck you buy the more you will save in the end, you can never build for the price you can buy someone else's project for, they always sell for well under the original builder's investment.
Frame swaps are one of the most difficult tasks, even for a skilled builder, you can take on.
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Old 08-31-2014, 08:24 PM
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Welcome garm59,

AXracer is speaking words of wisdom.
FortyNiner is right too......Craigslist has broken dreams for sale on a regular basis.
And Stu is saving lives every day.
Put together a plan first, do the research here on this site because it is loaded with answers to every question we possibly have about these trucks. Evaluate your access to specialized mechanical resources and financial realities.
Lots of good people here to help.
Tom
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:35 PM
garm59 garm59 is offline
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thanks for input&advise. Truck was cheap,cab is complete& in very good condition [miner rust through back corners of cab],truck is drivable. I am now doing research and planning before I decide what to do.I had a 50 f2 25 years ago but kids were young & needed $ more than truck. I am not planning a short term project,I am thinking f1 look with modern drivetrain& ride. My 50 was restored original,want more creature comfort. plan may change. still interested in f1 to ranger-explorer frame swap .still looking for thread. thanks for all help
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:56 PM
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Others have said this before , but it can't be repeated enough. Buy the most complete and sound vehicle you can find. Having said that, If you buy something that is missing a lot of parts or needs extensive work just to make it drivable you are wasting your time. I paid what I thought was a premium price for my f1 and only because it was complete. And then had to explain it to my financial consultant (wife) why. I didl't have to spend gas money and time scouring the country looking for parts etc. Good luck with your project no matter what it turns out to be. No discouriging words here.
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Old 08-31-2014, 11:33 PM
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Hey Garm,
Here is one of the better threads from a shop that did an Explorer Chassis swap. These guys had a full shop & loads of experience & equipment.
In the end - take a look at what they had to do inside the bed to make it work.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...4-55-56-a.html

It might be easier to just add what you want to the stock frame.
We also wanted some of the modern comforts - we used the 8.8 Axle off the Explorer for our rear end & we went with an after market Mustang II style coilover front end. 4 wheel disc brakes, power steering, independent front suspension, etc.

Ben in Austin
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Old 08-31-2014, 11:33 PM
 
 
 
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