Make sure your problem is actually the injectors before going any further. Throwing performance injectors on top of an existing problem can really cause some serious issues.

The whole throwing of IDM codes is an issue. The PCM can only see the electrical side of things. Injectors almost always fail mechanically, not electrically. There's a good chance you might have something else going on.

 

What Pocket said.

 

The point is that you don't want to add more stress to parts that's can potentially fail. For example: If it's the original stock tranny and it has lots of miles there can be failures by adding 100 hp. The tranny needs to be ready for the increase in power.

In addition the stock turbo won't feed enough air for 200/80's, but the larger turbo will feed enough to the stock injectors until your ready to buy injectors. Might be a bit laggy but better than making the stock turbo scream for mercy.

Unless you have no choice - it's best to get the engine & drivetrain solid and at 100% before adding power/injectors

 

I think we pretty much determined it was injectors in this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...results-5.html

I get the p1211 ICP higher/lower than desired (engine running) code every now and again.

I'm not sure how well the truck will start this winter. It would take me quite a while to save up 7+grand for a BTS tranny and a nice turbo, thats why I wanted to get the injectors first ...and take it easy till I can get those things. I'm a pretty conservative driver and I don't put more than 5K miles on the truck a year.

 

Just wanted to make sure you are aware of the potential issues before committing to a purchase.

 

Yeah definitely...it's been a hard decision.

Just curious: how does an upgraded or high performance turbo act on a mostly stock truck?

 

It will work as good or better then you have. But it will really come in with the new injectors.

 

My plan is to get a 38r, right now i have 175cc/stock nozzle single shot injectors. When i upgrade to the 38r i wanna put a bigger set of nozzles on my injectors but im not sure what size to go with, i was thinking 80% nozzles but not sure. Do any of you know what would be a good % to put on them that would match up with the 38r and still keep ok EGT's wile towing? Thanks guys

 

JR2000SD, Based on what these guys have been saying, the 80% would suit you well. Did you start out with a stock truck? Just curious how much of a difference the 175s and tunes made from stock.

 

Yeah got it with 240,000 miles bone stock, now i have a **** ton of upgrades haha and yeah its a big difference and so much easier to drive, its like a new truck. I love the power but after you do something you always want more witch is where im at now

 

My only taste of that is fixing my exhaust and boost leaks, but that made a huge difference and felt like an upgrade, haha.

 

Jr you go to 80 over nozzles, and with the right tuning, it again will be like a new truck. The low power on up will be great.

 

I'm trying to finalize what I want for the truck...I'm not plannin on doing head studs...and I think putting an H2E in would be a waste as I just put new bellowed up pipes in and riff-raff boots...so as far as I know, that leaves me with a 38R as the only option? And 38R is good for 40 psi? and at that point, you should have head studs anyway? I've read a little about high drive pressures with the 38R...is that an issue under 40 psi?
If I wanted a reliable 400-425 HP, with good towing, would 238/80 or 200/80 with a 38R be a good choice?

 

Stinky is approaching 300K miles, so I connected the wastegate control to the 38R. It lets off at 34 PSI boost, which translates to about 34-36 PSI backpressure. If you shoot for 40 PSI boost, I don't think the head studs are the concern so much as the exhaust valve springs.


Saying that, I don't know when the head studs are a concern. It's best I qualify my comment on the head studs with "I suspect, but I don't know".


The 80% nozzle won't allow the high-capacity injector to drain at the upper RPMs. While this may subdue HP numbers, it doesn't threaten the permagrin factor.


From my experience with horsepower, those numbers don't really mean a lot on a 7.3L - because I don't drive with the tach pegged next to redline. What matters to me is the seat sink when I go to pass, or the speedo/EGT readings when towing up a grade. I get a theoretical 400 HP with AC160s and big nozzles, but the smaller nozzles would deliver the goods at the lower RPM band. Don't get hung up on HP numbers, unless you plan on racing. I have a race tune, but it has cobwebs on it by now.


For pulling, look at torque numbers - not so much at HP (unless you're comfortable with cruising uphill over 3000 RPM). The optimum max HP for pulling a grade with our engine (without melting stuff) is about 330 HP. For EGTs, the bigger nozzle size really helps. For all-around drivability and reliability, the smaller nozzle helps.

 

What Rich said. On that note I had a friend with the 238 injectors with 38R and loved it. It's all in the tuning. I like the 200 injectors also. Note, the 205 new come with 100 noozles from the factory, so that's a good bet also.