Ignorant Question about Rebuilding Transmission
#1
Ignorant Question about Rebuilding Transmission
I'll get it out of the way right up front. I know next to nothing about cars. I recently bought a 1978 F150, with a manual transmission. Largely just to use as a farm truck, with some trips to the dump and some light hauling.
I absolutely love the truck, but the one issue I'm having (which I was aware of when I bought it) is that it slips out of 3rd gear once I get close to 3,000 RPM. I can basically work around it, but I imagine that will only work so long.
I brought it into my mechanic's shop right after I got it, and they took a look, but basically passed me off to another shop, saying they generally don't work on older trucks.
I wish I remember what exactly they said needed to be replaced on it, but I totally missed it when they went over it, largely because I know nothing about cars and all the part names sound the same to me.
Here's where I really sound dumb - all I do recall is that they said they would need to open up something in the transmission and replace a part that had likely worn down.
Sooo... the obvious thing to do here would be to just take it into the shop they recommend and let them fleece me when they overcharge me for the part and the labor. And I probably will have to do that. BUT, I figured I'd ask the experts (who don't have an incentive to screw me) first.
Is there any chance that I could do any of this myself, and if so, how? Despite everything I said here, I am fairly handy. I've just never had the occasion to try to apply that to cars. Are there any resources you'd point me to? Where would you go for parts for a 36 year old transmission?
Anyhow, thanks for taking the time to read through this mess. Feel free to mock my ignorance, though I'd sincerely appreciate any help you guys could provide!
I absolutely love the truck, but the one issue I'm having (which I was aware of when I bought it) is that it slips out of 3rd gear once I get close to 3,000 RPM. I can basically work around it, but I imagine that will only work so long.
I brought it into my mechanic's shop right after I got it, and they took a look, but basically passed me off to another shop, saying they generally don't work on older trucks.
I wish I remember what exactly they said needed to be replaced on it, but I totally missed it when they went over it, largely because I know nothing about cars and all the part names sound the same to me.
Here's where I really sound dumb - all I do recall is that they said they would need to open up something in the transmission and replace a part that had likely worn down.
Sooo... the obvious thing to do here would be to just take it into the shop they recommend and let them fleece me when they overcharge me for the part and the labor. And I probably will have to do that. BUT, I figured I'd ask the experts (who don't have an incentive to screw me) first.
Is there any chance that I could do any of this myself, and if so, how? Despite everything I said here, I am fairly handy. I've just never had the occasion to try to apply that to cars. Are there any resources you'd point me to? Where would you go for parts for a 36 year old transmission?
Anyhow, thanks for taking the time to read through this mess. Feel free to mock my ignorance, though I'd sincerely appreciate any help you guys could provide!
#2
manual trans
novak,does your tranny have a aluminum top,,,look up novak Hey tom welcome,what part of Md are you in? "wish I remember what exactly they said needed to be replaced on it, but I totally missed it when they went over it, largely because I know nothing about cars and all the part names sound the same to me" Syncronizers.
#4
manual
Yep harford county,If you pull your trans I can give you a lead on a trans man,works on large tractor trailer tranny,,very simple for him,honest and fair,my buddy takes his tractor trailers to him,for years,works out of an old pole barn,,,,look up novak to determine your trans alum head NP435
#7
Never hurts to ask a question, before it costs you money for not asking.
NP435 = aluminum top cover w/8 bolts
T-18 = cast iron top cover w/6 bolts
Warrenty Plate TRANS code: A = NP435 (N-1965 only) / F = Warner T-18 / P = F350 Warner T-19.
Warner shift lever retainer cap (8MTH-7220) threads on/off.
NP435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches, is retained to shift tower by two pins.
To remove this cap, it must be pressed down and held down while turning it to remove it.
People unaware use pliers or channel locks to remove it, which tears out one or both of the notches. Not pleasant! Now they aren't going anywhere.
Originally NP435: Reverse-down towards the seat while Warner T-18: Reverse-up towards the dash.
The reverse shift pattern was changed circa 1973, but I can't recall for which of these 4 speeds. ( I believe it the NP435)
Note: There's another 4 speed: RUG SR-OD Single Rail 4 Speed Overdrive introduced in 1978 F100/150 300/302, TRANS code B
Maybe you can link up with a MD chapter member to get a hand?
Maryland Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
NP435 = aluminum top cover w/8 bolts
T-18 = cast iron top cover w/6 bolts
Warrenty Plate TRANS code: A = NP435 (N-1965 only) / F = Warner T-18 / P = F350 Warner T-19.
Warner shift lever retainer cap (8MTH-7220) threads on/off.
NP435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches, is retained to shift tower by two pins.
To remove this cap, it must be pressed down and held down while turning it to remove it.
People unaware use pliers or channel locks to remove it, which tears out one or both of the notches. Not pleasant! Now they aren't going anywhere.
Originally NP435: Reverse-down towards the seat while Warner T-18: Reverse-up towards the dash.
The reverse shift pattern was changed circa 1973, but I can't recall for which of these 4 speeds. ( I believe it the NP435)
Note: There's another 4 speed: RUG SR-OD Single Rail 4 Speed Overdrive introduced in 1978 F100/150 300/302, TRANS code B
Maybe you can link up with a MD chapter member to get a hand?
Maryland Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
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#9
I really appreciate all of the help here. I checked it out this AM, but I'm so clueless that I'm not entirely sure I'm even looking at the right part. I see what I'm fairly certain is the transfer case - it is marked C11415 - but I would assume the transmission would be connected to that, but it's not clear to me what I'm looking at.
#11
In case it's helpful, here's a pic of what I'm talking about
#12
Here is a little different way to look at it. Keep in mind this is a automatic transmission and a NP-205 transfer case.
The big thing on the left is the transmission, the thing on the right is the transfer case. You can also see where they come apart at.
In your pic that is the back side of the transfer case we see.
On the front of the transfer case is a blue and silver tag (under some grease I bet) and that will ID what case you have. More than likely its a NP-205.
The big thing on the left is the transmission, the thing on the right is the transfer case. You can also see where they come apart at.
In your pic that is the back side of the transfer case we see.
On the front of the transfer case is a blue and silver tag (under some grease I bet) and that will ID what case you have. More than likely its a NP-205.
#15
Like redroad said, figure out whats wrong, before you taking big heavy parts off.
Does is slip out 3rd only with a load (throttle) applied? Or all the time and is it hard to get in gear?
A bad 3rd gear synchronizer (syncro) can cause that I do believe.
Yes it a NP (New Process brand) transfer case, I see the NP.
Tag is on the front and near the bottom edge of the transfer case.
Does is slip out 3rd only with a load (throttle) applied? Or all the time and is it hard to get in gear?
A bad 3rd gear synchronizer (syncro) can cause that I do believe.
Yes it a NP (New Process brand) transfer case, I see the NP.
Tag is on the front and near the bottom edge of the transfer case.