Did i wire this wrong?
#18
#20
This is an easy fix, we just need to take it one wire at a time.
First, what did the harness you are using come off of?
I don't recognize the square gray connector in you video that is not hooked up to anything? What does the other end of this go to?
On the 4 wire plug on the IGN module, make sure 3 wires go the the Dist and one wire (green) goes to the coil NEG. remove the tape if needed to make sure.
Do you have the 2 wire plug on the IGN module connected to the trucks harness yet?
Jim
First, what did the harness you are using come off of?
I don't recognize the square gray connector in you video that is not hooked up to anything? What does the other end of this go to?
On the 4 wire plug on the IGN module, make sure 3 wires go the the Dist and one wire (green) goes to the coil NEG. remove the tape if needed to make sure.
Do you have the 2 wire plug on the IGN module connected to the trucks harness yet?
Jim
#21
#22
The final results for the DS2 wiring harness will be a mix from the harness you brought home from the junk yard and the old harness you removed.
So at this point you still need to remove / disconnect the 4 wire plug from the DS2 IGN module that goes to the Dist and the coil NEG. Remove tape, clean and insp the wires, retape and install. This is the only part of your junk yard harness that you will use. The square gray plug shoud not be on the truck any more.
If this harness is good and usable we can proceed to the remaining steps.
Jim
So at this point you still need to remove / disconnect the 4 wire plug from the DS2 IGN module that goes to the Dist and the coil NEG. Remove tape, clean and insp the wires, retape and install. This is the only part of your junk yard harness that you will use. The square gray plug shoud not be on the truck any more.
If this harness is good and usable we can proceed to the remaining steps.
Jim
#25
The square plug has the oil pressure sender, water temp and a red wire with green trace that goes to the positive side of the coil. The black plug on the truck that has four connectors should have those same three wires. Need to find the matching plug in parts that were removed and splice things together.
#26
Have a look at this epic thread.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-86-i-6-a.html
It is not the same year as yours, but there are lots of pictures and good advice
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-86-i-6-a.html
It is not the same year as yours, but there are lots of pictures and good advice
#27
SUCCESS! I got it started, i tinkered with the dist. and it was WAAAAY out of time. Now i have a new problem... the gas in the carb bowl seems to be over filling and gas is pouring out the nipple next to the fuel inlet on the carb... why is my fuel bowl getting over full? i am also running 3/8 rubber line, could it be feeding to much gas to the bowl? should i convert back to the stock metal line
#28
Your float valve is misadjusted, stuck, or you have too much fuel pressure.
Didn't you start a thread where you were adjusting your float height??Use a float gauge or the proper diameter drill bit to set the float height with the float valve inverted.
Mikes Carburetor Parts has some good videos.
Carter YF YFA Carburetor | Mikes Carburetor Parts
There is a reason steel fuel line is used in the engine compartment.
Mostly so it does not chafe or melt through and cause a fire.
Rubber lines can also vibrate enough to shake the fuel inside into a froth before it gets to the carb.
Didn't you start a thread where you were adjusting your float height??Use a float gauge or the proper diameter drill bit to set the float height with the float valve inverted.
Mikes Carburetor Parts has some good videos.
Carter YF YFA Carburetor | Mikes Carburetor Parts
There is a reason steel fuel line is used in the engine compartment.
Mostly so it does not chafe or melt through and cause a fire.
Rubber lines can also vibrate enough to shake the fuel inside into a froth before it gets to the carb.
#29
DS wiring step 2
As Mr Bacon stated in his post you will need to address the remaining 3 wires.
I would find the matching plug for the 4 pin plug on your old harness. This will have the oil press and water temp wires that you need. These will just plug back into the same senders you removed them from.
The last item is the correct feed point for the coil POS. This is also in this same plug. If you only have 3 wire on the engine side of this plug, then the remaining wire is the correct wire for the coil positive, down stream of the resistor wire. You will need to splice this wire.
Also, I rep'ed ShakinBacon for his help, that was a good first post and very helpful.
Jim
As Mr Bacon stated in his post you will need to address the remaining 3 wires.
I would find the matching plug for the 4 pin plug on your old harness. This will have the oil press and water temp wires that you need. These will just plug back into the same senders you removed them from.
The last item is the correct feed point for the coil POS. This is also in this same plug. If you only have 3 wire on the engine side of this plug, then the remaining wire is the correct wire for the coil positive, down stream of the resistor wire. You will need to splice this wire.
Also, I rep'ed ShakinBacon for his help, that was a good first post and very helpful.
Jim
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