Gonna buy a Dana 60 SAS, what do I need to look for?
#31
08-27-2014, 10:16 AM
Sounds like a good plan.
BTW - why do you think your TTB needs to be rebuilt (any noise)? Maybe you are just using that term generically. Rebuilding and resealing are very different of course. I have the 44HD too, and have not had to replace the axle seals (mine's a 1982 F250). I did remove the differential and reseal it when I had things apart to replace the ball joints last year - so 30+ years with only minor leakage. It was not very difficult, but does require some specialized tools (i.e. ball joint press).
EDIT (forgot): I did replace the stock gears with 4.56 around 1990 - so it was more like 20 years with only minor leakage.
BTW - why do you think your TTB needs to be rebuilt (any noise)? Maybe you are just using that term generically. Rebuilding and resealing are very different of course. I have the 44HD too, and have not had to replace the axle seals (mine's a 1982 F250). I did remove the differential and reseal it when I had things apart to replace the ball joints last year - so 30+ years with only minor leakage. It was not very difficult, but does require some specialized tools (i.e. ball joint press).
EDIT (forgot): I did replace the stock gears with 4.56 around 1990 - so it was more like 20 years with only minor leakage.
I guess it would be a resealing, but there could be other things wrong. Bushing going out here, bearing going out there. You never know what could happen. More than likely i'm sure it's fine, and it would go back together without a hitch, but I wasn't wanting to take that risk.
#32
08-27-2014, 02:13 PM
Well, I just got it out of the shop on Monday. Took it on it's first long maiden voyage this morning to work and no hiccups. I did however notice that at 65, that thing just HOWLS like a wolf. Not sure if it's the TTB, or the tires or what, but it can get quite noisy in there. (this of course coming from a DD 2009 Fusion with plenty of sound deadening) So i'm going to notice more noise than usual, but this definitely sounded drive train related. My tires aren't overly knobby either, and the vibration that came with the howl does not seem to be tires. At least no tire vibration i've ever felt.
I guess it would be a resealing, but there could be other things wrong. Bushing going out here, bearing going out there. You never know what could happen. More than likely i'm sure it's fine, and it would go back together without a hitch, but I wasn't wanting to take that risk.
I guess it would be a resealing, but there could be other things wrong. Bushing going out here, bearing going out there. You never know what could happen. More than likely i'm sure it's fine, and it would go back together without a hitch, but I wasn't wanting to take that risk.
I ran a ttb where one of the outer u-joints was completely gone, no needles or anything, just the caps. I took a grease gun and packed it with grease, and only used the 4x4 to get out of the hilly lane I lived on, which was about 3 miles. Once I got to the main road I got out and unlocked the hubs and put it in 2wd, even if the main road had snow on it. All just to keep the bad u-joint from exploding and to try to limp through till I got the money later on to fix it. It made it through till spring.
#33
08-27-2014, 02:39 PM
The hubs are unlocked, and transfer case is in 2wd. The vibration in the floor is speed related. I don't notice it around town at 45 mph, but when I hit the freeway today, it was just screamin'!
I would normally think it's the tires, but they're no more knobby than the typical light truck tire. If I could compare them to any other tire it would be the BFG All-terrain T/A's. Which I had on another truck before. When I bought it at the dealership, I told them to mount them before I took the truck home, and the guy was like, "oh they're gonna be loud, just so you know".
Started driving it, noticed no difference than light truck tires. The All-terrain T/A's will probably be going on there next anyway.
#34
08-27-2014, 06:15 PM
#35
08-28-2014, 08:54 AM
Can you pin point what is whining? The tires would be all around and only increase with speed and not be that much of a whine as it is a growl(i have 36" with about three inch lugs on the outside)
I've accidentally left my hubs locked before and noticed a whine before.
I've accidentally left my hubs locked before and noticed a whine before.
I put the windows down yesterday to listen to the tires, and they are certainly not the problem. I've checked the hubs and they're in the "FREE" spot.
The vibration can be heard in the cab, and barely felt in the floor, so that tells me its drive-train related. Can't feel it in the wheel necessarily, but in the floor for sure.
#36
08-28-2014, 09:12 AM
Posting Guru
Also check your U-joints. I didn't see in a previous post if you did that or not. Look for signs of dry bearings.
I assume the tires where balanced properly. You could also try rotating the back tires to the front to see if that changes the noise/vibration. It is not unheard of to get new tires with flat spots (or other defects).
I assume the tires where balanced properly. You could also try rotating the back tires to the front to see if that changes the noise/vibration. It is not unheard of to get new tires with flat spots (or other defects).
#37
08-28-2014, 09:23 AM
Logistics Pro
F-250s aren't going to be as smooth as a Mercedes sedan, but you shouldn't feel any particularly bad vibrations. What you're describing certainly sounds tire or driveline related.
As you are describing the noise at least, that doesn't sound like any driveline issues I've ever had, so I'd guess tire tread on that one. Those tires don't look particularly aggressive, but it's all in the harmonics. Less aggressive older tire designs were a lot louder than more aggressive computer-designed treads. Does the noise change significantly as you change road surfaces? Tread noise is usually different on asphalt than it is on concrete, and should go away pretty much completely on gravel.
The vibration seems more likely to be driveline, but I wouldn't completely rule out tire balance or even tread either. First thing I'd check (because it's pretty easy) is to verify that the transfer case really is going into 2WD and the hubs really are unlocking. If either isn't that will likely lead to some vibration.
With the truck parked try turning the front driveshaft by hand. If it won't turn either both hubs are not unlocking or else the transfer case isn't going into 2WD.
Assuming it turns, look to see if both front axle shafts are turning. You can look at the U-joint through the steering knuckle. At least one of them will be turning. If one doesn't, try to turn that U-joint by hand. It's probably OK if one side doesn't turn when you turn the driveshaft, but if it won't turn at all then that hub isn't unlocking.
If it's not either of those I'd look at the rear driveshaft and/or tire balance next. Wiggle the rear driveshaft at the U-joints. You shouldn't see ANY slop in the U-joints. This isn't a definitive test, I have had a U-joint that was obviously bad when I disassembled it, but that I couldn't detect slop in while in the vehicle. But it's still worth doing. Also look for any signs of damage to the driveshaft, any dents or scrapes that could indicate it's been hit and possibly bent. Also look for any signs that balance weights came off the driveshaft.
To check tires you could try rotating them to see if the vibration changes. For instance, if you feel it in the steering wheel after rotating them then it's likely coming from a tire you moved to the front.
That would be where I would start.
As you are describing the noise at least, that doesn't sound like any driveline issues I've ever had, so I'd guess tire tread on that one. Those tires don't look particularly aggressive, but it's all in the harmonics. Less aggressive older tire designs were a lot louder than more aggressive computer-designed treads. Does the noise change significantly as you change road surfaces? Tread noise is usually different on asphalt than it is on concrete, and should go away pretty much completely on gravel.
The vibration seems more likely to be driveline, but I wouldn't completely rule out tire balance or even tread either. First thing I'd check (because it's pretty easy) is to verify that the transfer case really is going into 2WD and the hubs really are unlocking. If either isn't that will likely lead to some vibration.
With the truck parked try turning the front driveshaft by hand. If it won't turn either both hubs are not unlocking or else the transfer case isn't going into 2WD.
Assuming it turns, look to see if both front axle shafts are turning. You can look at the U-joint through the steering knuckle. At least one of them will be turning. If one doesn't, try to turn that U-joint by hand. It's probably OK if one side doesn't turn when you turn the driveshaft, but if it won't turn at all then that hub isn't unlocking.
If it's not either of those I'd look at the rear driveshaft and/or tire balance next. Wiggle the rear driveshaft at the U-joints. You shouldn't see ANY slop in the U-joints. This isn't a definitive test, I have had a U-joint that was obviously bad when I disassembled it, but that I couldn't detect slop in while in the vehicle. But it's still worth doing. Also look for any signs of damage to the driveshaft, any dents or scrapes that could indicate it's been hit and possibly bent. Also look for any signs that balance weights came off the driveshaft.
To check tires you could try rotating them to see if the vibration changes. For instance, if you feel it in the steering wheel after rotating them then it's likely coming from a tire you moved to the front.
That would be where I would start.
#38
08-28-2014, 11:03 AM
Also check your U-joints. I didn't see in a previous post if you did that or not. Look for signs of dry bearings.
I assume the tires where balanced properly. You could also try rotating the back tires to the front to see if that changes the noise/vibration. It is not unheard of to get new tires with flat spots (or other defects).
I assume the tires where balanced properly. You could also try rotating the back tires to the front to see if that changes the noise/vibration. It is not unheard of to get new tires with flat spots (or other defects).
I noticed while my truck was on the lift, my passenger side rear tire's tread had a slice in some of the tread, and it's beginning to get a little cracked and dry rotted, but that wouldn't cause this vibration in the floor.
#39
08-28-2014, 11:25 AM
F-250s aren't going to be as smooth as a Mercedes sedan, but you shouldn't feel any particularly bad vibrations. What you're describing certainly sounds tire or driveline related.
As you are describing the noise at least, that doesn't sound like any driveline issues I've ever had, so I'd guess tire tread on that one. Those tires don't look particularly aggressive, but it's all in the harmonics. Less aggressive older tire designs were a lot louder than more aggressive computer-designed treads. Does the noise change significantly as you change road surfaces? Tread noise is usually different on asphalt than it is on concrete, and should go away pretty much completely on gravel.
The vibration seems more likely to be driveline, but I wouldn't completely rule out tire balance or even tread either. First thing I'd check (because it's pretty easy) is to verify that the transfer case really is going into 2WD and the hubs really are unlocking. If either isn't that will likely lead to some vibration.
With the truck parked try turning the front driveshaft by hand. If it won't turn either both hubs are not unlocking or else the transfer case isn't going into 2WD.
Assuming it turns, look to see if both front axle shafts are turning. You can look at the U-joint through the steering knuckle. At least one of them will be turning. If one doesn't, try to turn that U-joint by hand. It's probably OK if one side doesn't turn when you turn the driveshaft, but if it won't turn at all then that hub isn't unlocking.
If it's not either of those I'd look at the rear driveshaft and/or tire balance next. Wiggle the rear driveshaft at the U-joints. You shouldn't see ANY slop in the U-joints. This isn't a definitive test, I have had a U-joint that was obviously bad when I disassembled it, but that I couldn't detect slop in while in the vehicle. But it's still worth doing. Also look for any signs of damage to the driveshaft, any dents or scrapes that could indicate it's been hit and possibly bent. Also look for any signs that balance weights came off the driveshaft.
To check tires you could try rotating them to see if the vibration changes. For instance, if you feel it in the steering wheel after rotating them then it's likely coming from a tire you moved to the front.
That would be where I would start.
As you are describing the noise at least, that doesn't sound like any driveline issues I've ever had, so I'd guess tire tread on that one. Those tires don't look particularly aggressive, but it's all in the harmonics. Less aggressive older tire designs were a lot louder than more aggressive computer-designed treads. Does the noise change significantly as you change road surfaces? Tread noise is usually different on asphalt than it is on concrete, and should go away pretty much completely on gravel.
The vibration seems more likely to be driveline, but I wouldn't completely rule out tire balance or even tread either. First thing I'd check (because it's pretty easy) is to verify that the transfer case really is going into 2WD and the hubs really are unlocking. If either isn't that will likely lead to some vibration.
With the truck parked try turning the front driveshaft by hand. If it won't turn either both hubs are not unlocking or else the transfer case isn't going into 2WD.
Assuming it turns, look to see if both front axle shafts are turning. You can look at the U-joint through the steering knuckle. At least one of them will be turning. If one doesn't, try to turn that U-joint by hand. It's probably OK if one side doesn't turn when you turn the driveshaft, but if it won't turn at all then that hub isn't unlocking.
If it's not either of those I'd look at the rear driveshaft and/or tire balance next. Wiggle the rear driveshaft at the U-joints. You shouldn't see ANY slop in the U-joints. This isn't a definitive test, I have had a U-joint that was obviously bad when I disassembled it, but that I couldn't detect slop in while in the vehicle. But it's still worth doing. Also look for any signs of damage to the driveshaft, any dents or scrapes that could indicate it's been hit and possibly bent. Also look for any signs that balance weights came off the driveshaft.
To check tires you could try rotating them to see if the vibration changes. For instance, if you feel it in the steering wheel after rotating them then it's likely coming from a tire you moved to the front.
That would be where I would start.
There's also two different speeds where I hear a very deep low vibration. Can't feel it, but I can hear it. One happens around 15 mph, and the other happens right at 45 mph. I hear it when i'm accelerating past those speeds, and I hear it when i'm decelerating. I'm gonna see about the driveshaft, because I bet that's what's causing that vibration. It may be causing the one at freeway speeds as well.
I noticed you're in Roseville, i'm not too far from ya(just south of Eagan). Maybe you'd want to go on a test drive so you can see what i'm talking about?
#41
08-28-2014, 02:20 PM
Logistics Pro
No, the noise is related to speed. Road surface does not change the vibration.
There's also two different speeds where I hear a very deep low vibration. Can't feel it, but I can hear it. One happens around 15 mph, and the other happens right at 45 mph. I hear it when i'm accelerating past those speeds, and I hear it when i'm decelerating. I'm gonna see about the driveshaft, because I bet that's what's causing that vibration. It may be causing the one at freeway speeds as well.
There's also two different speeds where I hear a very deep low vibration. Can't feel it, but I can hear it. One happens around 15 mph, and the other happens right at 45 mph. I hear it when i'm accelerating past those speeds, and I hear it when i'm decelerating. I'm gonna see about the driveshaft, because I bet that's what's causing that vibration. It may be causing the one at freeway speeds as well.
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