ok lets stay on track. I decided to start from the beginning I pulled the front tank and found a broken pickup filter verifying someone's suggestion that it wasn't getting fuel, more than likely right, was reading a 1/4 tank & e in rear tank. got that fixed and will be reassembly today, ran a scan on puter & no codes. When checking to see if the fuel bowl would fill up which it did fill some but not even 1/8 of the way before batts went down I noticed a curved wire that is electrically connected to something?? Does anyone know what the wire does? It contacts the bottom of the fuel filter when it is installed. Also found a wad of goo about the size of a silver dollar and 1/4 of an inch thick in the rear pickup screen, which was the easiest fix so far other than having to pull the tanks. I got to give it too you guys your a bunch of really knowledgeable people. I hope this goes well because I just ordered a mustang frnt crossmember to put this drivetrain in 49 chev 3/4 ton panel. believe you me I will make things more assessable when it goes in.

 

I've been dealing with a ford fe for a few years and I understand ford & there way of dealing with model changes. I have a 1966 galaxie, never wrecked ,I'm the 2nd owner, owned it since 1988, got over $50K in receipts and it's almost done. The Paxton supercharger is installed and working on the belt system, multi port fuel injected(DIY), B&M low 1st & 2nd gears, TCI 12in 2500 stall anti ballooning torque converter, 355 rear gears with Detroit locker, 4 wheel disk (manual brakes), power steering, all remotely controlled, no door keys, no ignition key, no trunk key(Crimestopper), all snow white interior, 88 buick skylark buckets mounted on 6 way Lincoln frames(sectioned 2in). 4 bar rear suspension with proma star coilovers, 3 1/2 flowmaster from collectors to bumper. custom mixed one off color(enamel, my formula) with a light coat of silver miniflake, with a few body line highlighted with metallic white all cover in 7 coats of poly urethane clear. I"ll post pics as soon as I figure out how. Again thanks for all the help, but don't go anywhere I m sure I will still need help.

 

There are three electrical items on the fuel bowl / FPR assembly
* Water in Fuel (WIF) sensor - Controls the WIF light on the dash. IIRC, on the rear of the bowl, partway up. I forget the wire color(s).
* Fuel filter heater - driver's side, kinda low down. Single flat-blade terminal with a red/green wire. This is the infamous one that, when it shorts, blows fuse #22, which in turn disables the PCM, so no start. (This is the reason for the WTS light question above.)
* Fuel filter restriction sensor - on the FPR, IIRC driver's side toward the front.

So what you're seeing is probably the wire/connector for the heater. It would still be helpful to know the answers to the three questions above, but if indeed you don't get a WTS light, check fuse #22. If it's blown, DON'T just replace it. DISCONNECT this connector FIRST, THEN replace the fuse, and then check for the WTS.

What device did you use to scan the truck for codes?

 

no blown fuses
water light on when cranking
generic from orielly's friends can't afford to buy for just one problem

 

The WIF light is supposed to come on while cranking; it's the bulb check.
Does the WTS light come on when you turn the key to RUN (before turning it to START)?

The generic scanner will not read trouble codes from this truck.

 

I owe you an apology. your knowledge is more than what I know. I pulled the tanks and checked for debris. Neither had an electric pump. both were defective and repaired and reinstalled. Still no start. no codes. glow plugs are reading 12 volts to them. Sprayed diesel fuel threw intake and got a few hits like it wanted to start. I'll check fuel cranking pressure today to see if fuel pump is working. Is fuel pressure supposed to be at the 65 psi range? I'm just about ready to send to mechanic, but I'll stick it out fro the rest of the week.

 

You were and are absolultly right. no electric pump I'm sorry for doubting you. I just getting frustrated with this project, and seem to forget it's something simple. I can't convience myself to just go buy expensive parts hoping that will fix the problem, I want to know what failed so I don't do it again. Again my appology

 

WTS does come on.
tach moves while cranking.
No smoke, doesn't even act like it wants to fire

 

You should see a minimum of 20 Lbs. WHILE CRANKING the engine. The 65 lbs. is for a running engine.

 

Thanx, If I got proper fuel pressure What is the next check I should do?

 

That's actually the best approach. Diagnostic tools aren't cheap, but neither are parts, and often the diagnostic tools pay for themselves when they can be used to determine that a particular part does NOT need to be replaced. And "throwing parts" at a problem can lead you astray. A lot of reman parts are cr@p, and if you replace a part just blindly trying to fix a problem, you may be replacing a good working OEM part with a cr@p reman. So your reluctance to "throw parts" at the problem is well-founded.

Anyway, WTS + tach establishes that at least the PCM is working. How exactly are you measuring voltage at the glow plugs?

 

I traced the wire from the relay to the plug on the valve cover. Its a solid brown wire. I pulled the plug and turned the ign to the on position and checked each brown wire to the positive of the VOM and the neg on the VOM to a clean grnd.

 

Okay, that tells you the relay is closing and providing SOME power to the glow plugs. That doesn't tell you if the glow plugs are working. Couple other tests you need to do:

* Measure the resistance of each glow plug, from the valve cover connectors. Disconnect them and set your meter on resistance, and measure from each outermost terminal to ground. Should be right around 1 ohm.

* Measure the performance of the GP relay under the load of the glow plugs. Re-connect the VC connectors, turn the key to RUN, and measure the voltage at each of the two big terminals on the relay (each terminal to ground, separately). The voltage will be less than 12V, due to the load of the glow plugs, probably 11-11.5. The voltage on the "always on" terminal (supply from the junction point on the starter relay) will be higher than the "switched" terminal (power going to the GPs), but the _difference_ is the key. If difference is more than 0.3V, the relay is faulty; it may be closing, but it's not providing sufficient power to the glow plugs.

If the second test fails, you can try bypassing the relay - run a jumper cable from one of the battery + terminals to the large "switched" terminal on the relay, the one that provides power to the GPs. Leave it on there 10-15 seconds. That should energize the glow plugs enough that, if this is indeed the problem, it should allow it to fire.

 

Thank you. I'm on the way to my shop now, but I don't have internet capability at the shop. I will do this and let you know the results later.

 

I'm not looking back cause I'm lazy, but have you checked the ipr and its wiring? No smoke at all while cranking means your injectors aren't firing. Lots of times that is related to the ipr or idm. Means you were in the valley working on the turbo I'd be looking at the ipr and its wiring first.