I have had my truck on the road since January and drive it most days. A couple of issues still need to be sorted out, but that always seems to be the case. One is wandering steering, especially on rutted and/or rough roads. I replaced/rebuilt the stock front axle and springs and installed Toyota PS. I had ordered some 4 degree caster shims after reading people recommending them, but have had them sitting on the workbench for the last several months.

Yesterday, I finally pulled the front axle and added spring slider material and stacked the 4 degree shim on top of the 2 degree that was already on it. All I can say is that if you haven't done this yet, buy them now and put them on immediately. What a difference - tracks straights and doesn't dart to the side over bumps and ruts.

Thanks again to all contributors on the forum.

 

Yeah. I was amazed at the increased ease of steering my F6 when I added the axle caster wedges. Someone 35-plus years ago left them out for what reason?

 

A combination of generally slower road speeds and lack of crown to the roadways in those days was the reason for less caster is my understanding. At least it is and easy fix.

 

They were never installed at the factory. Most trucks in the day were equipped with tall narrow stiff bias ply tires and driven at slow speeds on mostly poor to non existent roads or in cities with tight narrow streets and parallel parking, so ease of low speed steering was most important. Reduced caster makes the wheels turn easier, like on a tricycle.

Did you know that crown was originally put into roads so the horse sh** would wash down to the gutters when it rained making the roads self cleaning?

 

Thanks for the clarification AX.

Sounds like another reason to stay out of the gutter.

 

Was your center pin long enough for both wedges?

 

Thats excellent news.
I recently bought some caster shims....well...okay, several months ago. They are on my "To Do" list that I seem to keep not getting around to. I have a road trip coming up an a couple of weeks. I guess I better get off of my rear and get them installed.

When I bought my shims they came with longer center pins. Should be an easy job to get them installed.

Bobby

 

Yes, thank you AX.

 

Yes, I got the longer head center pins when I got the caster shims from Classic Haulers. Worked fine.

Bobby, I am slow and pulled the spring packs to put the slider material in between the leaves. Overall, it took me 5 hours start to finish, including several "contemplation" breaks. Probably good I did this as I discovered one of my rear spring mounts had the rivets coming loose, allowing a little movement. I picked up some grade 5 bolts to replace them with.

 

Are these caster shims for '53 - '56 trucks only or are they just as good on a '48 - '52?

 

They work on the '48 - '52s as well.

 

OK, if I add a single 6 degree shim, would it normally be necessary to go with the longer head center bolt?

 

I put the 4 degree shims in mine and had to replace the bolt.

 

Who sells the extended head bolt? What is the size of the bolt and the extended head length? I see one on MF that has a 5/8" extention on the head. Is that the proper one? By the way, is using aluminum shims OK? I can't find any 1.75" wide 6 degree shims that are steel.

 

Caster shims are not vehicle specific, only leaf width specific. They can even be used in the rear to adjust pinion angle. It's likely anything over 2* will require longer headed centerbolts. The head must stick out far enough for the shank portion to seat solidly into the axle to assure the axle can't shift. The centerbolt can be changed while the spring is on the axle, just be sure to place 2 heavy duty 4" or larger C clamps securely on both sides of the centerbolt before removing the nut. Leave the clamps in place until the new bolt/nut has been tightened in place.
Respect that the spring packs significant energy with the bolt removed, don't leave the bolt out any longer than necessary. Always insert the shims so the top of the axle tips back more to increase caster.