Bentley...
It has 184,000 miles. Just found a receipt for a fuel pump and filter replaced at 97,000 in 2007.
I plan on doing whatever it takes to make it reliable. It does have a miss... but plugs and coils were just replaced. My sister gave me all the receipts as she always took it to the same place for service. I don't know what brands were used though.

Tofan...
I like your list. I'll do most of it but I just plugged in the factory radio for now. I want a Bluetooth setup so I can talk while driving but I don't need anything fancy as it will probably get about 4,000 miles a year on it.

Romanova...
I put the factory radio in because I pulled the dash apart to get this...



Is anyone able to translate this for me?

 

Ranaget...
I'll use your sequence as a plan B.
If I read correctly, after punching in the 5 digit code, you follow it with the 3/4 key. Am I correct?
I also am going to buy new keys and program them now since I have 2 current keys. Once I lose one, I'm out of luck cause I need 2 to be able to add more.

..
On a new note... I haven't had much luck finding new leaf springs. I don't want anything special. Just factory height and my trailer will be about 6K to 7K lbs and I can adjust tongue weight as I can position the jeep to achieve ( I'm guessing 300 - 400 lbs ). Load some gear in the back and I cat see putting more than 700 lbs in the rear.

Anyway, thanks for the help everyone. You are making some of this a lot easier and I really appreciate it.

P.S. I did install the passenger door actuator. Took about 20 minutes or so. Drivers door was like 1 1/2 hours but I was reading the thread and learning. I assume the rest will be easy like today.
RockAuto sent out the rest of my parts today. So I'll have the rest of those soon and can get that marked off the list.

I'm working mostly from back to front. Once I get my new hitch, I'll drop the tank then clean and paint the tank skid and frame... then put the hitch and tank on. When I get the springs and rear cover, I'll pull the axle, clean and paint it as well as the frame and shackle pieces along the frame. Then new U-joints on the DS and just keep working my way to the front.

Thanks again and God bless
Dan

 

enter the 5 digit code and driver door unlocks
push 3/4 within a few seconds and all doors unlock
push 7/8 and 9/0 at the same time and all doors lock

I don't think those numbers are your door code.
As you enter the numbers it will suddenly unlock the driver door, and then you know that the last 5 numbers entered are the code, may not necessarily be the master code as you can program in one of your own. It surprised me when it unlocked that I actually lost my exact place and had to back up a bit!

 

I'll copy and print your sheet... then scratch it off as I try it.
If the code isn't the master, then I'll just continue down the list.
Thanks for a way to get it figured out no matter what. Maybe not quick... but who's in a hurry.

The drawback is that I can sit beside any excursion and start punching numbers and will eventually unlock the doors.

 

I guess this is the rear cover...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1999-2011-Ford-F-250-F-350-Super-Duty-ALUMINUM-REAR-DIFF-COVER-OEM-Ford-/230993515797?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c8495515&vxp=mtr

 

You might find it a little cheaper at one of the dealers mentioned above online parts listings.

Also that 6 to 7k jeep and trailer should have at least 10% tongue weight, keeps sway at bay.

 

With that number string my door code was only 5 lines deep!

 

Diff cover through Horizon Ford. Link

The hardware is mentioned in the link as well, basically need 1/2" longer and washers. Also going to need RTV black or a lube locker gasket. I have not used the gaskets but some of the members here have recommended them. OE hardware is stupid expensive.

Guzzles page
Jason's page

Here is from when I did mine:

 

Thanks for the dealer link.. I looked there for the springs but didn't have much time to look through it. I need the cover and springs for the next phase. I'm a diehard fan of Neapco U-joints, so I need to get some of those ready for the DS.

After browsing through Jason's page... there was a section about battery replacement on the keypad. I saw wires running up close to where mine is located.

Is ours powered by the truck or a separate battery?

 

Alright, I did it.

Tonight I bought the diff cover, 4 new springs and bump stops. ( front are missing the rubber, rears aren't far behind )
Bought all DS U-joints and centering ball. cost about $1400.

I'll be busy for a while.

 

Must..........Post..........Pics.........Of....... ...Work.........!!!!!!!

 

for the "easy" way to get your door code

lay down on the drivers floorboard and look up under the dash. You are looking for a small black (sometimes grey) box that is bolted with 2 bolts to the area where the trans tunnel meets the firewall. it will have 3 plugs connected to it (a green, a grey and I can't remember the last color).

this box will have a white sticker on it with a 5 digit code. that 5 digit code is your door keypad Master code. The box itself is called the VSM. Vehicle Security Module. It only exists on 2002-2005 models. 2000 to 2001 models have a BCM instead. Does the same thing for the most part.

 

Just adding a long overdue update... and a couple questions.

So far, I have replaced all the door lock actuators.
I replaced the hitch.
Replaced rear springs and bumpstops.
Replaced the rear diff cover and added a Felpro gasket. Changed fluid.
Had the exhaust replaced from the cat back.
Sand blasted and repainted front and rear driveshafts, New U-joints and front centering ball
Changed fluid in transfer case.
Had trans rebuilt with a few mods. It shifted too hard so they backed it down to a factory shift.
New tires all around
Bought a weight distribution hitch. ( to be setup this week )

I didn't take many pics but here's what I have...












Questions I have...
The front locking hubs don't turn. I assumed the hubs were either locked or unlocked. I read a linked write-up on some auto locking hubs and how to clean and get functioning. I didn't thing I had auto hubs... but sure enough mine look the same as the ones in the write-up. So, I did some more investigating... and I see the vacuum line that actuates the auto part.
So, I have auto hubs... The writing has worn off the hub so what positions mean what on these hubs?
Any description, as to how they function, would help also.

Lastly, list of things still to complete...

Replace front springs and bumpstops ( already sitting in the garage )
Replace front axle seals ( PITA job I'm sure )
Replace vacuum seal between unit bearing and steer knuckle ( when axles are out )
Rebuild hubs
Replace vacuum lines going to steer knuckles ( definitely rotted out )
Take to shop to read upcoming CEL code as to what cylinder miss and why.
Also have them program new keys ( I have 2 keys but cannot do the learn thing ) I believe my second key is a clone of the only original key I have.
I'll have them tell me the door unlock code while I'm there too.
Change coolant, hoses and thermostat.
Find the oil leak and fix.

Last is a full detail once everything is finished.

Maybe new shocks later as these feel too soft. ( either worn out or shocks wern't valved correctly for the vehicle weight )


Last for your viewing pleasure. What the Excursion is for...





Thanks for all the help so far FTE.

Dan

 

Musta missed this thread the first time around. Welcome to the Ex family.

As Tom said, more capacity doesn't equate to lower temps.

No spark plug wires on any Ford modular engine with a distributorless ignition system. At least not in the traditional sense. Not since Coil On Plugs started being used.

Stewart

 

On your hubs, righty-tighty and lefty-loosey.

In other words, turn them to the right to engage, and to the left to disengage. OR clockwise to engage and counter-clockwise to disengage.

Nice work so far, and welcome to the club!