I never thought of that!

this is bringing back memorys.... When my dad had the Buick 322 & the 6cyl clutch, he insisted on starting in 2nd gear often, since he had the power. Because of that, we replaced the clutch about every 6 to 10 months. Seems we got it down to about 2 hours each time. Granted, we did not have the 4wd or the rear mount, but I bet it would be close.

 

Your giving me some engine support ideas, thinking outside the box.

 

This is how they do the new FWD cars:

1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar

 

Thank you!! I have a motorcycle Jack that will get fairly close to the tranny I'm sure I can make something work.

 

Ive changed clutches without removing the bell housing, just remove the bottom flywheel cover and it will drop out of the bottom...

 

Thanks for the info, Think I can coax the pilot bearing out also? I know about the grease and Drift punch of the correct diameter(??) trick to drive it out.

 

I've driven them out using the grease method and a bolt of the right diameter,

 

Thanks again, looks like it's all very doable.

 

Not that bad go a job if you remove the access panel from the floorboard. I thought mine being a 4x4 gave me a lot more room to work underneath. Harder part for me was aligning trans input shaft when reinstalling.

 

Well I got my new clutch kit in the mail yesterday, and I managed to get all of the access panel screws out. I might go for it next weekend.

 

Don't worry; really pretty straightforward. Just take your time & if you start to get frustrated, it's time for a beer break!

 

Sweet! I bought a kit on Thursday. I'm going to pull the trans & bell housing when I do mine. I want to see the flywheel to see if it needs resurfacing before reassembling.

 

Good luck!! Do you have a shop manual? Your supposed to align the bell housing to the pilot bearing bore with a dial indicator.

 

Thanks, I've conquered every other challenge this truck has presented (still fighting my Y Block thermostat housing leak)