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  #16  
Old 09-02-2014, 04:20 PM
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You don't bore just to bore a larger hole. My machinist went only to 0.020 over on my engine to keep as much meat on as possible.

Of course, that makes it a bit more difficult finding pistons that are 4.070 versus the far more common 0.030 overs.
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1968 Mustang 289-2V
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  #17  
Old 09-02-2014, 08:35 PM
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Alright, well I just learned something today. I guess if I'm wanting cubic inches then I just do stroke. I was planning on just using the crank that I already have and rods as well.
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  #18  
Old 09-03-2014, 12:43 PM
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The 390 will run like a raped ape with stock bottom end components. i ran one for a long time before stepping up to a 427.

D3 components are great for a decent street engine. check the crank 10/10 if necessary, have the rods checked and go for a decent set of aftermarket pistons that don't break the bank. Look on jegs or summit and see what best fit your budget.

boring the motor, especially the later 390s in your part number range is definitely not out of the question. 30 over is plenty safe to remove any rust damage, gain a little power, and keep the motor running relatively cool.

Survival has budget stroker kits that come ready to bolt in. Barry will even prep your block if you want big inches.

Check out these guys for a few FE parts.

Survival Motorsports Home Page

DSC Motorsports - Manifolds

Carl's Ford Parts

I live, breathe, and bleed FE.
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  #19  
Old 09-04-2014, 12:17 AM
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What are you doing with your heads? Probably D2 heads which everyone says good because of the hardened exhaust valve seats. However, I have learned that is a misstatement. They are really surfaced hardened just like putting a scratch coating on the lenses in your glasses. Couple of mils thick. I saw mine today and they clearly need hardened inserts put in for a true hardened seat. Depending on miles I'd bet that at least the exhaust valve stems are loose in their guides.
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1965 F-100 390-2V
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1968 Mustang 289-2V
1967 Parklane 410-4V / 1973 Dodge Polara
1943 USS Hornet/1945 TBM3E Avenger
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  #20  
Old 09-04-2014, 09:50 AM
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Guys I really appreciate all the info. I have searched and read all kinds of info, but the best info is from the from the guys who experience it.

The heads have C8AE-H on them. We will definitely be overhauling them, but not sure on what else yet. Im still trying to find info on the D4TE intake to see if I should re-use it or not. Its a 4 barrel intake, but thats about all I know.
It seems as though the engine I have is frome several different years if im judging the numbers right. The guy swore it had never been torn down.
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  #21  
Old 09-04-2014, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EstesTruck View Post
The guy swore it had never been torn down.

People swear a lot when selling things...
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1965 F-100 390-2V
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1967 Parklane 410-4V / 1973 Dodge Polara
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  #22  
Old 09-04-2014, 10:56 PM
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That manifold is fine as long as you have a crane to handle it with or a team of folks. Performer or Performer RPM (I can't remember) are good for the FE and weigh a lot less. Not a big issue in a truck, but if you find any issues with that iron back breaker, consider looking through this forum for several exhaustive intake manifold threads.
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  #23  
Old 09-05-2014, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod View Post
That manifold is fine as long as you have a crane to handle it with or a team or folks. Performer or Performer RPM (I can't remember) are good for the FE and weigh a lot less. Not a big issue in a truck, but if you find any issues with that iron back breaker, consider looking through this forum for several exhaustive intake manifold threads.
Lol, good advice man. Yea those things are beastly.
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  #24  
Old 09-05-2014, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod View Post
That manifold is fine as long as you have a crane to handle it with or a team or folks. Performer or Performer RPM (I can't remember) are good for the FE and weigh a lot less. Not a big issue in a truck, but if you find any issues with that iron back breaker, consider looking through this forum for several exhaustive intake manifold threads.
Using an engine lift then there are as light as a feather...
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1965 F-100 390-2V
1968 Cougar 302-4V
1968 Mustang 289-2V
1967 Parklane 410-4V / 1973 Dodge Polara
1943 USS Hornet/1945 TBM3E Avenger
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  #25  
Old 09-17-2014, 09:13 AM
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Ok, haven't pulled the crank yet. But I took a mirror and found 2T on it. From what Ive read, this is NOT a 390, but a 360 or 361. This definitely changes things a bit. Im wondering now if I should just try for a high compression 360, or scrap the whole bottom end and get a 427 crank. Money is always the equaliser.
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  #26  
Old 09-18-2014, 01:31 AM
85e150six4mtod 85e150six4mtod is offline
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Go back and stuff it up that guys nose.... 360s always become 390s when up for sale.

A 427 crank is not what you need for a mild pickup motor. It is the same stroke as a 390 anyway.

Since this motor was stuck, I doubt you can use the pistons in it, so you need crank, rods and pistons to make a 390. You can go 410 with a 428/410 crank, and appropriate pistons. Or larger with aftermarket items.

IMO rebuilding it as a 360 is a waste of effort, as you will not make a decent running "high compression" 360 without custom pistons.
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Old 09-18-2014, 01:31 AM
 
 
 
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