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?? about thermactor setup during rebuild (Piston, Cam, Intake swap)

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Old 08-27-2014, 04:05 AM
lazzarruss lazzarruss is offline
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?? about thermactor setup during rebuild (Piston, Cam, Intake swap)

I have a pretty broad question and I hope theres a simple answer:
I am in the process of building my list to modify my 78 400 (my first ever rebuild), and what I find out is going to determine some of the parts I use. I want to use the stock Block, Heads, Piston rods, and crankshaft for this rebuild, and after I get the block, and heads checked for cracks, ported, polished, honed, I plan on using these parts:

So far Im looking at:
Tmeyer KB2347 pistons (standard bore)
Comp Cam and lifter kit K32-221-3
PERFORMER 400 (have not decided egr or non-egr)
Holley 0-4412C (or I may keep the 2150, not sure yet)
APR bolts all the way around
FelPro Gaskets
Edelbrock Victor Series water pump (with high flow thermostat)


My question:
What do I need to do during the rebuild to address the Thermactor system built into theses Cylinder heads? Does it matter?

I want to get away from using a vacuum amplifier for the egr setup, and get away from using the two 3 port vacuum switches mainly to clean up the appearance of my engine bay, but I want to keep EGR. I hope to do this with the aftermarket intake and Holley Carb.

My goal is a daily driver (30 minutes daily highway, and 45 minutes daily stop n go city) and occasional trailer towing with reasonable power and torque.

If its obvious to the pros I've overlooked some necessary consideration, please throw it at me. I don't want to get halfway into this build and find out I've wasted my time by overlooking something. Any suggestions welcome.
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Old 08-27-2014, 05:00 AM
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David7.3 David7.3 is offline
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If you want to do away with the managed air thermactor system then you need to plug the holes in the exhaust ports. All the system does is pump fresh air into the exhaust port for a more complete burn, I would tap and put a bolt in the holes intill there flush, you dont want to add turbulance to the exhaust. I wouldn't take a chance on welding because of the cast head, and driving or punching something in the holes will be a problem later you know that. Get the right size tap even if you have to drill one step higher and use a sharp "new" tap and drive the bolts in with locktite.
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