Hello everyone, I appreciate and respect the knowledge I've read here on this website. My name is Ryan ( Detroit, Michigan ) I'm new to owning a classic truck and have just picked up a 1965 Ford F-250 with a 429 bb v8 under the hood.

Recently I've experienced some backfire when I ref the engine in park. I've just recently performed a tune-up,on the engine replacing wires and plugs. However I'd like to confirm the proper firing order and placement of the wires.

Can anybody help me out please? I'd appreciate the feed back.

 

Hi and welcome!

This should answer your question:



For routing the wires it's always been recommended to route 7 and 8 away from each other so there's no risk of crossfire between them since they're next to each other in the firing order. I'm not sure how relevant this advice is these days with higher quality wires, but it can't hurt. Also, try running the engine at night in a totally dark place and looking for any flashes of light under the hood from arcing.

 

thanks tigerdan, I'll observe the wiring graph, make corrections if needed then fire the engine up and listen...

Now, the exhaust piping is removed from the muffler back to the tailpipe, will this have any pull with the backfiring I'm experiencing ? I personally don't think so because it wasn't an issue before...however, I could be wrong.

 

if the diagram above is the correct wiring order for my FORD 429 BB V8 , then the wiring under my hood now doesn't even come close to that order...



I placed the number ( 3) on the plug I'm assuming is the third wire...then working my way counter clockwise around the carburetor.

 

I think you are using a firing order of 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 that is for 351C, 351W, 351M and 400's.
Your #3 looks like it goes to #5.
You need 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 like Tiger Dan says.
Cheers

 

The diagrams show the wiring on distributor cap as it came from the factory. If someone has removed/replaced the distributor at point in time they could have reset it in some other location. Number 1 can be wherever you set it and then it has to follow the firing order counter-clockwise around the cap from there. It's usually best to set it according to the original locations in the diagram to avoid problems like this, but unless you want to pull the distributor and reset it to the proper location, you just have to deal with it as it is. Locate your number 1 cylinder and go from there.

 

The removal of the distributor cap defiantly came to my mind several times and it's not a far fetched assumption conclusion considering whom I purchased the truck from.

Looks as if my best bet is to just pull the wires and follow the diagram above as I replace the wires back onto the engine...Agreed?

I really appreciate the advice and everyone's help/knowledge on this forum. Thank you again and I'll update you all in a few.

 

No, don't do that. I'm not talking about removing the distributor cap, I'm talking about removing the whole distributor and re-timing it. If the distributor has been removed at some point in the past and not reinstalled correctly and you just pull the wires off and put them back on in the order in the diagram, it will run really badly if it runs at all.

Looking at the pic you posted it does look to me as if that's what has been done. I can't quite see the paths of all the wires but it looks as if number one is over to the passenger side closest to the thermostat housing, not at all where it's supposed to be.

 

IMO, Before pulling wires and or distributor need to first establish TDC using #1 cyl.. There are few ways to determine TDC, once established leave the engine in that position then check the position of the rotor to the #1 pin in the distributer cap to the timing mark on the damper, they need to be in sync. This will provide an indication if the ign. is off, at this point one can pull the distributor and adjust accordingly.

 

That didn't come out right on my part.... What I meant was ...I was going to wire the carburetor as it shows in the diagram you've posted .

I'm not removing the distributor cap or anything else, just the wires.

 

Wire the carburetor?

What I'm saying is that, from the picture you've posted the distributor appears to have been installed incorrectly and the wires re-routed on the cap to allow this. If you simply move the wires to the correct locations on the distributor cap as shown in the diagram, I'd be very surprised if it will run at all. Go ahead and try it if you want, but make note of exactly where the wires are right now so that you can put them back to their current location if it doesn't work. But maybe it's correct and only a couple of wires are reversed, and putting them all back in the locations on the diagram will solve the problem.

Can you tell if it's hitting on all 8 cylinders? Does it seem to have a miss as well as the backfire?

 

Wire the carburetor? Even I know you paint a carburetor.

 

Here is an easy way to check. Find your #1 plug wire and make sure it goes to #1 on the distributor (the dizzy) see what wire is the next going counter clockwise, it should be #5 then the next wire will go to #4 and follow the firing order the rest if the way around. 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 make sure the firing order goes to the correct cylinders.
Now if that is incorrect switch the wires at the dizzy for the correct firing order.
Now start your engine. If it runs good just check your timing with a light to get it right on.
If your engine doesn't start and balks or backfires you know one thing that the firing order is correct. Now you have to time the dizzy with the TDC because the dizzy is not in the correct position. Also make sure the condenser has a tight connection and you connected the wire from the dizzy to the coil is connected right.

The reason you should do it this way first is if it was running good before you tuned it up and did not remove the dizzy then only your firing order is incorrect or your dwell is way off. Check with a dwell meter. Also grab the rotor and see if there is any side to side play in the top bushing. If it is loose you need to get a rebuilt dizzy. If that's OK then proceed to the next step.

Now is the time to do what the other FTE members said to do with moving your crank around to TDC and insure #1 is also at TDC.

Quote: daveengelson
IMO, Before pulling wires and or distributor need to first establish TDC using #1 cyl.. There are few ways to determine TDC, once established leave the engine in that position then check the position of the rotor to the #1 pin in the distributor cap to the timing mark on the damper, they need to be in sync. This will provide an indication if the ign. is off, at this point one can pull the distributor and adjust accordingly.

If your rotor doesn't point to #1 then you have to remove the dizzy and reinsert it moving the rotor so it picks up a different gear and slides down into place. Once that's done you can rotate the dizzy around. Watch the points as you rotate the dizzy and when they close that should be close to TDC that's where the points fire. Tighten the dizzy bolt so you can still turn by hand when you put the timing light on it. Dial it in with the light at what ever setting your 429 calls for if your not sure try 10 degrees for a starter.
Tighten the dizzy bolt and take it for a drive.

Hope that helps,
Cheers