1977 F150 Ranger XLT Super Cab
#1
1977 F150 Ranger XLT Super Cab
Hey guys.....need some help/ advice! I am looking at a 1977 F150 Ranger XLT Super Cab 2wd that I'm considering buying but I have no idea what it's worth or its rarity. it has the big block 460 and C6 auto. AC, power steering/ brakes. Very straight truck, minimal rust, and all trim is there and good shape. 52000 original miles. White paint with red interior.
Can anyone give me some info....advice on what you think about this rig?????? Thanks in advance
Can anyone give me some info....advice on what you think about this rig?????? Thanks in advance
#3
Need pics to really say.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-special.html
If yours looks around the ballpark mine was in, I'd offer anywhere between $800-$1600.
Granted I have 185K miles on mine, I drove the Truck away for 800$.
Make sure you give it a thorough walk around.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-special.html
If yours looks around the ballpark mine was in, I'd offer anywhere between $800-$1600.
Granted I have 185K miles on mine, I drove the Truck away for 800$.
Make sure you give it a thorough walk around.
#4
Need pics for sure, but I think Goose might be a little low on the money for what sounds like a low mileage, minimal rust SC short bed. It actually sounds like a nice truck from your description.
Rarity? These trucks used to be everywhere, but that's not the case anymore, so if you've found a nice original example, have it checked out by a mechanic, and take lots of pictures. Post them here, and we will pick it apart, or applaud your good fortune. Then, we will be able to give you a ballpark value.
David
Rarity? These trucks used to be everywhere, but that's not the case anymore, so if you've found a nice original example, have it checked out by a mechanic, and take lots of pictures. Post them here, and we will pick it apart, or applaud your good fortune. Then, we will be able to give you a ballpark value.
David
#7
New truck buying excitement….First relax, do not show your enthusiasm to the seller! Act as if it is easy come, easy go. Here are some basics for checking out one of these rigs. Lots of mental notes to take! A written checklist is also OK to bring with you if needed.
Basic Visual Inspection: 1st CHECK THE TITLE VIN VERSUS THE DOOR WARRANTY TAG # AND OR THE DOOR STRIKER STICKER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection, this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.
Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates or the pinion seal(s).
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.
How do the bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth.. any squeaks???
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good?
Fluid Check.
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old?
Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake?
Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid.
Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled.
Note any newish parts. Any “its been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.
Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly?
Turn on the ignition system (no engine start). Turn on everything - blower motor, exterior, instrument, and interior lights, turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, etc. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Engine Start.
Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks? Knocks, thumps or rattle?
Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again.
Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and feel the truck, see how it drives. Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge reading....
CAREFULLY do a panic stop with your hands lightly on the wheel... does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.
Also take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are.
Cash talks, and BS walks or leaves without the truck, be serious about the issues and what might OR WILL need to be addressed as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you will REALLY pay in the other, flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
52,000 miles...really I bet 152,000 ck the steering box for play. If not, then why has it been setting would be my question. Setting is bad on seals, rubber lines and hoses, eng rings, gaskets, fuel tanks.
Post a pic or the Craigslist add to really get us going on it.
Basic Visual Inspection: 1st CHECK THE TITLE VIN VERSUS THE DOOR WARRANTY TAG # AND OR THE DOOR STRIKER STICKER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection, this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.
Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates or the pinion seal(s).
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.
How do the bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth.. any squeaks???
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good?
Fluid Check.
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old?
Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake?
Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid.
Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled.
Note any newish parts. Any “its been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.
Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly?
Turn on the ignition system (no engine start). Turn on everything - blower motor, exterior, instrument, and interior lights, turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, etc. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Engine Start.
Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks? Knocks, thumps or rattle?
Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again.
Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and feel the truck, see how it drives. Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge reading....
CAREFULLY do a panic stop with your hands lightly on the wheel... does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.
Also take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are.
Cash talks, and BS walks or leaves without the truck, be serious about the issues and what might OR WILL need to be addressed as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you will REALLY pay in the other, flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
52,000 miles...really I bet 152,000 ck the steering box for play. If not, then why has it been setting would be my question. Setting is bad on seals, rubber lines and hoses, eng rings, gaskets, fuel tanks.
Post a pic or the Craigslist add to really get us going on it.
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