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  #31  
Old 09-07-2014, 08:37 AM
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tool opportunity

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Originally Posted by ozdatman View Post
I always found one of the old rings broken in half is good to clean the ring grooves.
Yessir, that's what I was doing to turn my thumb into hamburger before I switched to harder chemicals.

I thought about mounting it in a piece of wood but then I just put a bandage on my thumb and put a glove on and had more success with a whole ring with just a twist in it. I could hold it with my whole hand and get some good pressure pushing and pulling downward into the groove.

Maybe it already exists, but if someone could figure out how to mount a piece of ring into an ergonomic 'handle'... Something better than just a pair of vice-grips.

I'm pretty much done with this task now.
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  #32  
Old 09-07-2014, 08:07 PM
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Badda-bing.
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  #33  
Old 09-14-2014, 10:46 AM
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Bump for update.
How does it run?
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  #34  
Old 09-14-2014, 11:29 AM
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LOL. Not quite there yet, despite some, um, shortcuts.

After measuring clearances of main and rod bearings I found they are within standard tolerances. As I wasn't going for an overbore and was sticking with my oversized rings I've started to put it back together with what I have. The rationale is if it runs ok, good. If not, it has to come out again anyways so then I'll bite the bullet for a long term fix.

I managed to break one second ring and an oil ring, so old ones of each of those are being used on 2 different cylinders. The crank and all the pistons are back in the block. As is the oil pump. Note: Install piston oil squirters BEFORE crank and pistons. Sigh. (You can install oilers after crank and pistons but it's quite a bit trickier.)

I've lapped all the valves and have both heads reassembled. I'm looking at getting it mostly put back together today. I am missing (broke) a sensor at the very back of the block. I think it's oil pressure but I'm not sure. I think I'll be able to start it without that - just plug it.

I saw a youtube, I think the link was from here, of a guy who started his motor on his engine stand! I don't think this HF stand could handle that, however, I have been toying with the idea of building some kind of setup to mount an engine (my 'spare' TDI) so I can run a generator or other simple PTO devices. I have all those bus seat carcasses and want to become a competent welder.

I'm not sure how much electrical/electronics I'd need to run it out of the truck. I'm thinking not much, maybe just the glow plug controller and the starter, but I don't know. Definitely should be easier than the TDI setup.

It snowed this week, so I might just put it back in the truck and move on to the trans.
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  #35  
Old 09-14-2014, 12:03 PM
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The sensor at the back that you broke does sound like the oil sensor. Its not needed, but you may want it hooked up just in case you missed something inside and it doesn't build any oil pressure.

As far as other wires, all you _need_ for these engines to run is the FSS (fuel shutoff solenoid) which is the front top connector on the injection pump. But you're right that glow plugs and starter really need to be wired up.

Sounds like you're making good progress!
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next projects: fix/complete the 3.5 inch exhaust (tailpipe exits waaaaaay to low, and needs to be extended out from under the bed) swap to a rust free cab
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  #36  
Old 09-14-2014, 04:37 PM
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i dont know why but when i look at this picture of yoru garage it gives me the warm fuzzy at home feeling. maybe mine messy too...

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  #37  
Old 09-25-2014, 06:04 PM
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update. motor in truck. power steering pulley question

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Thanks Skip, I think. A place for everything and everything in it's place, which is wherever I last put it...

Well, after humming and hawing about the bearings I put it all back together with existing bearings and all new gaskets everywhere. New front and rear seals and water pump.

I misplaced the little bracket that holds the oil pickup tube to one of the main bearing bolts. After putting all the stuff on the top of the motor, including the injection pump and turbo w/downpipe I had to bite the bullet and make a little bracket that I could not find.

I was wondering, and asked earlier in this thread, if it was possible to put the motor in with the turbo on with it's plumbing? Why Yes, Jeff, it can be done.

A curious neighbor, Ron, helped me get the motor up over my front end. We ended up taking my front wheels off and setting my front end down on 2x4s on the steering knuckles. I didn't think my crane could lift the motor high enough but in hindsight I think I just needed to top-up and bleed my crane. Ron managed to leave before I had the motor actually in and down on the mounts. (I couldn't really decline his 'help' as he pulled me out of my yard when I got stuck a few months ago. Also unsolicited.) I have a problem asking for help as I don't like to be in situations where I actually need it.

In the process of cleaning my camera I have all but destroyed it. I managed to get it to take pictures again but have broken/shorted/disconnected (WTF!!???) the display. I bought a new camera on ebay and am expecting it soon. I managed to take this one picture of the engine back in the engine bay.

I broke (squashed) the hard fuel line from the lift pump to the injection pump and then I really broke it. I was going to use this copper replacement I flared with the old fittings on but then I messed that up too. Yesterday I went to a boneyard and found an old 250 Diesel that I was told didn't exist out there. It had no heads, but damn, it had that fuel line still connected at the bottom to the lift pump. $8. It also has what appears to be an electric heater on it? I'll take more pics of that when I get my new camera.

I think I can get away using my old heater hose pipe that was also squashed that I've opened up with some conical punches and other shameful metalworks. I also had a cheapo oil pressure guage with a plastic tube and 1/8" connector that fit right into the block where the old oil pressure switch was that broke.

I'm on to dealing with the tranny now but plan to try to get the motor started before I put that back in.

You can see I don't have any accessories or cooling system stuff put back in yet. I'd like to install a coolant filter but that isn't holding me up. My power steering pump and/or just the belt used to squeeeeeeel really bad. I have a new seal for it but I cannot figure out how to get the darn pulley off that sucker. Manual references special tool. How does that work? I have a big allen that fits in the bolt at the center of the shaft. Is that a bolt holding the pulley on. The special tool just looks like a puller? Does the pulley just press on/off? Argh. This can wait too, I guess.
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  #38  
Old 09-25-2014, 06:31 PM
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transmission thread

So, this is the main reason why the truck is off the road.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...l#post14693355
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  #39  
Old 09-26-2014, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffStrachan View Post

In the process of cleaning my camera I have all but destroyed it.


Pressure washer, parts washer or dishwasher?
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  #40  
Old 09-26-2014, 07:47 PM
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error

Brake parts cleaner. Fused the mode dial. Works better than super glue. Then I busted more trying to take it apart. There comes a point of no return, which I passed using my pocket knife to pry ...

New one came today. Had 3 AAA duracells in it. Completely dead after less than an hour of monkeying with it.

I hate devices that run on AAAs. Gimme a D cell or a 9V, please.
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  #41  
Old 09-27-2014, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffStrachan View Post
Brake parts cleaner. Fused the mode dial. Works better than super glue. Then I busted more trying to take it apart. There comes a point of no return, which I passed using my pocket knife to pry ...
Excellent work.
Have you got your cutting torches and sledge hammers ready for your transmission rebuild?


Do you need the trans in the start the Diesel...like to have somewhere to bolt the starter to?
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  #42  
Old 09-27-2014, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
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Do you need the trans in the start the Diesel...like to have somewhere to bolt the starter to?
No, the starter bolts to the engine adapter plate which is bolted onto the back of the engine block. However, there are only two engine mounts, one on either side, which means the engine may be able to rock back and forth. The transmission mount stabilizes the engine so it can't tip over. I don't think the mounts would fail, but they may allow enough movement to cause some damage, like the engine tilting enough to cause the fan to hit the radiator. I'd think if an engine hoist were hooked up to the front and back of the engine and tensioned, it might keep things from self destructing.

Someone else may have some other insight on this one.
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next projects: fix/complete the 3.5 inch exhaust (tailpipe exits waaaaaay to low, and needs to be extended out from under the bed) swap to a rust free cab
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  #43  
Old 09-29-2014, 12:03 PM
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Right. But it turns the torque plate which is still sitting on my garage floor with the starter. I looked at putting the plate on when the engine was still on the stand but that was a no-go.

I was getting the sense that if the motor were to fall, jump, roll... it was going to go backwards. I'm not ready to find out. Not sure I want to know the answer to that one.

I have hooked up my new (junkyard) fuel line and the rest of the fuel system and glow plugs. Also have alternator in and got that steering pump pulley off and painted. I'm starting to think the problem/noise going on there was the belt tensioner pulley, not the steering pump itself.

My efforts have shifted to the trans and I still have things to take care of before I think I'm ready to turn the key.
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  #44  
Old 11-17-2014, 12:56 AM
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Its ALIVE!

Got tranny and rest of drivetrain installed.

No need for blow by blow of all the details of installing an engine-hooking up all the fluid and electricals. I had a snag with the starter not being seated (me tired, rushing) and then I got slowed by a fuel leak. I almost resorted to barb adapters and rubber hoses for the line from the lift pump to the fuel filter but ended up just cutting a piece of 5/16" hose to make a donut.

It's been... cold. Once I got her primed though she coughed and then barked and settled into a steady rumble. I let her idle for quite a while as I walked around and looked around for any leaks. Looks good so far.

I got back in the cab and tried the transmission. No gears seemed to engage at all. I put it back in park, revved her up to ~2000 and then she just died.

Happy to have it running I went back to the house to reflect. A couple hours later I went back out and she started right up. I let her idle to warm and then juiced her to 3000 rpm for about 10 seconds. In hindsight, that was stupid, what with fresh rings and head gaskets, but when I let off the gas she just settled right down to that menacing idle. I think that one stall may have been the last purge of air in the fuel system. (?)

I just now have returned from cold starting her and letting her idle for ~2 minutes. The thermometer on my front porch is showing just a tad under 0F. She cranked about 3 seconds and barked into an idle about 750rpm. The heater fan is making squeeling and howling almost as loud as the engine clatter. It does sound like there's quite a bit of valve clatter but I still have the air cleaner off and the hood, for that matter.

I'm pretty satisfied the engine is good but I need to get the tranny sorted out now to put some miles and a load on.

Happy Dancin' here.

Jeff.
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  #45  
Old 11-22-2014, 11:00 AM
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drove truck, now what?

Well, I've taken a test drive now, and everything was sweet.

But after I've put it all back together I'm not getting drive engagement again. Now though, well, I think I'm going to start another thread in the diesel forum about my e4od.
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:00 AM
 
 
 
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